{"title":"Saltwater Invertebrates","description":"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eEmbellish and aid your Saltwater Aquarium with Invertebrates! Our diverse selection not only adds vibrancy but also functions as a natural cleanup crew, maintaining the cleanliness and health of your tank. Explore a wide range of options, from crabs and snails to shrimp, urchins, starfish, and more, to bring life and balance to your aquatic environment.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003cp data-topshelf-glossary-link\u003eBuild a compatible clean-up crew with the identification, diet, and reef-safety profiles in our \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/invert-glossary\"\u003esaltwater invertebrate glossary\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"arrow-crab","title":"Arrow Crab","description":"\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eArrow Crabs are one of the more bizarre-looking crustaceans in the reefing hobby. These strange animals, while seemingly thin and harmless, are actually quite efficient predators and can make for unique clean-up-crew members. Most commonly kept to help deal with large bristleworm populations, these crabs are highly opportunistic predators. Unfortunately, arrow crabs generally do not make for good long-term reef inhabitants. In the absence of enough food to scavenge on, arrow crabs are well-known to scavenge on small invertebrates, corals, and even smaller fishes, given the opportunity. Arrow crabs are likely to thrive in larger systems where there may be more opportunities to forage throughout the day.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Semi-Aggressive (predatory)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivorous Scavenger\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e With caution\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e Leg span up to about 6 inches\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caribbean and Western Atlantic\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eStenorhynchus seticornis\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eArrow crabs need plenty of rockwork to climb, with open areas where they can move their long, thin legs freely. Larger aquariums with abundant live rock provide more natural foraging and help reduce predation on tankmates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eArrow crabs are best known for hunting bristleworms, but they also scavenge leftover food. Target-feed mysis, chopped seafood, or sinking pellets three to four times per week. A well-fed arrow crab is much less likely to go after tankmates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep only one arrow crab per tank, since they fight with each other. Feather dusters, small ornamental shrimp, nudibranchs, and small or slow fish are at risk.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eArrow crabs do well with medium to large, active fish such as tangs, angelfish, and larger wrasses. Avoid triggerfish, puffers, and hawkfish, which may prey on them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Arrow Crab is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe with caution\u003c\/strong\u003e. It generally ignores stony corals, but a hungry crab may pick at soft coral polyps or small invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAcclimate slowly and keep conditions stable to support molting. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOne per tank:\u003c\/strong\u003e Arrow crabs are territorial toward their own kind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot for feather duster tanks:\u003c\/strong\u003e They are well known to eat feather duster worms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeed it regularly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Consistent feeding keeps predatory behavior in check.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGreat bristleworm control:\u003c\/strong\u003e Useful in systems with large bristleworm populations.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117712875818,"sku":"CRABxArrow","price":22.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-arrow-crab-1146290910.webp?v=1770223326"},{"product_id":"blue-coral-banded-shrimp","title":"Blue Coral Banded Shrimp","description":"\u003cp data-topshelf-wwc\u003eThe Blue Coral Banded Shrimp (\u003cem\u003eStenopus\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is an Indo-Pacific boxer shrimp with the same bold, territorial personality as the classic \u003ca href=\"\/products\/coral-banded-shrimp\"\u003eCoral Banded Shrimp\u003c\/a\u003e. It is reef safe and moderate to care for. Read the \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/saltwater-invertebrates\/blue-coral-banded-shrimp\"\u003eBlue Coral Banded Shrimp care guide\u003c\/a\u003e before adding one to a tank with other shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAlso known as the blue boxer shrimp or purple coral banded shrimp, \u003cem\u003eStenopus tenuirostris\u003c\/em\u003e is a rarer and more colorful relative of the classic coral banded shrimp. Its body shines in deep blue to violet, while its long claws carry bold red-and-white bands and its antennae trail out in fine white strands.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSmaller and more reclusive than the common coral banded shrimp, it spends much of the day in the shadows of caves and overhangs. At dusk it emerges to scavenge, and it will sometimes clean passing fish, making it a rewarding centerpiece invertebrate for a peaceful reef.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 20 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Territorial\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivorous Scavenger\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes, with caution toward small shrimp\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e About 1.5–2 inches\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eStenopus tenuirostris\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOffer an established aquarium with plenty of caves, ledges, and shaded overhangs. This shrimp claims a home base and stays close to it, so a secure retreat is essential for it to feel comfortable enough to come out during feeding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStable water quality is important, particularly during molts. The shrimp may hide for a day or two while its new shell hardens.