Name: Black Snowflake Clownfish - Amphiprion ocellaris
Brand: TSA Fish
SKU: CLOWNxBSnowflake
Price: 69.99 USD
Availability: InStock

Black Snowflake Clownfish - Amphiprion ocellaris

$69.99

Black Snowflake Clownfish - Amphiprion ocellaris

Beginner Fish Captive-Bred Clownfish Reef Safe

$69.99

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Goes well with:

Diet

Pellets Mysis Shrimp Nori

Min Tank Size 30 gallons

Temperament Semi-aggressive

Reef Safe Yes

Care & Diet Feeding, nutrition, and best practices.

Diet Type: Omnivore

Ocellaris Clownfish are omnivorous and benefit from a varied diet. In captivity, they should be fed a mix of high-quality marine pellets or flakes, supplemented with frozen or live foods such as brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and finely chopped seafood. Feeding should occur 1-2 times daily, ensuring that all food is consumed within a few minutes to maintain water quality. It's important to avoid overfeeding, as this can lead to poor water conditions and health issues.

Pellets Mysis Shrimp Nori

Behavior Temperament, activity level, and interactions.

Temperament: Semi-aggressive

Ocellaris Clownfish exhibit a distinctive swimming style with a gentle, bobbing motion. They are social and often form symbiotic relationships with sea anemones, which provide protection. Ocellaris Clownfish are territorial, defending their chosen anemone home from intruders. They are generally peaceful and compatible with other non-aggressive fish species. However, they may display aggression towards other clownfish species or conspecifics if space is limited. They thrive best in groups or pairs, with a clear hierarchy established, led by a dominant female.

Tank & Aquascape Tank requirements and aquascaping tips.

Min Tank Size: 30 gallons
Max Size: 4.3 inches
Care Level: Easy
Origin: Indonesia

Compatibility Tank mates, aggression, and introduction order.

Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Reef Safe: Yes

Clownfish Reef Safe Omnivore

Reef & Health Reef safety, common issues, and prevention.

Reef Safe: Yes
Care Level: Easy

FAQs Answers to the most common questions.

How can I successfully pair two Ocellaris Clownfish, and what behaviors show they’re actually forming a pair instead of just fighting?

Start with one noticeably larger Ocellaris and one smaller juvenile/subadult; this maximizes the chance they’ll form a female–male pair. Avoid mixing two established females, as they will fight severely. Introduce them to the tank at the same time, or add the smaller one in a transparent acclimation box inside the display for a few days so they can see each other without physical contact. Normal pairing behavior includes brief chasing, body twitching or “seizure-like” spasms by the smaller fish (a sign of submission), and short-duration nipping that doesn’t cause torn fins or missing scales. This phase can last days to a couple of weeks. If the chasing is constant, the smaller fish is pinned in corners, or you see ripped fins and missing chunks of flesh, they are not settling; use a divider or remove one fish. Once paired, they will often sleep near each other, hover in the same territory, and the submissive fish will frequently quiver when approached by the dominant one.

My tank has no anemone. What are some realistic hosting substitutes that Ocellaris Clownfish commonly accept, and how can I encourage them to use them?

Ocellaris often adopt alternative hosts, especially in captivity. Common substitutes include soft corals (toadstool leathers, large hairy mushrooms, colts, Xenia), large-polyp stony corals (frogspawn, hammer, torch—though stinging risk and coral stress must be considered), and sometimes artificial “nem” decorations or dense macroalgae clumps. To encourage use, place the surrogate host near their preferred hangout and avoid high, chaotic flow over it. Housing them in a smaller tank or section where the “host” is the most prominent structure increases the chance they’ll use it. Some hobbyists tape a printed photo of clowns in an anemone to the glass right by the surrogate, which occasionally prompts exploration, though results are mixed. Ocellaris may also remain “hostless” and simply hover near a rock ledge or powerhead; this is normal and not harmful as long as they’re feeding and behaving normally.

