My Sweet Treat Hammer’s tips are fading under LEDs. How can I keep the bi-color look vivid?

Aim for moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue spectrum, but acclimate slowly using reduced intensity or shorter photoperiod over 2–3 weeks. Keep nutrients non-zero (nitrate ~5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm); ultra-low levels mute color. Avoid blasting flow at the polyp; gentle, randomized movement helps tentacles fully extend, which supports pigmentation. Stability in alkalinity and temperature prevents tip paling.

Is Fimbriaphyllia paraancora safe to frag, and what’s the best method?

Yes—this species is branching. Cut only the bare skeleton between heads using a band saw or bone cutters; keep 1–2 cm from any flesh. Rinse in tank water, then dip (iodine-based or coral-safe antiseptic). Mount frags so the branch is supported to avoid wobble. Moderate flow prevents slime buildup, and a small meaty feed after a day or two can speed recovery.

How far can its sweepers reach, and which neighbors should I avoid?

Sweepers often extend 7–15 cm at night, occasionally longer on robust colonies. Keep ample space and avoid close proximity to torches (F. glabrescens), which frequently win standoffs. Frogspawn and other hammers may still sting or carry allelopathic effects, so don’t intermix heads. Use flow that prevents tentacle contact with rocks or other corals but doesn’t whip the tissue.

I’m seeing rapid tissue loss with brown slime on one head—what’s the plan?

Likely brown jelly. Immediately siphon the slime, remove the colony, and frag off affected heads well into healthy skeleton. Dip remaining pieces (iodine/chlorhexidine-based coral dip) and increase indirect flow to the base to deter stagnation. Maintain clean, stable parameters and moderate light during recovery. Disinfect tools, run fresh carbon, and watch nearby LPS for secondary signs.

Sweet Treat Hammer Coral

Euphyllia Hammers

Overview

Sweet Treat Hammer Coral shows chunky hammer-shaped tentacle tips in branching heads. Fimbriaphyllia paraancora is a large-polyp stony coral with a branching structure; it prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, indirect flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for most nutrition but accepts small meaty foods, which can boost growth and polyp inflation and help maintain color. Place with ample space for long sweeper tentacles and avoid contact with other corals to prevent stings.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Mid–Low

Temperament Semi-aggressive (6–8 inches spacing for sweeper tentacles)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (shrimp, clam), copepods, zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods, marine snow

Care & Placement

Sweet Treat Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) thrives with stable, moderate conditions. Provide moderate light (PAR ~75–150); too much light can cause bleaching, too little reduces growth and color. Use gentle, indirect, pulsing flow to keep flesh moving without whipping; this helps prevent detritus buildup and tissue damage. Target feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped shrimp) or fine coral foods; turn off pumps during feeding to improve capture. Keep temperature 24–26°C (75–79°F), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.02–0.08 ppm. Use reliable test kits and a refractometer; avoid rapid swings, as this species is sensitive to alkalinity and salinity instability.Place mid to low in the tank on a stable rock ledge with room to expand. Leave 6–8 inches from other corals; sweepers can extend at night and sting neighbors. Generally safe with other Fimbriaphyllia if not touching, but avoid contact. Acclimate by temperature floating, then a 30–45 minute drip; dip to reduce pests, and avoid handling the flesh. Signs of stress include gaping, receded tissue, or limp polyps—reduce light, soften flow, check parameters, and improve stability. Brown jelly disease can spread quickly; siphon, iodine dip, and increase aeration if seen. For new tanks, wait until nutrients and alkalinity are stable before adding.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Sweet Treat Hammer Coral

My Sweet Treat Hammer’s tips are fading under LEDs. How can I keep the bi-color look vivid?

Aim for moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue spectrum, but acclimate slowly using reduced intensity or shorter photoperiod over 2–3 weeks. Keep nutrients non-zero (nitrate ~5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm); ultra-low levels mute color. Avoid blasting flow at the polyp; gentle, randomized movement helps tentacles fully extend, which supports pigmentation. Stability in alkalinity and temperature prevents tip paling.
Is Fimbriaphyllia paraancora safe to frag, and what’s the best method?

Yes—this species is branching. Cut only the bare skeleton between heads using a band saw or bone cutters; keep 1–2 cm from any flesh. Rinse in tank water, then dip (iodine-based or coral-safe antiseptic). Mount frags so the branch is supported to avoid wobble. Moderate flow prevents slime buildup, and a small meaty feed after a day or two can speed recovery.
How far can its sweepers reach, and which neighbors should I avoid?

Sweepers often extend 7–15 cm at night, occasionally longer on robust colonies. Keep ample space and avoid close proximity to torches (F. glabrescens), which frequently win standoffs. Frogspawn and other hammers may still sting or carry allelopathic effects, so don’t intermix heads. Use flow that prevents tentacle contact with rocks or other corals but doesn’t whip the tissue.
I’m seeing rapid tissue loss with brown slime on one head—what’s the plan?

Likely brown jelly. Immediately siphon the slime, remove the colony, and frag off affected heads well into healthy skeleton. Dip remaining pieces (iodine/chlorhexidine-based coral dip) and increase indirect flow to the base to deter stagnation. Maintain clean, stable parameters and moderate light during recovery. Disinfect tools, run fresh carbon, and watch nearby LPS for secondary signs.

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