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFeed small portions of mysis, chopped shrimp, krill, clam, and quality sinking pellets three to four times per week. Target-feeding near its cave with tongs or a baster ensures the shrimp gets its share, since it is shyer than most tankmates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eKeep only one Blue Coral Banded Shrimp per tank unless you have a mated pair. Like other \u003cem\u003eStenopus\u003c\/em\u003e species, it can be aggressive toward other banded shrimp and may harass smaller cleaner shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt is best housed with peaceful fish. Avoid hawkfish, lionfish, triggerfish, puffers, and large wrasses.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis shrimp is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e with corals and clams. Its territorial nature toward other small shrimp is the main compatibility concern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrip acclimate over 45–60 minutes and keep salinity steady. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMore reclusive than other banded shrimp:\u003c\/strong\u003e Expect it to spend daylight hours near its cave.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOne per tank:\u003c\/strong\u003e Mixing banded shrimp often leads to fighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTarget-feed:\u003c\/strong\u003e Direct feeding keeps this shy shrimp in good condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolts are normal:\u003c\/strong\u003e A shed exoskeleton is a healthy sign, not a dead shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117713432874,"sku":"SHRIMPxBlueCB","price":69.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-blue-coral-banded-shrimp-1146291420.webp?v=1770744742"},{"product_id":"candy-cane-pistol-shrimp","title":"Candy Cane Pistol Shrimp","description":"\u003cp\u003eCandy Cane Pistol Shrimp are fascinating additions to saltwater aquariums due to their bright red and white banding, unique clicking behavior, and ability to form a symbiotic relationship with certain shrimp gobies. Also known as Red Banded Pistol Shrimp or Randall’s Pistol Shrimp, Alpheus randalli are small, reef safe burrowing shrimp that spend much of their time constructing and maintaining tunnels beneath rockwork. Their oversized claw can produce an audible “snap,” which is used for defense, communication, and stunning small prey. Candy Cane Pistol Shrimp are peaceful toward most tankmates, but they should be kept with care in aquariums containing very small ornamental shrimp or delicate bottom-dwelling invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Candy Cane Pistol Shrimp (Goby-Pairing Burrow Builder \u0026amp; Reef Aquarium Favorite)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCandy Cane Pistol Shrimp (Alpheus randalli) are highly sought-after pistol shrimp known for their bold red and white striped pattern and their natural partnership with shrimp gobies. In the aquarium, they will often create a burrow system under rockwork and may share that burrow with compatible gobies such as Yasha Gobies, Hi Fin Red Banded Gobies, or Randall’s Prawn Gobies. The shrimp maintains the burrow while the goby acts as a lookout, creating one of the most interesting natural behaviors available in a reef aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Hardy when kept in a stable, established aquarium\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires a sand bed, secure rockwork, and caves or crevices for burrowing\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCandy Cane Pistol Shrimp do best in mature aquariums with stable water quality and a sand bed deep enough for burrow construction. Rockwork should be placed securely on the bottom of the aquarium or otherwise stabilized, as the shrimp may dig underneath rocks while building tunnels. They are usually secretive at first and may spend most of their time near the entrance of their burrow, especially when paired with a goby.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCandy Cane Pistol Shrimp are carnivorous scavengers that feed on meaty foods and leftover foods that reach the substrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Carnivorous – Prefers small meaty foods and sinking prepared foods\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eFrozen mysis shrimp\u003cbr\u003eBrine shrimp\u003cbr\u003eFinely chopped seafood\u003cbr\u003eSinking carnivore pellets\u003cbr\u003eSmall meaty leftovers from regular fish feedings\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen paired with a goby, they may also share food within the burrow. Target feeding near the burrow entrance can help ensure the shrimp receives enough food, especially in tanks with fast or aggressive fish that consume food before it reaches the bottom.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 2-4+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate – Can grow up to about 2 inches\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCandy Cane Pistol Shrimp remain a manageable size for most reef aquariums. Like other shrimp, they must molt in order to grow, so stable salinity, alkalinity, iodine, and trace element levels are important for long-term health.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Generally safe with fish, corals, and most invertebrates\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? Yes – Does not harm corals, but may rearrange sand near its burrow\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCandy Cane Pistol Shrimp are considered reef safe and are excellent candidates for peaceful reef aquariums. They are best kept with compatible shrimp gobies, but they can also be kept alone. Avoid housing them with aggressive predators such as triggers, puffers, hawkfish, large wrasses, large crabs, or other animals that may harass or eat shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBurrowing Behavior: Candy Cane Pistol Shrimp will dig under rocks and may move sand while building tunnels.\u003cbr\u003eRockwork Must Be Secure: Unstable rocks can shift if the shrimp excavates underneath them.\u003cbr\u003eClicking Sounds: Their snapping claw can produce loud clicking noises, which are normal and not usually a cause for concern.\u003cbr\u003eMay Be Reclusive: They may spend most of their time near their burrow, especially when first introduced.