My Red Brick Cyphastrea fades under strong LEDs. Is it light-shy or lacking nutrients?

Cyphastrea sp. is naturally found in shaded, turbid zones and prefers modest PAR (40–120). Excessive white-heavy intensity washes out red pigments; pair moderate PAR with a blue-dominant spectrum. Maintain nutrients in the “not-ultra-low” range (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). If color is pale with good nutrients, lower light 20–30% over a week and reassess polyp extension at night.

It’s receding from the edges despite stable parameters. What subtle factors should I check?

Edge recession often follows detritus buildup and microalgae encroachment at the growth rim. Increase random, indirect flow to keep the margin clean, and manually siphon debris weekly. Inspect for vermetid snails or spirorbid clusters irritating tissue. Slightly raise alkalinity stability (8.0–9.0 dKH with <0.2 daily swing). A short broad‑spectrum antibiotic dip can help if tissue looks bacterial, but address flow first.

Will it sting neighbors, or does it win differently?

Cyphastrea rarely throws long sweepers; it wins by slow, steady overgrowth. It can smother zoas, encrusting montis, or rockwork seams. Give a perimeter gap or isolate on its own “island” rock. If it approaches a prized coral, create a thin sand trench or place a small rubble barrier you can relocate as the mat advances.

Nighttime polyp extension is weak—am I underfeeding?

It’s a subtle feeder. Try feeding after lights out when flow is slowed: rotifers, oyster eggs, or very fine coral foods. Precondition with a brief amino/carbohydrate broadcast 10–15 minutes prior to cue feeding response. Ensure trace stability (iodine, iron) and avoid carbon dosing that strips particulates. If extension remains minimal, reduce light intensity slightly for a week; response often improves.

Red Brick Cyphastrea Coral

Q: Will it sting neighbors, or does it win differently?

Cyphastrea rarely throws long sweepers; it wins by slow, steady overgrowth. It can smother zoas, encrusting montis, or rockwork seams. Give a perimeter gap or isolate on its own “island” rock. If it approaches a prized coral, create a thin sand trench or place a small rubble barrier you can relocate as the mat advances.

Q: Nighttime polyp extension is weak—am I underfeeding?

It’s a subtle feeder. Try feeding after lights out when flow is slowed: rotifers, oyster eggs, or very fine coral foods. Precondition with a brief amino/carbohydrate broadcast 10–15 minutes prior to cue feeding response. Ensure trace stability (iodine, iron) and avoid carbon dosing that strips particulates. If extension remains minimal, reduce light intensity slightly for a week; response often improves.

Cyphastrea

Overview

Red Brick Cyphastrea Coral shows a dense encrusting surface with small, raised polyps that give a brick-like texture. Cyphastrea sp. is a small-polyp stony, encrusting coral that does well in low to moderate light and gentle to moderate water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for most nutrition but accepts fine particulate foods; occasional feeding can improve growth and deepen coloration. Place on stable rock away from aggressive neighbors, and allow space for slow outward spread.

Quick Facts

Care Easy

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Peaceful (1–2 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH

Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, microplankton, rotifers, copepod nauplii, oyster eggs, coral-specific powdered foods, marine snow

Care & Placement

Red Brick Cyphastrea Coral (Cyphastrea sp.) prefers low to moderate light (PAR 50–100) with indirect exposure; strong light can cause paling or bleaching. Provide moderate, varied flow to keep detritus from settling on the surface without blasting tissue. Target or broadcast feed fine particulate foods (rotifers, cyclops, reef roids) 2–3 times weekly, ideally after lights out when polyps extend. Keep parameters stable: temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), salinity 1.025–1.026, pH 8.0–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1250–1400 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.02–0.08 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits and a refractometer; Cyphastrea is sensitive to rapid swings, especially in alkalinity and light.Place low to mid in the tank on rockwork, favoring shaded or indirect light areas. Allow 2–3 inches from aggressive neighbors; it’s generally peaceful but will slowly encrust and can overgrow adjacent surfaces. Avoid placement where sand can cover tissue. Acclimate with a slow drip (20–30 minutes) and light acclimation (start low or use window screen, increasing light over 1–2 weeks). Dip new pieces to exclude pests and inspect for vermetid snails or algae that trap debris. Signs of stress include tissue recession at edges (often from low flow, detritus, or low alkalinity) and bleaching from too much light. Correct by improving flow, gently turkey-basting debris, restoring stable parameters, and reducing light intensity or duration. Nighttime polyp extension and steady encrusting growth indicate good health.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Red Brick Cyphastrea Coral

My Red Brick Cyphastrea fades under strong LEDs. Is it light-shy or lacking nutrients?

Cyphastrea sp. is naturally found in shaded, turbid zones and prefers modest PAR (40–120). Excessive white-heavy intensity washes out red pigments; pair moderate PAR with a blue-dominant spectrum. Maintain nutrients in the “not-ultra-low” range (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). If color is pale with good nutrients, lower light 20–30% over a week and reassess polyp extension at night.
It’s receding from the edges despite stable parameters. What subtle factors should I check?

Edge recession often follows detritus buildup and microalgae encroachment at the growth rim. Increase random, indirect flow to keep the margin clean, and manually siphon debris weekly. Inspect for vermetid snails or spirorbid clusters irritating tissue. Slightly raise alkalinity stability (8.0–9.0 dKH with <0.2 daily swing). A short broad‑spectrum antibiotic dip can help if tissue looks bacterial, but address flow first.
Will it sting neighbors, or does it win differently?

Cyphastrea rarely throws long sweepers; it wins by slow, steady overgrowth. It can smother zoas, encrusting montis, or rockwork seams. Give a perimeter gap or isolate on its own “island” rock. If it approaches a prized coral, create a thin sand trench or place a small rubble barrier you can relocate as the mat advances.
Nighttime polyp extension is weak—am I underfeeding?

It’s a subtle feeder. Try feeding after lights out when flow is slowed: rotifers, oyster eggs, or very fine coral foods. Precondition with a brief amino/carbohydrate broadcast 10–15 minutes prior to cue feeding response. Ensure trace stability (iodine, iron) and avoid carbon dosing that strips particulates. If extension remains minimal, reduce light intensity slightly for a week; response often improves.

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