JF Yellow Submarine Favia Coral

JF Yellow Submarine Favia Coral

Beginner Corals LPS Favia

Overview

JF Yellow Submarine Favia Coral shows bright yellow polyps with contrasting ridges and a dome-shaped, multi-polyp surface. Favia favus is a stony brain coral forming encrusting to massive colonies; it does well under moderate lighting and low to moderate, steady water flow. It is photosynthetic via symbiotic algae but accepts small meaty foods at night, which can support faster growth and maintain color. Place with space from neighbors, as it extends nighttime sweeper tentacles that can sting nearby corals.

Quick Facts

Care Easy
Lighting Low–Moderate
Flow Moderate indirect
Placement Low–Mid
Temperament Semi-aggressive (3–6 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F
pH 8.1–8.4
Salinity 1.025–1.026
Calcium 400–450 ppm
AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH
Magnesium 1250–1350 ppm
Feeding photosynthetic, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, copepods, rotifers, microplankton, marine snow, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

JF Yellow Submarine Favia Coral (Favia favus) is a hardy LPS that does best under moderate light and moderate, indirect flow. Aim for 80–150 PAR; start low and increase slowly over 2–3 weeks to avoid bleaching. Provide enough flow to keep the tissue gently moving and to prevent detritus buildup, but avoid direct jets that can cause tissue recession. Target feed 2–3 times per week after lights out with small meaty foods (mysis, chopped shrimp, reef roids) when feeder tentacles are extended; feeding supports growth and coloration. Keep stable water: temperature 75–79°F (24–26°C), pH 8.1–8.4, salinity 1.025–1.026, calcium 400–450 ppm, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, magnesium 1300–1400 ppm, nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits, use a refractometer for salinity, and adjust parameters gradually; this coral is sensitive to rapid alkalinity swings and sudden light changes.Place on the sandbed or lower to mid rockwork with 3–6 inches of space from neighbors. Favia extends long sweeper tentacles at night and can sting nearby corals; avoid close placement to other LPS with long reach. Acclimate by floating to temperature, drip 30–45 minutes, then dip to remove pests. Mount on a stable plug or rock shelf to keep the rim clean of detritus. Watch for signs of stress: paling/bleaching (too much light), tissue recession (low flow, unstable Alk, pests), or brown jelly (bacterial)—respond with reduced light, improved flow, stable parameters, and an iodine or broad-spectrum coral dip if needed. Keep fish and inverts that won’t pick at fleshy polyps. Regular, consistent care yields steady growth and vivid color.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the JF Yellow Submarine Favia Coral

  • How do I keep the yellow coloration on the JF Yellow Submarine Favia from fading or browning?
    Maintain moderate PAR (120–180) with a blue-leaning spectrum; excessive white light can wash yellow. Keep nutrients non-zero but controlled (nitrate 5–15 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.1 ppm). Strong, chaotic flow can stress tissue—aim for gentle, indirect movement. Stable alkalinity (8–9 dKH) and frequent small feedings at night help pigment retention. Avoid rapid light changes; acclimate over 2–3 weeks.
  • Why does it sting neighbors at night even when daytime tentacles look short?
    Favia favus deploys long nocturnal sweeper tentacles, often 2–5 cm, especially under higher flow or when defending territory. Give 3–4 inches of clearance all around, more down-current. Carbon and good skimming can reduce allelopathic stress, but spacing is the real fix. If space is tight, place less aggressive corals up-current and keep nutrients stable to reduce chemical warfare.
  • What’s the safest way to frag this strain without causing recession between corallites?
    Use a diamond band saw and cut through the skeleton precisely between corallites, avoiding shared walls. Dip fragments in iodine or chlorhexidine-based coral dips to limit infection. Mount on stable plugs with low-flow recovery for 5–7 days. Feed lightly at night to encourage healing. Avoid heavy handling during high-alk swings; plan frags after a week of parameter stability.
  • My colony inflated then receded around the base—what’s the likely cause and fix?
    Common triggers include alk swings, vermetid snail irritation, or bacterial insult after minor damage. Test alkalinity and correct slowly (no more than 0.5 dKH/day). Remove vermetids and trim their tubes. Siphon detritus from the base, increase gentle flow, and perform an iodine dip. If tissue lifts, stabilize on a flat, clean surface and reduce light 20% for a week, then gradually restore.