On the reef this wrasse feeds on zooplankton, picking small prey from the water column. In the aquarium, that translates to varied meaty foods cut small enough for a fish of this size. Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and finely chopped shrimp, squid, clam and marine fish flesh all suit it well. Rotating among several items keeps color and condition strong over the long term.
Feed two or three small meals daily, and at minimum once per day. Newly introduced individuals are sometimes reluctant to take prepared foods, and live fortified adult brine shrimp, live brine shrimp or frozen mysis are effective for triggering the first feeding response. Once an animal is eating confidently, transition it onto the broader frozen selection.
Choose tankmates that will not outcompete it at feeding time. Aggressive or highly assertive fishes can keep this wrasse concealed and prevent it from eating properly. It is well suited to reef aquariums and is safe with corals and sessile invertebrates. The one caveat concerns very small ornamental crustaceans, as fairy wrasses may pick at tiny shrimp; plan accordingly if delicate shrimp are part of the display.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
About the Hooded Flame Fairy Wrasse
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How do I tell this species apart from Cirrhilabrus efatensis?
In terminal-phase male C. bathyphilus, the red of the forebody fades gradually into the orange posterior body, while in C. efatensis the two colors are separated abruptly. Collection locality also helps, as C. bathyphilus ranges through the Coral Sea to southern Vanuatu. -
Does this wrasse need a sand bed?
No. It shelters by wedging into rock crevices at night rather than burying itself, so caves and tight rockwork matter more than substrate depth. -
What should I do if a newly acquired specimen refuses food?
Offer live fortified adult brine shrimp, live brine shrimp or frozen mysis to initiate feeding. Once it is eating reliably, move it onto varied small meaty foods fed two or three times daily.




