Longnose Hawkfish

Longnose Hawkfish - Oxycirrhites typus

$83.99
Sale price  $83.99 Regular price 
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Longnose Hawkfish

Longnose Hawkfish - Oxycirrhites typus

$83.99
Sale price  $83.99 Regular price 
SKU: HAWKxLongnose

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Diet
Pellets Mysis Finely Chopped Seafood
Min Tank Size 40 gallons
Temperament Semi-Aggressive
Reef Safe With Caution
Overview Quick summary and key facts about this species.

Overview:
The Longnose Hawkfish is a captivating marine species known for its distinctive elongated snout and vibrant red and white patterning. Native to the Indo-Pacific region, it thrives in reef environments. In captivity, it requires a well-established aquarium of at least 30 gallons, with plenty of live rock for hiding and perching. The tank should have stable water parameters: a temperature of 72-78°F, pH of 8.1-8.4, and specific gravity of 1.020-1.025. Adequate filtration and regular water changes are essential to maintain water quality. This species is known for its jumping ability, so a secure lid is necessary to prevent escape.

Compatibility:
Longnose Hawkfish are generally peaceful but can exhibit territorial behavior, especially towards other hawkfish. They are best kept with similarly sized, non-aggressive tankmates. Suitable companions include clownfish, gobies, and tangs. Avoid housing them with small invertebrates like shrimp, as they may be seen as prey. Exercise caution when introducing new fish, and ensure there are ample hiding spots to reduce stress and territorial disputes.

Health and Quarantine:
Longnose Hawkfish are hardy but can be susceptible to common marine diseases such as ich and marine velvet. Implementing a quarantine period of 2-4 weeks for new additions is crucial to prevent the introduction of pathogens. During quarantine, monitor for signs of illness, such as white spots, rapid breathing, or lethargy. Maintain optimal water conditions and provide a balanced diet to support their immune system. Regularly inspect their environment for any sharp objects that could damage their delicate skin. If health issues arise, consult a veterinarian experienced in marine fish for appropriate treatment options.

Care & Diet Feeding, nutrition, and best practices.

Diet Type: Carnivore

Longnose Hawkfish are carnivorous and require a protein-rich diet. In the wild, they feed on small crustaceans and fish. In an aquarium setting, they should be offered a varied diet consisting of live or frozen foods such as mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and finely chopped seafood like shrimp or fish. Supplement their diet with high-quality marine pellets or flakes designed for carnivores. Feed them small amounts 2-3 times daily, ensuring they consume the food within a few minutes to prevent waste and maintain water quality.

Pellets Mysis Finely Chopped Seafood
Behavior Temperament, activity level, and interactions.

Temperament: Semi-Aggressive

Longnose Hawkfish exhibit a hovering swimming style, often perching on corals or rocks. They are solitary and territorial, defending their space aggressively, especially towards other hawkfish. Compatible with non-aggressive species, they can coexist with larger, peaceful fish but may harass smaller, timid ones. They prefer environments with plenty of hiding spots and will retreat when threatened. Primarily carnivorous, they hunt small invertebrates and fish, showing a preference for live prey. Their unique swimming and perching behavior make them a fascinating addition to marine aquariums.

Tank & Aquascape Tank requirements and aquascaping tips.
Min Tank Size
40 gallons
Max Size
5 inches
Care Level
Easy
Origin
Indonesia
Compatibility Tank mates, aggression, and introduction order.
Temperament
Semi-Aggressive
Reef Safe
With Caution
Hawkfish Reef Safe With Caution Carnivore
Reef & Health Reef safety, common issues, and prevention.
Reef Safe
With Caution
Care Level
Easy
FAQs Answers to the most common questions.
Can Longnose Hawkfish safely be kept with ornamental shrimp, and if so, which species are least likely to be eaten?

Longnose Hawkfish are opportunistic predators and will usually eat small ornamental shrimp once they’re established and comfortable. Tiny shrimp such as Sexy Shrimp (Thor amboinensis), Peppermint Shrimp, and small juvenile cleaner shrimp are at high risk. Large, well-established Cleaner Shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis), Blood Shrimp (Lysmata debelius), and big adult Coral Banded Shrimp (Stenopus hispidus) may coexist longer, but there is never a guarantee; a hungry or bold hawkfish can still attack them, especially at night. If you want to try pairing them, introduce the shrimp first, let them grow and settle in, then add a smaller hawkfish last, and keep them well fed with frequent small meaty meals. Still, be prepared to lose shrimp at some point.

How much rock structure and what kind of perching spots does a Longnose Hawkfish need to feel secure and show natural behavior?

