Premium Onyx Picasso Clownfish

Premium Onyx Picasso Clownfish - Amphiprion percula

$99.99
Sale price  $99.99 Regular price 
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Premium Onyx Picasso Clownfish

Premium Onyx Picasso Clownfish - Amphiprion percula

$99.99
Sale price  $99.99 Regular price 

Goes well with:

Amphiprion percula (Picasso Variant)

Care Level Easy
Temperament Peaceful
Reef Safe Yes
Max Size 3 inches
Tank Size 20 gallons
Diet Omnivore
Common Name Picasso Clownfish
Origin Captive-Bred

Food

Pellets Mysis Shrimp Nori

Tags

Clownfish Reef Safe Omnivore

Diet & Feeding

Picasso Clownfish are omnivorous and require a varied diet to ensure optimal health. High-quality marine flake food, pellets, and frozen foods such as brine shrimp and mysis shrimp should be offered. Supplement their diet with occasional feedings of finely chopped seafood like shrimp or fish. Feed small amounts 2-3 times daily, ensuring all food is consumed within a few minutes to prevent water quality issues.

Behavior

Picasso Clownfish exhibit playful swimming patterns, often darting and weaving among coral structures. They are generally peaceful but can display territorial behavior, especially when paired or breeding. Socially, they thrive in small groups and often form symbiotic relationships with anemones. Compatibility with other fish is high, though caution is advised with aggressive species. They may become dominant in smaller tanks but are typically harmonious in larger, well-structured environments, where they establish clear boundaries.

FAQs

How can I maintain the bright coloration and distinct “Picasso” pattern on my Picasso Clownfish over time?
Color and pattern are largely genetic and set as the fish matures, so you can’t change the pattern, but you can keep colors rich by providing stable, high water quality (0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, nitrate under ~20 ppm), varied nutrition (quality marine pellets, frozen mysis, enriched brine, krill, and occasional nori), and low chronic stress (no aggressive tankmates, stable temperature 24–26 °C / 75–79 °F, low swings in salinity). Strong, full‑spectrum lighting helps with visual appearance and health of any host corals or anemones that indirectly support the clown, but the fish itself doesn’t require intense reef lighting to stay colorful.
Do Picasso Clownfish have any special compatibility issues compared to regular Ocellaris/False Percula clowns, especially when pairing them or mixing with other clowns?
Picassos are a designer form of Amphiprion percula (or percula‑type hybrids depending on the line), so the same pairing rules apply: keep only one pair per tank unless you have a very large system with careful planning. They can be more territorial than tank‑bred Ocellaris, so avoid mixing them with other species or designer clowns in small to medium tanks. For a pair, start with two juveniles of different size, or add a smaller juvenile to an established adult female. Avoid trying to “upgrade” a pair by adding another Picasso or designer clown later; this often causes serious fighting and injuries.
Are there any special care considerations for Picasso Clownfish hosting in high‑value anemones or LPS corals, such as Euphyllia, in a reef tank?
Picassos can be quite rough with host anemones and large‑polyp corals. If hosting an anemone (like Entacmaea quadricolor), ensure the anemone is well established, firmly attached, and healthy before adding the clown or encouraging hosting. For Euphyllia (torch, hammer, frogspawn), watch for tissue recession or skeleton exposure where the clown repeatedly rubs. If you see damage, use a “decoy” host (a fake anemone, large soft coral, or robust leather coral) or rearrange rockwork so the clown is less focused on the sensitive coral. Keep flow moderate and stable; stressed or newly introduced anemones should not have clown contact until fully inflated and settled.
Why is my Picasso Clownfish “twitching” or shaking its body when approaching another clown or certain tankmates? Is this a disease sign?
That twitching or “seizure‑like” shimmy is normal submission behavior in clownfish, not a disease. A smaller or less dominant clown will perform this to signal it accepts the other fish as dominant, which reduces fighting and helps establish the pair bond. It’s usually brief and occurs during interactions, not continuously. As long as the fish eats well, shows no spots, frayed fins, flashing, or rapid breathing, this is normal social behavior, especially when a pair is forming or hierarchy is being reinforced.
Do Picasso Clownfish lines (e.g., Grade A, Grade B, Premium) differ in hardiness or behavior, and should that affect how I set up their tank?
The grading (A, B, Premium, etc.) only refers to pattern and symmetry of the white bars and does not reliably indicate health or hardiness. However, some designer lines come from more intensive inbreeding, which can make certain batches more sensitive to poor water quality or stress. For high‑value Picassos, aim for a well‑cycled tank of at least 20–30 gallons for a pair, stable parameters (SG 1.024–1.026, temperature 24–26 °C, pH 8.0–8.4), and gentle acclimation (drip acclimation over 30–45 minutes). Choose reputable breeders or vendors who show the fish eating vigorously and swimming normally; behavior and body condition are much more important than pattern grade for long‑term success.
Description
You will receive a fish SIMILAR in design and size to the fish in the photo. This is NOT a WYSIWYG fish.
Approx. Size: 1.25" to 2"