\u003cbr\u003ePotential Risk to Tiny Shrimp: While usually peaceful, very small ornamental shrimp or delicate invertebrates may be at risk in close quarters.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like all marine shrimp, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, provide a sand bed, stable rockwork, peaceful tankmates, and occasional target feeding near the burrow entrance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":52065135198506,"sku":"SHRIMPxCandyPist","price":39.94,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-candy-cane-pistol-shrimp-small-1250940634.png?v=1784920930"},{"product_id":"caribbean-sea-cucumber","title":"Caribbean Sea Cucumber","description":"\u003cp\u003eCaribbean Sea Cucumbers are unique and beneficial additions to mature saltwater aquariums due to their ability to process detritus, organic matter, and fine food particles from the sand bed. Also known as Florida Sea Cucumbers, Holothuria floridana spend much of their time moving slowly across sandy areas while ingesting substrate, extracting nutrients, and leaving behind cleaner sand. Their natural feeding behavior makes them useful for established aquariums with large, mature sand beds, but they should only be kept in systems that can provide enough natural food and stable water quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Caribbean Sea Cucumber (Sand-Sifting Detritivore \u0026amp; Mature Reef Cleanup Crew Animal)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaribbean Sea Cucumbers (Holothuria floridana) are large, peaceful detritivores found in shallow Western Atlantic and Caribbean habitats, including sandy bottoms, seagrass beds, and reef-associated areas. In the aquarium, they help recycle organic material by slowly grazing across the substrate and consuming detritus, leftover foods, microalgae, bacteria, and other fine organic particles. While they can be very useful in the right system, they are not ideal for new, small, or overly clean aquariums due to their specialized feeding needs and sensitivity to poor handling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Moderate to Expert – Best for mature aquariums with stable parameters and established sand beds\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 75+ gallons, larger preferred for adult specimens\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires a large, mature sand bed, open substrate areas, stable water quality, and protected pumps or overflows\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaribbean Sea Cucumbers do best in established saltwater aquariums with a deep or expansive sand bed that naturally collects detritus and organic material. They should not be added to newly established tanks or bare-bottom systems, as they rely heavily on the sand bed for feeding. Powerheads, overflow intakes, and pump openings should be covered or guarded to prevent injury.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaribbean Sea Cucumbers are detritivorous sand sifters that feed by processing sand and extracting organic material.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Detritivore – Consumes detritus, microalgae, bacteria, leftover foods, and fine organic particles from the sand bed\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eNaturally occurring detritus in mature sand beds\u003cbr\u003eFine organic material and microalgae in the substrate\u003cbr\u003eSmall sinking foods that settle into the sand\u003cbr\u003eOccasional supplemental powdered or finely crushed marine foods if natural food sources are low\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaribbean Sea Cucumbers should not be expected to survive in aquariums with sterile sand beds or minimal nutrients. If the aquarium is too clean, they may slowly starve. Their body should remain full and firm, not shrunken or thin.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 3-5+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Slow to Moderate – Can become large, with adult specimens reaching substantial size\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaribbean Sea Cucumbers can grow much larger than many common cleanup crew invertebrates and should be housed with their adult size in mind. Larger aquariums with mature sand beds are strongly recommended to provide enough long-term grazing area.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaribbean Sea Cucumbers can be highly variable in appearance, which is part of what makes them such interesting additions to mature saltwater aquariums. Their coloration may range from tan, brown, gray, olive, reddish, or nearly black, often with mottled, speckled, or uneven patterning across the body. Some individuals may appear lighter or darker depending on age, stress level, diet, substrate, lighting, or natural regional variation. Because of this natural variability, each Caribbean Sea Cucumber may look noticeably different from another, even when they are the same species.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Does not bother fish, corals, or most peaceful invertebrates\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? Yes, with caution – Reef safe under normal conditions, but can release toxins if severely stressed, injured, or killed\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaribbean Sea Cucumbers are peaceful and do not intentionally harm corals or fish. However, they should not be housed with aggressive or predatory tankmates that may bite, harass, or damage them. Avoid triggers, puffers, large wrasses, large crabs, aggressive shrimp, and any fish known to pick at soft-bodied invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRequires a Mature Sand Bed: Caribbean Sea Cucumbers need an established substrate with enough detritus and organic material to support long-term feeding.\u003cbr\u003eNot for New or Small Tanks: Young aquariums, bare-bottom systems, and overly clean tanks usually cannot provide enough food.\u003cbr\u003eToxin Risk if Injured: Like many sea cucumbers, they may release harmful compounds if severely stressed, injured, or killed.\u003cbr\u003eProtect Pumps \u0026amp; Overflows: Powerheads and intakes should be covered to prevent the cucumber from being injured or pulled in.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like all marine invertebrates, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Parameter Swings: Sudden changes in salinity, temperature, pH, or alkalinity can cause stress.