My Nuclear Blast Blastomussa lost its neon pop. Is it light or nutrients?

This morph often washes out under high PAR. Aim for 60–120 PAR with strong blue/UV (420–460 nm) and moderate nutrients (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1 ppm). Sudden alkalinity shifts dull color fast. If faded, lower intensity over a week, increase blue channel, and feed small meaty foods 2–3x weekly. Avoid prolonged white-heavy spectrums.

Why do some heads recede while others look fine on the same colony?

Shadowed or high-flow edges often starve first. wellsi has large, fleshy polyps that dislike direct, turbulent flow. Rotate or slightly tilt the frag so all heads receive similar light and gentle, indirect movement. Check for vermetid snails and stinging neighbors (favia, galaxea). Verify stability: daily swings in dKH or salinity commonly target the weakest heads.

Best practice to frag Blastomussa wellsi without losing polyps?

Use a diamond saw and cut through skeleton between heads—never across mouths. Plan cuts so each piece carries full polyp tissue and a rim of skeleton. Dip in iodine, place in low light/low flow for 5–7 days, and pause feeding 48 hours to prevent bacterial issues. Resume light target feeding once polyps fully inflate and accept food.

Can it sit on the sandbed long-term, or does it need a rock?

Sandbed is fine and often preferred due to lower light, but elevate slightly on a small tile or rubble to protect tissue from abrasion and detritus. Avoid areas where gobies or wrasses bury it. If placing on rock, choose a ledge with shade options and minimal flow bounce-back to prevent chronic polyp retraction.

Nuclear Blast Blastomussa Coral

Blastomussa LPS

Overview

Nuclear Blast Blastomussa Coral shows large, fleshy polyps with thick, ridged mouths and bright radial coloration. Blastomussa wellsi is a large‑polyp stony coral forming dome-shaped heads; it prefers low to moderate lighting and gentle, indirect flow. It hosts symbiotic algae for photosynthesis but accepts small meaty foods at night, which can boost growth and deepen color. Place on stable rock or sand with space from aggressive corals, as its tissue is delicate and can be damaged by contact.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Peaceful to semi-aggressive (2–3 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–82°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (krill, shrimp), cyclops, zooplankton, microplankton, coral-specific powdered foods (e.g., Reef Roids), marine snow

Care & Placement

Nuclear Blast Blastomussa Coral (Blastomussa wellsi) prefers low to moderate light (PAR 50–100) and gentle, indirect flow that keeps detritus from settling without pushing tissue. Place on the sandbed or a stable lower–mid rock ledge; avoid sharp edges and direct pump output. Allow 2–3 inches of space from neighbors—tentacles are short, but it can be irritated or stung by more aggressive LPS. Feed 1–2 times weekly after lights dim with small meaty foods (mysis, enriched brine, finely chopped seafood) or coral foods; target feeding helps growth and polyp inflation. Keep temperature 76–79°F, salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1280–1350 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits and a refractometer; aim for stability and avoid rapid swings.Acclimate slowly with a 30–45 minute drip and a pest dip. Light-acclimate by starting in shade or using a screen, then increase exposure over 1–2 weeks. Signs of stress include tissue recession (often from excess flow, mechanical irritation, or low nutrients) and bleaching (too much light or sudden change). If detritus accumulates, gently baste polyps and adjust flow angle. Maintain moderate nutrients; ultra-low levels can starve it. Quarantine new corals, keep alkalinity stable, and address infections early (frag away dead tissue, improve flow, and consider an iodine dip if brown jelly appears). Regularly inspect for vermetid snails or bristleworms that may irritate the flesh.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Nuclear Blast Blastomussa Coral

My Nuclear Blast Blastomussa lost its neon pop. Is it light or nutrients?

This morph often washes out under high PAR. Aim for 60–120 PAR with strong blue/UV (420–460 nm) and moderate nutrients (NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.1 ppm). Sudden alkalinity shifts dull color fast. If faded, lower intensity over a week, increase blue channel, and feed small meaty foods 2–3x weekly. Avoid prolonged white-heavy spectrums.
Why do some heads recede while others look fine on the same colony?

Shadowed or high-flow edges often starve first. wellsi has large, fleshy polyps that dislike direct, turbulent flow. Rotate or slightly tilt the frag so all heads receive similar light and gentle, indirect movement. Check for vermetid snails and stinging neighbors (favia, galaxea). Verify stability: daily swings in dKH or salinity commonly target the weakest heads.
Best practice to frag Blastomussa wellsi without losing polyps?

Use a diamond saw and cut through skeleton between heads—never across mouths. Plan cuts so each piece carries full polyp tissue and a rim of skeleton. Dip in iodine, place in low light/low flow for 5–7 days, and pause feeding 48 hours to prevent bacterial issues. Resume light target feeding once polyps fully inflate and accept food.
Can it sit on the sandbed long-term, or does it need a rock?

Sandbed is fine and often preferred due to lower light, but elevate slightly on a small tile or rubble to protect tissue from abrasion and detritus. Avoid areas where gobies or wrasses bury it. If placing on rock, choose a ledge with shade options and minimal flow bounce-back to prevent chronic polyp retraction.

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