Why does my Lithophyllon undulatum lose color at the rim while the center stays bright?

Rim paling often comes from light shock or shadowing dynamics. This species plates and creates self-shade; the edge may suddenly get higher PAR as it grows past the shade line. Reduce intensity 15–25% and extend photoperiod acclimation over 2–3 weeks. Keep NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.08 ppm to prevent starvation fade. Amino feeds at lights-out can help re-pigment the margin.

My chalice stings neighbors only at night—how far can Lithophyllon reach?

After dark it deploys short sweepers and occasional mesenterial filaments. Plan a 3–5 cm safety buffer for mellow LPS/zoas and 8–10 cm for aggressive corals. Flow can carry filaments farther, so reduce direct crossflow between rivals. If conflict starts, rotate the rock so the growth edge faces open water, and run a bit of fresh carbon to reduce allelopathic stress.

The edge is receding even though parameters look stable—what hidden causes affect this species?

Edge recession often ties to alk micro-swings and contact irritation. Keep dKH changes under 0.2/day and avoid fresh epoxy or putty touching tissue (it can cause chemical burn). Check for detritus trapped under the lip; gently baste weekly. If bacterial slime appears, perform an iodine dip, increase flow across the rim, and run UV temporarily to curb opportunists.

Does Lithophyllon respond to target feeding, or is light enough?

It’s photosynthetic but benefits from small-particle feeds. After lights out, offer rotifers, cyclops, or fine reef roids 1–2 times weekly; watch for subtle mouth puckering rather than long feeders. Consistent micro-feeding boosts rim growth and helps pigments under moderate light. Avoid heavy chunks that rot on the tissue, and keep export (skimming, mechanical) steady to prevent nutrient spikes.

TSA Citrus Blast Grafted Lithophyllon Coral

Encrusters Lithophyllon Grafted

Overview

Chalice Coral shows a thin, undulating plate with raised ridges and small mouths across the surface. Known scientifically as Lithophyllon undulatum, it is a hard plating stony coral that prefers low to moderate light and gentle to moderate water flow. It relies on symbiotic algae for energy but accepts occasional small particulate foods, which can support growth and color. Place on a stable ledge with space around it, as edges can shade neighbors and some specimens may extend short stinging sweeper tentacles at night.

Quick Facts

Care Moderate

Lighting Low–Moderate

Flow Low–Moderate

Placement Low–Mid

Temperament Semi-aggressive (3–6 inches spacing)

Recommended Parameters

Temp 76–80°F

pH 8.1–8.4

Salinity 1.025–1.026

Calcium 400–450 ppm

AlkAlkalinity 8–9.5 dKH

Magnesium 1280–1350 ppm

Feeding photosynthetic, microplankton, zooplankton, rotifers, cyclops, finely chopped mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, coral-specific powdered foods

Care & Placement

Chalice Coral (Lithophyllon undulatum) does best under stable, low to moderate light (50–100 PAR) and gentle, indirect flow that keeps detritus from settling without lifting tissue. Place on a stable ledge or lower rockwork; mid-level is fine if light is diffused. Avoid direct blasts from powerheads. Maintain temperature 24–26°C (75–79°F), salinity 1.025–1.026 (35 ppt), pH 8.1–8.4, alkalinity 8.0–9.5 dKH, calcium 400–450 ppm, magnesium 1280–1380 ppm, nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.08 ppm. Test weekly with reliable kits and a refractometer; prioritize stability over chasing exact numbers. This species is photosynthetic but benefits from target feeding 1–2 times weekly with small meaty foods (mysis, LPS pellets, fine coral foods). Feed after lights out when feeding tentacles appear; briefly pause pumps to reduce waste.Acclimate slowly: temperature match, drip acclimate, dip for pests, and light-acclimate by starting in shade and increasing exposure over 2–3 weeks. Provide 4–6 inches of space from neighbors; Chalice corals are semi‑aggressive and can deploy short sweepers or mesenterial filaments at night. Watch for bleaching (too much light), tissue recession at edges (instability, excessive flow, or starvation), and brown jelly infections; improve stability, adjust placement, and consider an iodine-based dip if needed. Keep the surface free of sand and debris, and mount horizontally so water can move across the face. Frag only healthy, growing margins with clean tools to prevent damage.

FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

About the TSA Citrus Blast Grafted Lithophyllon Coral

Why does my Lithophyllon undulatum lose color at the rim while the center stays bright?

Rim paling often comes from light shock or shadowing dynamics. This species plates and creates self-shade; the edge may suddenly get higher PAR as it grows past the shade line. Reduce intensity 15–25% and extend photoperiod acclimation over 2–3 weeks. Keep NO3 5–15 ppm, PO4 0.03–0.08 ppm to prevent starvation fade. Amino feeds at lights-out can help re-pigment the margin.
My chalice stings neighbors only at night—how far can Lithophyllon reach?

After dark it deploys short sweepers and occasional mesenterial filaments. Plan a 3–5 cm safety buffer for mellow LPS/zoas and 8–10 cm for aggressive corals. Flow can carry filaments farther, so reduce direct crossflow between rivals. If conflict starts, rotate the rock so the growth edge faces open water, and run a bit of fresh carbon to reduce allelopathic stress.
The edge is receding even though parameters look stable—what hidden causes affect this species?

Edge recession often ties to alk micro-swings and contact irritation. Keep dKH changes under 0.2/day and avoid fresh epoxy or putty touching tissue (it can cause chemical burn). Check for detritus trapped under the lip; gently baste weekly. If bacterial slime appears, perform an iodine dip, increase flow across the rim, and run UV temporarily to curb opportunists.
Does Lithophyllon respond to target feeding, or is light enough?

It’s photosynthetic but benefits from small-particle feeds. After lights out, offer rotifers, cyclops, or fine reef roids 1–2 times weekly; watch for subtle mouth puckering rather than long feeders. Consistent micro-feeding boosts rim growth and helps pigments under moderate light. Avoid heavy chunks that rot on the tissue, and keep export (skimming, mechanical) steady to prevent nutrient spikes.