\u003cbr\u003eCan Move Sand: Their natural feeding behavior may shift or disturb areas of the sand bed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, keep them only in mature aquariums, cover pump intakes, acclimate carefully, avoid aggressive tankmates, and monitor body condition to ensure they are receiving enough food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117716447530,"sku":"CUCMBRxCarib","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-caribbean-sea-cucumber-1250935144.png?v=1784913730"},{"product_id":"coco-worm-feather-duster","title":"Coco Worm Feather Duster","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eFeather Dusters, as they are commonly known in the hobby, are an extremely common species of marine tube worm that occur in marine environments worldwide. These animals are highly unique and are among the most popular filter feeders in the hobby. Living in a tube which they secrete themselves, feather dusters, while not capable of sight, are highly aware of their immediate environment and the flow of surrounding water. Coco Worms are unique among Feather Dusters in that they secrete a calcareous tube rather than a soft, papery one. \u003c\/span\u003eUnlike some other typical filter feeders (clams, sponges, etc.) that force water through their body to filter out food, Feather Dusters hunt for food by sprawling out their feeding tentacles and simply using their high surface area to comb through the surrounding water as it flows by, capturing small particles of food and planktonic organisms as they do. These animals do best in an established aquarium with an abundance of copepods, amphipods and other microfauna. Additionally, feather dusters do best when regularly fed a diet of broadcasted planktonic foods, such as rotifers, phytoplankton, R.O.E. and copepods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e***\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eSome larger predatory fishes, such as wrasses and butterflyfish, may harass or consume the external appendages of feathers dusters.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Regular","offer_id":50683438367018,"sku":"DUSTERxCocoWorm","price":104.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":50683438399786,"sku":"DUSTERxCCWorm","price":119.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-coco-worm-feather-duster-1232068691.png?v=1776021999"},{"product_id":"decorator-crab","title":"Spider Decorator Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003eSpider Decorator Crabs are fascinating ornamental crabs known for their unusual body shape, long spider-like legs, and unique decorating behavior. Also known as Camposcia Decorator Crabs, Camposcia retusa use pieces of algae, sponge, soft coral, rubble, and other available materials to camouflage their body. This natural behavior makes them one of the most interesting invertebrates to observe in a saltwater aquarium, but it also means they should be kept with caution in reef systems. Spider Decorator Crabs may pick up or attach small pieces of coral, macroalgae, sponge, or other sessile invertebrates, making them better suited for mature aquariums where their behavior can be monitored.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Spider Decorator Crab (Camouflaging Scavenger \u0026amp; Unique Display Invertebrate)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpider Decorator Crabs (Camposcia retusa) are unique marine crabs from the Majidae family, a group well known for decorating their bodies with material from the surrounding environment. In the wild, this behavior helps them blend into rocky reef, rubble, algae, and sponge-covered habitats. In the aquarium, they may collect pieces of macroalgae, sponge, zoanthids, soft corals, or other small materials and attach them to hooked hairs on their body for camouflage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis behavior is the main appeal of the species, but it is also the main reason they are considered reef safe with caution rather than fully reef safe. They are not aggressive predators, but they are opportunistic and may disturb corals, loose frags, or small decorative invertebrates while foraging or decorating themselves.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy to Moderate – Hardy, but best for aquariums where their decorating behavior can be managed\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 30+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires live rock, caves, crevices, rubble areas, and stable reef parameters\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpider Decorator Crabs do best in mature saltwater aquariums with plenty of rockwork and hiding places. They are often more active at night or in lower-light areas and may spend time tucked into rockwork during the day. Because they may collect materials from their surroundings, they are best kept in aquariums where loose frags, delicate corals, and small sessile invertebrates are secured or not easily accessible.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpider Decorator Crabs are omnivorous scavengers that feed on algae, detritus, leftover foods, and meaty items.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Omnivorous – Eats algae, detritus, leftover food, sponge material, and small meaty foods\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eNaturally occurring algae and detritus\u003cbr\u003eLeftover fish food\u003cbr\u003eDried seaweed or nori\u003cbr\u003eAlgae wafers\u003cbr\u003eFrozen mysis shrimp\u003cbr\u003eBrine shrimp\u003cbr\u003eFinely chopped seafood\u003cbr\u003eSmall sinking carnivore or omnivore pellets\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough Spider Decorator Crabs will scavenge throughout the aquarium, they should not be expected to survive only on scraps. Offering supplemental foods can help keep them healthy and may reduce excessive picking at decorative organisms or coral tissue.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 2-4+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate – Can reach several inches across when leg span is included\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpider Decorator Crabs grow by molting and require stable water parameters to molt successfully. After molting, they may hide while their new exoskeleton hardens. Maintaining stable salinity, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, and trace elements will help support long-term health.