How do I keep the “alien eye” colors from fading on Alien Eye Favia Coral?

Prioritize spectrum and nutrients. Moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue bias preserves neon centers and contrasting rims; very high PAR can wash them out. Keep alk 8–9 dKH, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10. Target feed small meaty foods weekly to deepen pigments. Avoid chronic shading or dirty film on tissue. Color often rebounds over 2–6 weeks once conditions stabilize.

How aggressive are the sweepers, and how much space should I give it?

At night, Alien Eye Favia can throw 1–3 inch sweepers, occasionally longer in higher flow or after heavy feeding. Plan for at least 3–4 inches of buffer from fleshy LPS and acans; more if you run strong, laminar flow. If neighbors show sting marks, rotate flow to be more random, reduce heavy feeding near lights-out, and increase spacing. Daytime tentacles are much shorter.

What growth pattern should I expect, and how should I frag it safely?

Favia favus will encrust first, then develop a low dome with ridges and shared walls. Place on rock with open perimeter for future spread; avoid tight crevices that trap detritus. For frags, cut in the valleys between mouths using a diamond saw or sharp bone cutters; avoid splitting a corallite. Dip in iodine, moderate flow for healing, and stable alk/calcium. New growth usually skins over within 1–3 weeks.

Why is tissue receding from the base even though parameters look fine?

Base recession often stems from detritus accumulation and low microflow under the rim. Increase random flow to the collar, turkey-baste weekly, and check for vermetid snails or hydroids irritating tissue. You can halt creep by sealing the edge with a thin line of gel superglue after an iodine dip. Verify steady alkalinity (no daily swings) and avoid sand abrasion along the lower edge.

TSA Alien Eye Favia Coral

Favia LPS

Overview

Alien Eye Favia Coral shows bright neon centers (“eyes”) within polygonal corallites bounded by thick ridges. Favia favus is a large-polyp stony, dome-forming coral; provide moderate light and moderate, indirect water flow. It is photosynthetic with symbiotic algae but benefits from occasional small meaty foods at night, which can support faster growth and richer color. Place on stable rock with space around it, as sweeper tentacles extend after dark and can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Easy

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Semi-aggressive (4–6 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood, chopped krill, zooplankton, microplankton, marine snow, coral-specific powdered foods (e.g., Reef-Roids), small LPS pellet foods

Care & Placement

Alien Eye Favia Coral (Favia favus) thrives with stable, moderate conditions and thoughtful placement. Provide moderate lighting (PAR ~80–150); start low and increase over 2–3 weeks to prevent bleaching. Use gentle to moderate, indirect flow to keep detritus off the polyps without lifting tissue. Target feed 1–2 times weekly after lights out with small meaty foods (mysis, roe, finely chopped shrimp) or high-quality coral foods; this supports growth and coloration, especially in lower light. Keep temperature 75–78°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, and phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly, use a refractometer, and maintain top-off to avoid salinity swings. This species dislikes rapid changes in alkalinity or salinity.Place low to mid in the tank on stable rock with space to grow. Leave 3–6 inches from neighbors; at night it can extend stinging sweepers 2–3 inches. Compatible with peaceful fish and inverts; avoid nippers like some angels and butterflies. Drip acclimate 30–45 minutes and dip to remove pests. Common issues: recession from low nutrients, alkalinity swings, or excessive flow; bleaching from sudden light increases or ultra-clean water; brown jelly can appear after damage—siphon, iodine dip, and increase flow. If tissue recedes, stabilize parameters, lower light slightly, and resume gentle feeding to aid recovery.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Alien Eye Favia Coral

How do I keep the “alien eye” colors from fading on Alien Eye Favia Coral?

Prioritize spectrum and nutrients. Moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue bias preserves neon centers and contrasting rims; very high PAR can wash them out. Keep alk 8–9 dKH, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10. Target feed small meaty foods weekly to deepen pigments. Avoid chronic shading or dirty film on tissue. Color often rebounds over 2–6 weeks once conditions stabilize.
How aggressive are the sweepers, and how much space should I give it?

At night, Alien Eye Favia can throw 1–3 inch sweepers, occasionally longer in higher flow or after heavy feeding. Plan for at least 3–4 inches of buffer from fleshy LPS and acans; more if you run strong, laminar flow. If neighbors show sting marks, rotate flow to be more random, reduce heavy feeding near lights-out, and increase spacing. Daytime tentacles are much shorter.
What growth pattern should I expect, and how should I frag it safely?

Favia favus will encrust first, then develop a low dome with ridges and shared walls. Place on rock with open perimeter for future spread; avoid tight crevices that trap detritus. For frags, cut in the valleys between mouths using a diamond saw or sharp bone cutters; avoid splitting a corallite. Dip in iodine, moderate flow for healing, and stable alk/calcium. New growth usually skins over within 1–3 weeks.
Why is tissue receding from the base even though parameters look fine?

Base recession often stems from detritus accumulation and low microflow under the rim. Increase random flow to the collar, turkey-baste weekly, and check for vermetid snails or hydroids irritating tissue. You can halt creep by sealing the edge with a thin line of gel superglue after an iodine dip. Verify steady alkalinity (no daily swings) and avoid sand abrasion along the lower edge.

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