How can I keep the “Key Lime Pie” neon color from fading in my Fimbriaphyllia paraancora?

Run a blue-leaning spectrum (heavy in 420–470 nm) with moderate PAR (80–150). Avoid ultra-low nutrients; target nitrate 5–15 ppm and phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH), calcium (420–460 ppm), and magnesium (1300–1400 ppm) support pigment stability. Too much white light or rapid nutrient drops mute color. Gentle target feeding 1–2x weekly can help, but overfeeding increases infection risk.

How do I read its polyp shape to tune light and flow?

Long, inflated “hammers” with gentle sway indicate good conditions. Overextended, thin tentacles reaching upward suggest low light; pale tissue and withdrawn tentacles point to excess light. Whipping, torched tissue or torn edges mean flow is too direct; aim for diffuse, oscillating movement. Recession at the skeleton rim often tracks alkalinity swings or mechanical abrasion—stabilize parameters and adjust placement to avoid rubbing.

Can different hammer morphs touch, and what neighbors should I avoid?

Only allow heads from the same colony or known clones to touch. Different genotypes, even within Fimbriaphyllia, may sting each other over time. Give 3–6 inches clearance; at night, sweepers can extend farther. Avoid contact with torches (F. glabrescens), which pack stronger stings. Keep distance from abrasive rocks and sand that can cut tissue at the septa and invite infection.

Why did a head bail out, and can it be saved?

Polyp bailout can follow rapid parameter swings, chemical stress (allelopathy), excessive direct flow, or acute light shock. If a head detaches, place it in a low-flow specimen cup with rubble under moderate light and stable parameters; some will reattach. Run fresh carbon, perform small water changes, and verify ammonia is zero. Review recent changes—large dosing corrections and aggressive lighting shifts are common triggers.

Key Lime Pie Hammer Coral

Hammers

Overview

Key Lime Pie Hammer Coral shows green to yellow hammer-shaped tentacle tips with branching heads. Fimbriaphyllia paraancora is a branching large-polyp stony coral that prefers moderate light and gentle to moderate, indirect flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for most nutrition but accepts occasional small meaty foods, which can support faster growth and stronger color. Place with ample space from other corals due to long stinging sweepers, and avoid high-flow areas that can cause tissue damage.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Moderate

Flow Moderate, indirect

Placement Mid–Low

Temperament Semi-aggressive (6–8 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–10 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood (shrimp, clam), zooplankton, microplankton, LPS pellets, coral-specific microfoods

Care & Placement

Key Lime Pie Hammer Coral (Fimbriaphyllia paraancora) prefers moderate light and gentle, indirect flow that makes the polyps sway without whipping; target 80–150 PAR and avoid direct blasts to prevent tissue damage. Place low to mid in the tank on a stable rock shelf or sandbed with a frag plug holder; give 6–8 inches of space for nighttime sweepers (2–4 inches) and keep away from delicate neighbors. Same-species or same-genus hammers may touch, but monitor for stings. Feed 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, brine, chopped clam) or fine particulate coral foods; feeding supports growth and helps maintain color. Maintain stable water: temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), pH 8.0–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1280–1400 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Test weekly (alkalinity most often), use an auto top-off for salinity stability, and change carbon monthly to keep water clear.Acclimate by temperature-matching and 30–45 minutes of drip acclimation; dip and/or quarantine to exclude pests. Light-acclimate over 1–2 weeks by using a shade screen or starting on the sandbed. Handle by the skeleton, not the flesh. Signs: bleaching = too much light; receding tissue = alk swings, low nutrients, or damage; brown jelly (slimy decay) needs an iodine dip, removal of dead areas, and increased flow. Avoid coral-nipping fish and persistent clownfish hosting, which can irritate polyps. Keep detritus from settling by maintaining steady, indirect flow around the base.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the Key Lime Pie Hammer Coral

How can I keep the “Key Lime Pie” neon color from fading in my Fimbriaphyllia paraancora?

Run a blue-leaning spectrum (heavy in 420–470 nm) with moderate PAR (80–150). Avoid ultra-low nutrients; target nitrate 5–15 ppm and phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm. Stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH), calcium (420–460 ppm), and magnesium (1300–1400 ppm) support pigment stability. Too much white light or rapid nutrient drops mute color. Gentle target feeding 1–2x weekly can help, but overfeeding increases infection risk.
How do I read its polyp shape to tune light and flow?

Long, inflated “hammers” with gentle sway indicate good conditions. Overextended, thin tentacles reaching upward suggest low light; pale tissue and withdrawn tentacles point to excess light. Whipping, torched tissue or torn edges mean flow is too direct; aim for diffuse, oscillating movement. Recession at the skeleton rim often tracks alkalinity swings or mechanical abrasion—stabilize parameters and adjust placement to avoid rubbing.
Can different hammer morphs touch, and what neighbors should I avoid?

Only allow heads from the same colony or known clones to touch. Different genotypes, even within Fimbriaphyllia, may sting each other over time. Give 3–6 inches clearance; at night, sweepers can extend farther. Avoid contact with torches (F. glabrescens), which pack stronger stings. Keep distance from abrasive rocks and sand that can cut tissue at the septa and invite infection.
Why did a head bail out, and can it be saved?

Polyp bailout can follow rapid parameter swings, chemical stress (allelopathy), excessive direct flow, or acute light shock. If a head detaches, place it in a low-flow specimen cup with rubble under moderate light and stable parameters; some will reattach. Run fresh carbon, perform small water changes, and verify ammonia is zero. Review recent changes—large dosing corrections and aggressive lighting shifts are common triggers.

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