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful to Semi-Peaceful – Generally non-aggressive, but opportunistic while foraging and decorating\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? With caution – May collect, disturb, or attach pieces of soft coral, zoanthids, sponge, macroalgae, or other sessile invertebrates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSpider Decorator Crabs are best suited for peaceful aquariums with secure rockwork and carefully selected tankmates. They should not be kept with aggressive crab predators such as triggers, puffers, hawkfish, large wrasses, large crabs, or other animals that may pick at or eat crabs. In coral-heavy reef aquariums, they should be monitored closely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDecorating Behavior: Spider Decorator Crabs may attach algae, sponge, soft corals, zoanthids, or other materials to their body.\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe With Caution: They may disturb corals, small sessile invertebrates, or loose frags while decorating or foraging.\u003cbr\u003eCan Be Nocturnal: They may hide during the day and become more active after lights out.\u003cbr\u003eNeeds Stable Rockwork: Their long legs and climbing behavior can disturb loose frags or lightweight decorations.\u003cbr\u003eOpportunistic Feeding: They may pick at weakened organisms, leftover meaty foods, or available organic material.\u003cbr\u003eMolting Sensitivity: Sudden changes in salinity, pH, or alkalinity can cause stress during molting.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like all marine crabs, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, acclimate them carefully, provide plenty of hiding places, secure loose corals and frags, feed regularly, avoid copper exposure, and monitor their behavior in reef aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":50750688559402,"sku":"CRABxDecorator","price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-spider-decorator-crab-1251806514.png?v=1785518798"},{"product_id":"electric-blue-hermit-crab","title":"Electric Blue Hermit Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Electric Blue Hermit Crab (\u003cem\u003eCalcinus elegans\u003c\/em\u003e), also sold as the Electric Blue Leg Hermit or Elegant Hermit Crab, is one of the most striking hermits in the reef hobby. It is beloved for its black legs banded in vivid electric blue and its bright orange antennae, a combination that stands out against rockwork and sand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNative to reefs across the tropical Indo-Pacific, this hermit grows larger than common blue leg and red leg hermits. It earns its place in the cleanup crew by grazing nuisance algae and scavenging uneaten food, while adding far more color than a typical cleanup crab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 20 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes, with caution\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e About 1–1.5 inches\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eCalcinus elegans\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProvide an established aquarium with plenty of live rock to climb and graze, plus open sand to scavenge. Keep several empty shells on hand, each slightly larger than the crab’s current home, so it can move up in size as it grows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause of its larger size, this hermit may occasionally topple small or unsecured coral frags. Glue frags in place before adding it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eElectric Blue Hermits are omnivorous. They pick at film algae, hair algae, and detritus, and quickly find leftover meaty foods on the sand or rockwork. When algae runs low, supplement with dried seaweed, algae wafers, or sinking pellets two to three times per week.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThese hermits are generally peaceful with fish and corals. Without enough empty shells, they may attack snails to take over their shells, so providing spare shells is the best way to protect your snail population.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAvoid triggerfish, puffers, hawkfish, and large wrasses, which may prey on hermit crabs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Electric Blue Hermit Crab is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe with caution\u003c\/strong\u003e. It does not eat corals, but its size and activity can dislodge loose frags, and it may compete with snails for shells.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAcclimate slowly and keep parameters stable to support healthy molting. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProvide spare shells:\u003c\/strong\u003e Offer three to five empty shells per crab in sizes slightly larger than its current shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProtect your snails:\u003c\/strong\u003e Hermits without spare shells may kill snails for theirs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSecure frags:\u003c\/strong\u003e Larger hermits can knock over unattached corals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting is normal:\u003c\/strong\u003e A hermit may bury itself or hide for a few days while molting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117720052010,"sku":"CRABxElecBlue","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/electric-blue-hermit-crab.webp?v=1789153122"},{"product_id":"electric-flame-scallop","title":"Electric Flame Scallop","description":"\u003ch3 data-start=\"186\" data-end=\"235\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"190\" data-end=\"235\"\u003eElectric Flame Scallop (\u003cem data-start=\"216\" data-end=\"232\"\u003eCtenoides ales\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"237\" data-end=\"685\"\u003eThe Electric Flame Scallop (\u003cem data-start=\"265\" data-end=\"281\"\u003eCtenoides ales\u003c\/em\u003e) is one of the most captivating filter feeders found in saltwater aquariums. Famous for its bright red mantle and the mesmerizing, lightning-like flashes along its edge, this scallop adds movement and energy to shaded areas of your reef. Its bioluminescent display isn’t produced by true light—rather, it’s the result of light reflecting off specialized