My captive-bred Ocellaris Clownfish keeps swimming in the powerhead’s flow and barely leaves one corner of the tank. Is this normal, and how do I adjust flow and aquascape specifically for this species?

Many Ocellaris, especially captive-bred, establish a very small territory and may remain in one corner or near a single object (overflow, powerhead, top corner). Sitting in moderate flow and “surfing” a powerhead is very common and not automatically a cause for concern. For Ocellaris, provide moderate, indirect flow in their chosen area—aim the main powerheads so they don’t blast the spot where the clowns hover, yet still keep detritus from settling. Create at least one sheltered zone with rockwork that breaks direct current; they often adopt that area as a home base. If the fish is eating well, has full fins, and shows normal color and respiration, the corner-hugging is a normal species trait. Reduce flow only if they’re being pushed around uncontrollably, breathing rapidly, or can’t rest without constant fin effort; otherwise, maintaining good circulation is more important than forcing them to roam.

I want to breed my Ocellaris Clownfish pair. What specific environmental cues and diet changes reliably trigger them to start laying eggs in a home aquarium?

Ocellaris are among the most reliable marine breeders, but they require stability and conditioning. Aim for 1.023–1.026 salinity, 78–80°F (25.5–26.5°C), and very stable parameters (ammonia/nitrite 0, nitrate ideally under 20 ppm). Provide a flat, easily cleaned surface near their territory, such as a piece of ceramic tile, a small terracotta pot, or a smooth rock placed where they already hang out. They often clean this surface obsessively before spawning. Increase feeding to 3–4 small meals per day, focusing on high-quality, varied foods: enriched frozen mysis, finely chopped seafood, quality marine pellets, and vitamin- or HUFA-enriched frozen foods. Good body condition on the female (slightly plump belly) and a settled, established pair are essential. Maintain a consistent light schedule (10–12 hours of light) and avoid large, sudden changes in water chemistry or temperature. Once conditioned, many Ocellaris pairs spawn on a roughly 10–14 day cycle. Note that raising larvae requires a separate rearing setup, rotifers, and careful planning.

My Ocellaris Clownfish has started nipping at my hand and biting when I work in the tank. Is this aggression normal for this species, and how can I manage it without stressing them?

Territorial aggression, especially from the female, is common in established Ocellaris, particularly in smaller tanks or once they have a favored site or egg clutch. Biting at hands is a typical defensive behavior and not a sign of disease. To manage it, do maintenance during their “sleepy” period shortly after lights on or just before lights out, when they’re calmer. Use a feeding distraction by adding a small amount of food at the opposite side of the tank right before you put your hand in. Wearing thin aquarium gloves helps prevent painful nips and reduces skin oils in the water. Avoid repeatedly disturbing their nest area or host site; plan rock or coral work between spawn cycles if they breed. If aggression is extreme, slightly rearranging rockwork can reset territory boundaries, but this may also cause short-term stress. As long as they aren’t injuring tankmates or themselves, this defensive behavior is typical for a bonded Ocellaris pair.

You will receive a fish SIMILAR in design and size to the fish in the photo. This is NOT a WYSIWYG fish.

Black Snowflake Clownfish – Amphiprion ocellaris

The Black Snowflake Clownfish is a captive-bred designer form of the Ocellaris Clownfish, combining a deep black body with enlarged, irregular white bands. The jagged snowflake pattern is unique to each fish, creating anything from bold white patches to smaller islands and dots of color. Juveniles may retain orange around the face and body before gradually developing darker adult coloration, and some individuals keep a touch of orange around the snout.

Originally developed by crossing Black Ice Snowflakes back to Black Ocellaris over multiple generations, this aquarium-bred strain offers the dramatic contrast of a Black Ocellaris with the unpredictable patterning of a Snowflake. The parent species, Amphiprion ocellaris, is native to shallow coral reefs and lagoons of the Indo-West Pacific, from Southeast Asia and northwestern Australia to Taiwan and the Ryukyu Islands.

