Indo Gold Torch Coral

Indo Gold Torch Coral

Torch

Overview

Indo Gold Torch Coral features long, gold-tipped tentacles that sway in the current. Euphyllia glabrescens is a large-polyp stony coral with branching heads, preferring moderate light and moderate, indirect flow. It is photosynthetic through symbiotic algae but accepts small meaty foods, which can support growth and color. Place it where tentacles have room and keep several inches from other corals to avoid stings.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Moderate
Flow Moderate, indirect
Placement Mid–Low
Temperament Aggressive (6–10 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 420–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, finely chopped marine meats (krill, shrimp), zooplankton, microplankton, LPS-targeted coral foods

Care & Placement

Indo Gold Torch Coral (Euphyllia glabrescens) thrives under stable, moderate conditions with careful handling. Provide moderate light at roughly 100–200 PAR; acclimate from lower light over 1–2 weeks to avoid bleaching. Aim for indirect, moderate flow that gently sways tentacles without folding or whipping, which can cause tissue damage; this also keeps detritus from settling. Feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, enriched brine, finely chopped seafood) or fine particulate coral foods; target-feed lightly to avoid overfeeding. Maintain temp 76–79°F, salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), pH 8.0–8.4, calcium 420–460 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH (stable), magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits and use a calibrated refractometer; this coral is sensitive to rapid swings, especially in alkalinity and salinity, and to contaminants like copper.Place mid to lower in the tank—on stable rock or sand with a frag rack stand—under indirect flow. Leave 6–8 inches (or more) from neighbors; torches have long, potent sweepers, especially at night, and can sting other Euphyllia and LPS. Acclimate by temperature matching, drip acclimating salinity, and using a coral dip; handle by the skeleton/plug, not the flesh. Common issues: bleaching (too much light too fast), recession (excess flow or instability), and brown jelly disease; if BJD appears, siphon, iodine dip, and increase flow while improving stability. Keep nutrients non-zero, avoid ULNS systems, and prioritize consistency over chasing numbers.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Indo Gold Torch Coral

  • My Indo Gold Torch Coral is losing its gold tone. How do I keep the color?
    Color shift often ties to spectrum and nutrients. Aim for 200–300 PAR with strong blue/violet (420–460 nm) and modest white. Keep nitrate 5–15 ppm and phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm; starving the coral can wash out pigment. Stable alkalinity/calcium/magnesium helps. Regular, small feedings and consistent trace replenishment (iodine, manganese) support fluorescence. Avoid sudden light changes; acclimate over 1–2 weeks.
  • How aggressive is Euphyllia glabrescens toward other LPS, including other Euphyllia?
    Torches are notably stingy and can extend long sweepers at night. They may burn hammers and frogspawn despite being related. Leave 6–10 inches of space down-current. If mixing torches, observe for allelopathic stress (retracted polyps, mucus). Activated carbon, stable flow, and clear spacing lines reduce chemical and physical warfare. Avoid direct contact with fleshy LPS and most zoas.
  • What’s the best response to early brown jelly on a single head?
    Act fast. Isolate and cut the infected branch at least 0.5–1 inch into healthy skeleton. Rinse debris in tank water, then dip the frag and mother colony separately (iodine or antibacterial coral dip). Increase random flow to prevent stagnation and siphon any jelly promptly. Run fresh carbon and boost export. Recheck temperature and alkalinity swings—the usual triggers.
  • How do I tune flow for long, torchy extension without causing recession?
    Aim for moderate, multidirectional flow that sways the tentacles in a steady rhythm. Signs of too much: tentacles pulled tight, tissue receding at the rim, exposed skeleton. Too little: detritus settling in the heads, film algae, shortened extension. Use gyres or alternating pumps to avoid laminar blasts. Keep microbubbles and sandstorms off the polyps. Stable flow beats frequent reprogramming.