In the wild this carnivore picks zooplankton from the water column and takes other benthic invertebrates from the rubble. Captive diets should mirror that with varied, finely sized meaty items: mysis shrimp, chopped shrimp, clam, squid, fish flesh, krill, Artemia, Cyclops, and live copepods. Small particle size matters, as the fish is built to snap up individual planktonic prey rather than tear at large pieces.
Feed two to three times daily. Multiple daily feedings are particularly important for a newly introduced fish, which has little reserve to spare after shipping. Transport and acclimation can be a sensitive period, and a fresh specimen may need a day or two before it begins eating, so watch closely to confirm active feeding and inspect the mouth for any transport damage before assuming the fish has settled.
Choose tankmates with equally mild dispositions. Aggressive dottybacks, pugnacious damsels, and similar bullies will harass this wrasse and can keep it from feeding, which is the fastest route to trouble with a fish that needs several meals a day. It is reef safe: no damage to corals or sessile invertebrates is reported, and it presents no identified predation risk to ornamental shrimp, crabs, snails, clams, or small fishes, making it a straightforward addition to a mixed reef.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
About the Princess Parrotfish
-
Is Princess Parrotfish the correct name for this species?
No. Paracheilinus filamentosus is a flasher wrasse, commonly called the Filamentous Flasher Wrasse, and it is not a parrotfish. -
How large an aquarium does an adult need, and does it require a lid?
Plan on at least 50 gallons with abundant rock crevices and open swimming room. A tightly secured lid is necessary because a frightened individual can jump from an uncovered tank. -
Can this wrasse be kept in a reef aquarium with invertebrates?
Yes. It is considered reef safe, with no reported damage to corals or sessile invertebrates and no identified threat to ornamental shrimp, crabs, snails, or clams.