tissues that create a natural strobe-like effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"687\" data-end=\"717\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"691\" data-end=\"717\"\u003eBehavior and Placement\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"718\" data-end=\"1106\"\u003eElectric Flame Scallops prefer to tuck themselves into shaded caves or rock crevices where they can attach using fine byssal threads. They may reposition over time to find ideal water flow and feeding conditions. Their pulsing light display is often seen when they are comfortable and well-fed, making them an exciting addition for aquarists who appreciate rare and dynamic invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1108\" data-end=\"1123\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1112\" data-end=\"1123\"\u003eFeeding\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1124\" data-end=\"1495\"\u003eUnlike photosynthetic corals, \u003cem data-start=\"1154\" data-end=\"1170\"\u003eCtenoides ales\u003c\/em\u003e relies entirely on filter feeding. They thrive when provided with a steady diet of live phytoplankton, marine snow, and other micron-sized foods suspended in the water column. Consistent feeding is essential for their long-term health and coloration—systems dosed with phytoplankton regularly tend to yield the best success.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1497\" data-end=\"1522\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1501\" data-end=\"1522\"\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"1523\" data-end=\"1789\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"1523\" data-end=\"1560\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1525\" data-end=\"1560\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1525\" data-end=\"1547\"\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 20 gallons\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"1561\" data-end=\"1632\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1563\" data-end=\"1632\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1563\" data-end=\"1576\"\u003eLighting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low to moderate, avoid direct high-intensity lighting\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"1633\" data-end=\"1704\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1635\" data-end=\"1704\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1635\" data-end=\"1650\"\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate to strong to keep fine particles suspended\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"1705\" data-end=\"1789\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1707\" data-end=\"1789\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1707\" data-end=\"1730\"\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fully reef-safe; best suited for peaceful reef aquariums\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-start=\"1791\" data-end=\"1814\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1795\" data-end=\"1814\"\u003eQuick Care Tips\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"1815\" data-end=\"2082\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"1815\" data-end=\"1884\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1817\" data-end=\"1884\"\u003ePlace the scallop in a shaded crevice with steady water movement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"1885\" data-end=\"1940\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1887\" data-end=\"1940\"\u003eMaintain stable parameters and low nutrient levels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"1941\" data-end=\"2005\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1943\" data-end=\"2005\"\u003eFeed multiple times weekly with phytoplankton or microfoods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-start=\"2006\" data-end=\"2082\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2008\" data-end=\"2082\"\u003eAvoid handling or exposing to air for extended periods during placement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117720477994,"sku":"SCALLOPxElec","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-electric-flame-scallop-1235155730.png?v=1777851039"},{"product_id":"feather-duster","title":"Feather Duster","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eFeather Dusters, as they are commonly known in the hobby, are an extremely common species of marine tube worm that occur in marine environments worldwide. These animals are highly unique and are among the most popular filter feeders in the hobby. Living in a tube which they secrete themselves, feather dusters, while not capable of sight, are highly aware of their surroundings  Unlike some other filter feeders (clams, sponges, etc.) that force water through the body to filter out food, Feather Dusters hunt for food by sprawling out their feeding tentacles and simply using their high surface area to comb through the surrounding water as it flows by, capturing small particles of food and planktonic organisms as they do. These animals do best in an established aquarium with an abundance of copepods, amphipods and other microfauna. Additionally, feather dusters do best when regularly fed a diet of broadcasted planktonic foods, such as phytoplankton, R.O.E. and copepods. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e***Some larger predatory fishes, such as wrasses and butterflyfish, may harass or consume the external appendages of feathers dusters.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 20 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Filter Feeder\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e Crown up to about 4 inches across\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eSabellastarte spectabilis\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWorm, Not Coral\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFeather dusters are sometimes mistaken for corals, but they are segmented marine worms. The feathery crown is made of feeding tentacles called radioles, while the worm’s body stays protected inside a flexible, parchment-like tube. This soft tube is what separates the Feather Duster from the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/coco-worm-feather-duster\"\u003eCoco Worm\u003c\/a\u003e, which builds a hard, calcified tube.