Longnose Hawkfish thrive in a rockwork layout with multiple high perches and branching structures. Aim for a good amount of porous live rock that reaches at least the upper third of the tank, with ledges, overhangs, and branching elements like real or artificial gorgonians or staghorn-style rock/frag racks. They like to sit near strong flow areas where food passes by, so position some perches near your powerhead current paths. At least 4–6 distinct perching spots at different heights works well, including one near the surface and one near the front glass so you can observe them. Tall, open rock “towers” combined with a couple of horizontal shelves lets them move and watch the tank without feeling exposed.

Do Longnose Hawkfish jump, and what specific lid design is needed to keep them from escaping?

Longnose Hawkfish are strong, deliberate jumpers, especially when startled, chased, or during lights-on/off transitions. A loose canopy or partial glass cover is usually not enough. Use a tight-fitting lid that covers 100% of the tank footprint, including overflows and cutouts for plumbing and cables. Mesh tops should use 1/4" (6 mm) or smaller clear netting; avoid larger openings that they can shoot through at an angle. Check that feeding ports have sliding or hinged covers that stay closed when not in use, and block any small gaps around light brackets with acrylic strips or weatherstripping. Since hawkfish often sit high in the rockwork close to the surface, they are more likely than many fish to clear short rims when startled.

My Longnose Hawkfish refuses to eat pellets or flakes and only picks at frozen food. How can I train it onto prepared foods without starving it?

Start by offering a variety of meaty frozen foods it already accepts, such as mysis shrimp, finely chopped krill, and small pieces of shrimp or clam. Once it’s eating aggressively, gradually mix in a small amount of high-quality marine pellets or flakes soaked together with the thawed frozen food in the same cup so the scents mingle. Feed with a turkey baster or pipette directly near its perch, first giving mostly frozen with only a couple of pellets. Over a week or two, slowly increase the proportion of pellets/flakes while decreasing frozen. Hawkfish often learn by association and will snap at anything drifting with the “good smell.” You can also use moving foods like floating sticks or sinking pellets dropped into the current so they look like prey. Feed small amounts 2–3 times daily so it gets multiple chances to experiment, but monitor body condition; if it starts to lose weight, temporarily increase frozen again so it maintains weight during training.

What is the minimum tank size for a Longnose Hawkfish, and does tank shape or height matter for this species?

A single Longnose Hawkfish is best kept in at least a 30-gallon tank, but tank shape matters. They don’t need a lot of horizontal swimming room like tangs, but they use vertical space and elevated perches constantly. A tank that is at least 18" (45 cm) tall with rockwork reaching upwards suits them better than a very shallow, shallow “lagoon” style footprint of the same volume. In smaller systems (around 30 gallons), choose a layout that provides multiple vertical levels and clear lines of sight from perch to perch, with moderate to strong flow. For community setups with other semi-aggressive or similarly sized fish, 40–55 gallons or larger gives them more territory choices and reduces squabbling. Long, low frag tanks can work if you build tall rock pillars or gorgonian “trees,” but a standard rectangular tank with decent height is usually more comfortable for this species.

Goes well with:

You will receive a fish SIMILAR in design and size to the fish in the photo. This is NOT a WYSIWYG fish.

Description
You will receive a fish SIMILAR in design and size to the fish in the photo. This is NOT a WYSIWYG fish.

Approx. Size: 2-4 Inches

Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus)

The Longnose Hawkfish is a standout reef fish with a distinctive elongated snout and an eye-catching red and white crosshatch pattern. Found perching among gorgonians and branching corals in the wild, they bring a mix of charm, color, and quirky behavior to any saltwater aquarium. Their alert expressions and perching habits make them a true favorite among aquarists.

Tank Requirements

Longnose Hawkfish do well in aquariums of 30 gallons or more, ideally with plenty of live rock, branching coral structures, or aquascaping that mimics their natural perching spots. A tight-fitting lid is important, as they are capable jumpers, especially when startled.

Unique Perching Behavior

True to their name, Longnose Hawkfish perch on rock ledges or coral branches, watching everything around them with keen awareness. Their long snouts help them probe into crevices for food, and their behavior is a constant source of entertainment for reef keepers.

Diet and Feeding

Carnivorous by nature, Longnose Hawkfish enjoy a protein-rich diet. Offer a variety of meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, chopped seafood, and high-quality frozen blends. They generally adapt well to prepared foods and benefit from a varied feeding routine.

Tankmates and Behavior

Longnose Hawkfish are semi-aggressive and best kept with similarly sized or larger tankmates. While they are typically reef-safe with corals, they may pose a risk to small ornamental shrimp or very small fish. They are best housed solo unless kept in a large enough system to accommodate a mated pair.

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