Its manageable adult size, dependable feeding response, and excellent coral compatibility make this saltwater fish a standout choice for reef aquariums and peaceful fish-only aquariums. A host anemone is not required, and captive-bred specimens readily establish a territory around rockwork, a cave, or another sheltered area.

Quick Care Guide

Care Level: Easy
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Omnivore
Reef Safe: Yes
Region: Captive-bred; parent species native to the Indo-West Pacific
Scientific Name: Amphiprion ocellaris

The species reaches approximately 4.3 inches, with the dominant female becoming the largest member of an established pair.

Tank Requirements

Provide a stable marine aquarium with live rock, caves, overhangs, and at least one protected area the clownfish can claim as its territory. Leave open swimming room around the shelter so the fish can feed comfortably and tankmates can avoid the defended area.

A sand or fine-gravel substrate is suitable, although no specialized substrate is required. Moderate, varied water movement works well when calmer resting areas are also available. Protect exposed pump intakes and use a fitted lid or secure mesh cover, particularly while the fish is acclimating.

A host anemone is optional. Amphiprion ocellaris naturally associates with several large sea anemones, but captive-bred Black Snowflakes can thrive without one. They may instead adopt a rock cave, aquarium corner, coral colony, or other protected feature as a substitute host.

Diet and Feeding

The Black Snowflake Clownfish is an adaptable omnivore. Its natural species diet includes algae, copepods, isopods, zooplankton, and food obtained around a host anemone. Captive-bred specimens are accustomed to prepared aquarium diets and generally accept frozen foods, pellets, and flakes readily.

Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, copepods, finely chopped shrimp or clam, frozen marine blends, and appropriately sized marine pellets. Include spirulina-enriched flakes or other algae-containing foods to provide a balanced omnivorous diet.

Feed one or two small portions daily. Juveniles and newly introduced fish may benefit from two smaller meals while they settle into the aquarium and establish a feeding routine.

Temperament and Tankmates

Black Snowflake Clownfish are generally manageable community fish, but established individuals can become territorial around a cave, substitute host, anemone, or spawning site. The largest fish in a pair becomes the dominant female, while the smaller individual functions as the male.

Suitable tankmates include gobies, blennies, cardinalfish, firefish, peaceful wrasses, dwarf angelfish, and other community marine fish that will not harass or attempt to eat the clownfish.

Keep one specimen or a compatible pair in most aquariums. When pairing unfamiliar fish, choose individuals of noticeably different sizes to encourage a stable hierarchy. Avoid combining two mature females or maintaining multiple clownfish pairs in a modest aquarium, as territorial aggression can become severe.

Reef Compatibility

The Black Snowflake Clownfish is reef safe. It does not normally consume healthy stony corals, soft corals, zoanthids, clams, ornamental shrimp, crabs, or snails.

Some individuals may adopt a large-polyp stony coral, soft coral, mushroom, or another sessile animal as a substitute host. Repeated rubbing can irritate a sensitive coral even though the fish is not feeding on it. Monitor any adopted coral that remains closed or shows persistent tissue recession.

Water Parameters

Temperature: 75–80°F
Specific Gravity: 1.024–1.026
pH: 8.1–8.4
Alkalinity: 8–12 dKH

Maintain dependable biological filtration, consistent salinity, and good oxygenation. Long-term stability is more important than repeatedly adjusting the aquarium to reach one exact value.

Common Considerations

Every pattern is different: White markings vary naturally in shape, coverage, and arrangement.
Color develops with maturity: Juveniles may show orange that gradually darkens during their first year.
An anemone is not required: Captive-bred specimens can thrive with ordinary rockwork and shelter.
Expect territorial behavior: A settled individual or breeding pair may defend its chosen area.
Keep one compatible pair: Multiple pairs or two mature females may fight in confined aquariums.