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePlacement and Tank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWedge the base of the tube into a rock crevice or bury it a short way into the sand so it stands upright. Choose a spot with moderate, indirect flow that brings food past the crown without constantly folding it over.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn established aquarium with a healthy population of copepods and other microfauna gives this saltwater feather duster the best chance to thrive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSupplement natural plankton with phytoplankton, rotifers, copepods, oyster eggs, or other fine reef foods two to three times per week. Briefly reduce flow and release the food upstream so it drifts through the crown.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFeather dusters are completely peaceful. They coexist well with corals, clams, shrimp, and peaceful fish. Avoid butterflyfish, large wrasses, some dwarf angelfish, and arrow crabs, which may nip or eat the crown.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Feather Duster is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e and makes a graceful addition to mixed reef tanks. It does not sting or compete with corals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eStable salinity and good water quality are important. Sudden changes are the most common cause of crown loss. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCrown loss is not always fatal:\u003c\/strong\u003e A stressed worm may drop its crown. If the tube is left in place and water quality is good, a new crown often regrows over several weeks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNever pull the worm from its tube:\u003c\/strong\u003e Handle the tube only, never the crown or the worm inside.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRetracting is normal:\u003c\/strong\u003e The crown snaps back into the tube when startled and reappears once the worm feels safe.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeed fine foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e Regular planktonic feedings help it stay healthy in clean aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117720707370,"sku":"DUSTERxFeather","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-feather-duster-1231241730.png?v=1775417229"},{"product_id":"flame-scallop","title":"Flame Scallop","description":"\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eFlame Scallops are unique bivalves that can add a wonderful burst of color and texture to a reef aquarium! Similar to many commonly kept Tridacnid clams, Flame Scallops are well-known for their vibrant, red, feathery mantle. Although mainly sessile, Flame Scallops are still fully capable of movement through the use of their shell and siphon to rapidly force water out of the body and propel them. Flame Scallops, like many other bivalves, settle into a location in the home aquarium by forming small white strands known as byssal threads to attach to the rockwork or other aquarium surfaces. Similar to many other commonly kept filter feeders such as clams and feather dusters, Flame Scallops will thrive best in a mature reef with an abundance of microfauna in the water column, as well as supplemental feedings of phyto and zooplankton (e.g. Tetraselmis, Tisochrysis, and Rhodomonas).\u003c\/span\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Flame Scallop (Lima scabra) – Flashing Filter Feeder\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nThe flame scallop (Lima scabra) is a stunning filter-feeding invertebrate known for its bright red mantle, elongated tentacles, and unique ability to produce bioluminescent-like flashes. These scallops do not rely on light for survival but instead filter-feed on planktonic organisms suspended in the water column.\n\nAlthough visually striking, flame scallops are challenging to keep and require frequent, targeted feedings of planktonic foods to survive in home aquariums.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nCare Level: Difficult – Requires frequent feedings of planktonic food\nMinimum Tank Size: 30+ gallons\nAquarium Setup: Prefers shaded rock crevices or overhangs\nFlame scallops are non-photosynthetic and thrive in low-light areas with moderate water flow, where they can anchor themselves using byssal threads.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nFlame scallops are obligate filter feeders that rely on a constant supply of microscopic food in the water column.\n\nDiet: Filter feeder – Requires phytoplankton, zooplankton, and suspended organics\nRecommended Foods:\nLive and cultured phytoplankton\nZooplankton and marine snow\nLiquid coral foods and fine particulate feeds\nDue to their high feeding demands, flame scallops are not ideal for new tanks or systems with low planktonic density. Automated dosing or frequent manual feedings are required for long-term success.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nLifespan: 1-3 years (in optimal conditions)\nGrowth Rate: Moderate – Can grow up to 3-4 inches\nFlame scallops do not reproduce in captivity and often have reduced lifespans due to inadequate feeding in home aquariums.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nTemperament: Peaceful – Does not interact with or harm tankmates\nReef Safe? Yes – Does not harm corals, fish, or invertebrates\nFlame scallops are compatible with most peaceful reef inhabitants, including:\n\nClownfish\nGobies\nBlennies\nShrimp and other filter feeders\nAvoid housing them with aggressive or nipping species, such as:\n\nLarge angelfish\nTriggers and puffers\nWrasses that may pick at invertebrates\nDue to their sensitive nature, they should be kept in stable, mature reef tanks with good filtration.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nDifficult to Feed: Requires frequent feedings of planktonic food to survive.\nMay Relocate Frequently: Will move to shaded or hidden areas if stressed.\nShort Lifespan in Captivity: Often does not thrive long-term without expert care.\nFor best results, maintain a nutrient-rich water column and stable conditions while ensuring regular, targeted feeding.