Why is my Spearmint Cyphastrea fading under strong LEDs even though nutrients and alkalinity look fine?

This coral prefers low to moderate PAR (about 50–100). Intense light, especially lots of white/UV, can wash out the mint tones and shrink polyp extension. Reduce PAR gradually via dimming, shorter photoperiod, or screen acclimation. Aim for stable nitrate 5–15 ppm and phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm. A small bump in blue-dominant spectrum helps. Consider low-dose iron/iodine per test results; avoid heavy carbon dosing that strips nutrients too hard.

How do I get it to encrust neatly on the back wall or around odd rock shapes?

Start with a small, healthy frag and anchor it on a rough patch where coralline is sparse. Keep flow gentle but consistent to prevent detritus settling at the growth edge. Maintain slightly higher nutrients (not ultra-low) for steady calcification. Periodically brush away film algae near the edge. If growing on glass, place a textured plug as a “bridge” and let the colony hop onto the pane, then remove the plug later.

Does Spearmint Cyphastrea benefit from feeding, and when should I do it?

Yes, it responds to fine particulate foods (reef roids, rotifers, enriched nauplii) broadcasted after lights out when polyps extend. Feed small amounts 1–2 times weekly; overfeeding fuels film algae that can irritate tissue. Pair feeding with a slight increase in flow for 15–30 minutes to suspend particles. Aminos can help color if nutrients run lean, but scale back if you see bacterial sheen or dulling.

What causes patchy tissue recession at the margins, and how can I arrest it?

Common triggers are detritus accumulation at the edge, microalgae filaments abrading tissue, or bacterial irritation under low flow. Increase crossflow, turkey-baste debris every few days, and trim nearby nuisance algae. If recession advances, do an iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip and improve aeration. Check for low potassium or unstable alkalinity; both can stall calcification. Keep stinging neighbors at least a few centimeters away—short sweeper tentacles still irritate.

Spearmint Cyphastrea Coral

Cyphastrea LPS Encrusters

Overview

Spearmint Cyphastrea Coral forms an encrusting mat with small, tightly spaced mint-green polyps on a darker base. Classified as Cyphastrea sp., it is an encrusting stony coral that prefers low to moderate lighting and gentle to moderate, indirect water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but will accept fine particulate foods at night, which can support faster growth and better color. Place on stable rockwork away from intense light and leave space at the edges, as it can slowly overgrow nearby surfaces and irritate close neighbors.

Quick Facts

Care Easy

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Peaceful to semi-aggressive (2–3 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic (primary), microplankton, rotifers, copepod nauplii, cyclops, powdered coral foods (e.g., Reef Roids), phytoplankton, oyster eggs, marine snow, enriched baby brine shrimp

Care & Placement

Spearmint Cyphastrea Coral (Cyphastrea sp.) is a hardy, encrusting SPS that thrives under stability and gentle conditions. Provide low to moderate light (50–100 PAR) to prevent bleaching and washed-out color; start in shaded, lower areas and move up slowly if needed. Use low to moderate, indirect flow to keep detritus from settling on the surface without peeling tissue—random, pulsing flow works well. Feed 2–3 times weekly after lights out with fine foods (reef roids, rotifers, baby brine, or copepods); target feed lightly to avoid excess nutrients. Maintain temperature 24–26°C (75–79°F), salinity 1.024–1.026, pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1350 ppm, nitrate 2–15 ppm, phosphate 0.02–0.08 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits and keep swings minimal, especially alkalinity. Place low to mid on rockwork; give 2–3 inches of space, as this coral can overgrow neighbors and may sting short range. Avoid direct sand contact and high-light zones under LEDs.Acclimate by dipping for pests, temperature matching, and light acclimation via screen or lower placement. Blow off debris with a turkey baster. Watch for pale tissue (too much light), receding edges (alk swings or pests), and browned tissue (excess nutrients/low light). Mount on a small “island” rock to control spread. Compatible with most peaceful corals; avoid aggressive species with long sweepers (e.g., Galaxea, some Favia/Euphyllia). Frag with bone cutters on the encrusted edge if needed. Stable parameters and gentle care yield steady growth and strong color.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Spearmint Cyphastrea Coral

Why is my Spearmint Cyphastrea fading under strong LEDs even though nutrients and alkalinity look fine?

This coral prefers low to moderate PAR (about 50–100). Intense light, especially lots of white/UV, can wash out the mint tones and shrink polyp extension. Reduce PAR gradually via dimming, shorter photoperiod, or screen acclimation. Aim for stable nitrate 5–15 ppm and phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm. A small bump in blue-dominant spectrum helps. Consider low-dose iron/iodine per test results; avoid heavy carbon dosing that strips nutrients too hard.
How do I get it to encrust neatly on the back wall or around odd rock shapes?

Start with a small, healthy frag and anchor it on a rough patch where coralline is sparse. Keep flow gentle but consistent to prevent detritus settling at the growth edge. Maintain slightly higher nutrients (not ultra-low) for steady calcification. Periodically brush away film algae near the edge. If growing on glass, place a textured plug as a “bridge” and let the colony hop onto the pane, then remove the plug later.
Does Spearmint Cyphastrea benefit from feeding, and when should I do it?

Yes, it responds to fine particulate foods (reef roids, rotifers, enriched nauplii) broadcasted after lights out when polyps extend. Feed small amounts 1–2 times weekly; overfeeding fuels film algae that can irritate tissue. Pair feeding with a slight increase in flow for 15–30 minutes to suspend particles. Aminos can help color if nutrients run lean, but scale back if you see bacterial sheen or dulling.
What causes patchy tissue recession at the margins, and how can I arrest it?

Common triggers are detritus accumulation at the edge, microalgae filaments abrading tissue, or bacterial irritation under low flow. Increase crossflow, turkey-baste debris every few days, and trim nearby nuisance algae. If recession advances, do an iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip and improve aeration. Check for low potassium or unstable alkalinity; both can stall calcification. Keep stinging neighbors at least a few centimeters away—short sweeper tentacles still irritate.

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