Premium Onyx Picassos are Onyx Picassos that have both extra black coloration, and enough white barring so the second and third bars are merged on both sides of the fish.
    • Adaptability to Aquarium Life: Clownfish are well-suited for captivity due to their hardy nature and ability to adapt to various tank environments, making them popular among both novice and experienced aquarists.

    • Symbiotic Relationship with Anemones: In captivity, clownfish often form symbiotic relationships with anemones, similar to their behavior in the wild. Providing anemones in the tank can enhance the well-being and natural behavior of clownfish.

    • Breeding and Conservation: Clownfish are relatively easy to breed in captivity, contributing to their conservation by reducing the need for wild-caught specimens. Successful captive breeding programs help maintain healthy populations and alleviate pressure on wild clownfish populations.

Introduction to Saltwater Clownfish

Clownfish are among the most popular and recognizable marine fish, known for their bright colors, hardy nature, and fascinating symbiotic relationships with anemones. Native to tropical reefs in the Indo-Pacific, these fish thrive in reef aquariums of all sizes, making them an excellent choice for both beginners and experienced aquarists. Clownfish are incredibly adaptable, and many aquacultured varieties are available, making them easier to care for and less aggressive than wild-caught specimens.

Care Requirements

Care Level: Easy Minimum Tank Size: 20 – 50+ gallons Ocellaris & Percula Clownfish – 20+ gallons (smaller and more peaceful) Maroon Clownfish & Larger Varieties – 50+ gallons (more aggressive, need more space) Aquarium Setup: Prefers rock structures for hiding and stable water conditions.

Diet & Nutrition

Clownfish are omnivores and thrive on a varied diet that includes both meaty and plant-based foods. Diet: Omnivorous – Eats a mix of proteins and algae

Recommended Foods:

High-quality marine pellets and flakes Frozen mysis and brine shrimp Chopped seafood and enriched frozen foods Algae-based foods (spirulina, seaweed sheets) Feeding small portions 1-2 times per day ensures optimal health, vibrant coloration, and proper growth.

Lifespan & Growth Rate

Lifespan: 6-10+ years Growth Rate: Moderate – Most species reach 2-6 inches depending on the variety With proper care, clownfish can live over a decade in captivity, making them a long-term commitment for aquarists.

Temperament & Compatibility

Temperament: Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive – Can become territorial as they mature Reef Safe? Yes – Clownfish do not harm corals or invertebrates Clownfish are peaceful fish but may become territorial as they establish their space, especially when paired with an anemone. To ensure compatibility: Best kept in pairs or small groups—but avoid mixing different clownfish species in small tanks. Introduce them before more aggressive fish to help them establish their territory. Compatible with most reef-safe community fish, including wrasses, gobies, and tangs.

Common Challenges & Considerations

Aggression in Larger Species: Maroon Clownfish and Tomato Clownfish can be highly territorial and may bully tankmates. Hosting with Anemones: While not required, clownfish may form a symbiotic bond with certain anemones like Bubble Tip Anemones (Entacmaea quadricolor). However, not all clownfish will host anemones in captivity. Jumping Risk: Clownfish can jump out of open-top tanks, so a lid or mesh cover is recommended. Water Conditions Temperature: 74-80°F dKH (Alkalinity): 8-12 pH: 8.1-8.4 Specific Gravity: 1.020-1.025 Clownfish are hardy and adaptable, but stable water parameters are essential for long-term health.

Color Varieties & Popular Species

Clownfish come in a wide variety of colors and patterns, with many aquacultured morphs available. Some of the most popular species include: Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) – Classic "Nemo" appearance, available in wild-type and designer morphs Percula Clownfish (Amphiprion percula) – Similar to Ocellaris but with brighter colors and thicker black outlines Maroon Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus) – Deep red coloration, highly territorial and best kept alone or in pairs Snowflake Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris variant) – White and orange designer morph with irregular banding

SKU: CLOWNxPOPicasso

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