Lime Hammer Coral

Lime Hammer Coral

Hammers

Overview

Lime Hammer Coral features lime-green hammer-shaped tentacle tips. Fimbriaphyllia paraancora is a branching large-polyp stony coral that prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, indirect water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae but also accepts small meaty foods; occasional feeding can support faster growth and richer color. Place it in a stable low-to-mid position with ample space, as its sweeper tentacles can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate
Lighting Moderate
Flow Moderate, indirect
Placement Mid–Low
Temperament Aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 77–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 420–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9 dKH
Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped marine meats (krill, shrimp), copepods, zooplankton/microplankton, coral-specific micro foods

Care & Placement

Lime Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) thrives with moderate light and gentle, indirect flow that keeps polyps swaying without whipping. Aim for 80–150 PAR; start lower and increase over a week or two to prevent bleaching. Place mid to low in the tank on stable rock or a frag rack, avoiding sharp edges that can cut tissue. Feed small meaty foods (mysis, finely chopped seafood) or quality coral foods 1–2 times weekly; target feed lightly to avoid excess waste. Maintain stable water: 76–80°F, pH 8.1–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1280–1400 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test with reliable kits and verify salinity with a refractometer; keep changes gradual. This coral is semi-aggressive and can extend stinging tentacles at night—allow 4–6 inches of space from neighbors, including other Fimbriaphyllia types.Acclimate with a 30–45 minute drip and shade under screen or lower light positions for a week. Common issues: bleaching from sudden high light, tissue recession from unstable alkalinity/salinity or excessive flow, and brown jelly infection after damage—respond by isolating, improving flow, and using an iodine dip. Avoid detritus buildup around the base; use a turkey baster during maintenance. Watch for fish that nip (many angels, butterflies); clowns may host and should be monitored for rough behavior. If polyps stay retracted, check for swings in parameters, pests, or too much flow, and adjust placement gradually.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Lime Hammer Coral

  • How can I tell if my Lime Hammer Coral is the branching form (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) and why does it matter?
    F. paraancora grows as distinct, forked branches with individual heads, unlike the single continuous “wall” of F. ancora. This matters for resilience and propagation: branching forms recover from damage faster, are easier to frag between branch junctions, and tolerate minor die-off without losing the entire colony. Mount to allow outward branching and future splits.
  • My lime-green tips are fading under blue LEDs—what fine-tuning helps restore color without stressing the coral?
    Aim for moderate PAR (80–150) with strong blue/UV channels and stable nutrients (nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm). Sudden “ultra-clean” conditions often pale hammers; increase feeding slightly and reduce aggressive skimming if needed. Avoid big spectrum jumps; adjust 10% weekly. Check iron-heavy supplements cautiously—overuse can brown tissue.
  • What flow pattern prevents recession or brown jelly on F. paraancora without collapsing the polyps?
    Use a wide, alternating flow that gently moves tentacles without folding them over. If flesh retracts on one side or skeleton shows, reduce direct laminar streams and reposition slightly downstream of a rock. After a bump or frag, increase aeration and flow around (not onto) tissue to lower bacterial risk. Siphon debris from branch bases.
  • Can Lime Hammer touch other Euphyllia like frogspawn or torch safely?
    It varies by colony. Some hammers tolerate F. divisa (frogspawn) contact, but many wage slow chemical warfare that ends in recession. Torches (F. glabrescens) usually win and can burn hammers. Keep 7–10 cm clearance at minimum, more in higher flow. Watch for filament release or localized retraction and move corals before tissue loss appears.