Wild individuals are carnivorous zooplankton feeders, picking prey from the water column while suspended above the reef. In the aquarium, offer a rotation of small meaty items such as enriched brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, copepods, cyclops, and finely chopped krill or other marine seafood, supplemented with quality preparations formulated for marine carnivores.
Feed small portions once or twice daily, with two feedings preferred to match the near-constant grazing behavior of a planktivore. Introducing food into the current so it drifts through the fish's hovering area produces the most reliable response. Newly acquired specimens that hesitate to accept prepared items can often be coaxed into feeding with live, enriched adult brine shrimp before transitioning to frozen and prepared foods.
This species is reef-safe and shows no interest in nipping corals or damaging sessile invertebrates. It generally coexists with ornamental shrimp, crabs, hermit crabs, cleaner shrimp, and snails, though very small planktonic crustaceans fall within its natural prey range and may be consumed. Because it will not disturb corals or clams, it makes a natural choice for mixed reef displays where its midwater cruising adds movement above the rockwork.
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FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
About the Scissortail Dartfish
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What aquarium layout best suits a Scissortail Dartfish?
Use a securely covered aquarium of at least 30 gallons with open midwater swimming room, sand or fine substrate, and stable rockwork containing several caves and crevices. Mature conditions, moderate flow, and quiet tankmates help it settle and hover in the open. -
Should it be kept singly, as a pair, or in a group?
A single fish or an established pair is the safest choice, since wild adults form monogamous pairs and captive conspecifics may chase and injure subordinates. Groups succeed only when all individuals are added together to a large tank with multiple retreats. -
Why is a tight lid so important for this species?
The Scissortail Dartfish is easily startled and a strong jumper, so a tightly fitted lid or mesh screen prevents it from launching out of the aquarium.