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nTemperature: 74-78°F\ndKH (Alkalinity): 8-12\npH: 8.1-8.4\nSpecific Gravity: 1.024-1.026\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117721919786,"sku":"SCALLOPxFlame","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-flame-scallop-1235155728.png?v=1777851013"},{"product_id":"gold-coral-banded-shrimp","title":"Gold Coral Banded Shrimp","description":"\u003cp data-topshelf-wwc\u003eThe Gold Coral Banded Shrimp (\u003cem\u003eStenopus\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is a gold-banded boxer shrimp from the Indo-Pacific, with behavior very similar to the standard \u003ca href=\"\/products\/coral-banded-shrimp\"\u003eCoral Banded Shrimp\u003c\/a\u003e. It is reef safe, territorial and moderate to care for. See the \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/saltwater-invertebrates\/gold-coral-banded-shrimp\"\u003eGold Coral Banded Shrimp care guide\u003c\/a\u003e for tank setup, diet and compatibility.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eCoral Banded Shrimp, also known as boxer shrimp, are one of the mostly commonly kept shrimp in the reefkeeping hobby. These shrimp, identified by the bright white and red bands on their bodies and large pincer claws, look considerably different from most other reef shrimp. As their appearance suggests, Coral Banded Shrimp are substantially more aggressive than most other shrimp species, however they only pose a threat to other smaller invertebrates who intrude on their territory. These shrimp are nocturnal and prefer an aquarium with plenty of caves and ledges to hide in. During the molting process, these shrimp can occasionally hide for one to two days as their new shell hardens. These shrimp are very hardy and are suitable for most saltwater aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117722411306,"sku":"SHRIMPxGoldCB","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-gold-coral-banded-shrimp-1146290922.webp?v=1770744599"},{"product_id":"halloween-hermit-crab","title":"Halloween Hermit Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003eHalloween Hermit Crabs are eye-catching additions to saltwater aquarium clean up crews due to their bold orange, red, and white banded legs, active scavenging behavior, and ability to consume leftover foods and nuisance algae. These larger hermit crabs are useful for helping clean rockwork, sand, and hard-to-reach areas where uneaten food and detritus may collect. Their striking coloration makes them much more visually impressive than many smaller cleanup crew hermits, but their larger size also means they should be kept with more caution around loose coral frags, small snails, and unstable rockwork. Halloween Hermit Crabs are generally reef safe, but they are strong, opportunistic animals that should be provided with plenty of food and extra empty shells.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Halloween Hermit Crab (Colorful Scavenger \u0026amp; Larger Cleanup Crew Hermit)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHalloween Hermit Crabs (Ciliopagurus strigatus) are attractive marine hermit crabs known for their bright orange and red banding, active foraging, and useful cleanup behavior. Also called Striped Hermit Crabs or Orange-Legged Hermit Crabs, they spend much of their time crawling across rockwork and substrate in search of algae, detritus, leftover food, and other edible material. Their bold coloration makes them excellent display invertebrates, while their scavenging behavior makes them useful additions to established saltwater aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Hardy when kept in stable, established aquariums\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 30+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires live rock, sand, hiding places, stable parameters, and extra empty shells\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHalloween Hermit Crabs do best in established aquariums with plenty of rockwork, caves, crevices, and open areas to forage. Because they grow larger than many common dwarf hermit crabs, they should be given enough room to move without constantly disturbing corals or aquascaping. A variety of empty shells should always be provided so they can change shells as they grow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHalloween Hermit Crabs are omnivorous scavengers that feed on algae, detritus, leftover foods, and meaty items.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Omnivorous – Eats nuisance algae, detritus, leftover food, dried seaweed, and meaty foods\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eNaturally occurring algae on live rock and aquarium surfaces\u003cbr\u003eGreen hair algae and cyanobacteria\u003cbr\u003eDetritus and leftover fish food\u003cbr\u003eDried seaweed or nori\u003cbr\u003eAlgae wafers\u003cbr\u003eFrozen mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, or finely chopped seafood\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough Halloween Hermit Crabs are useful scavengers, they should not be expected to survive only on waste in very clean aquariums. Supplemental feeding may be needed if natural algae and leftover foods are limited. Keeping them well fed can also help reduce opportunistic behavior toward snails or other small invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 2-4+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate – Can grow up to about 2.5 inches\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHalloween Hermit Crabs can become much larger and stronger than many small cleanup crew hermits. As they grow, they will require larger replacement shells and may become more capable of moving loose frags, plugs, or small pieces of rockwork.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful to Semi-Peaceful – Generally safe, but opportunistic around snails and small invertebrates\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? Yes, with caution – Does not intentionally harm corals, but may climb over or disturb them while foraging\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHalloween Hermit Crabs are generally suitable for reef aquariums, but they should be treated as larger, stronger hermits rather than tiny dwarf cleanup crew animals. They may knock over unsecured coral frags, climb over corals, or investigate snails if they need food or a new shell. Avoid keeping them with predatory fish and invertebrates such as triggers, puffers, hawkfish, large wrasses, large crabs, or other animals that may eat hermit crabs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeeds Extra Shells: Provide several empty shells in different sizes to reduce competition and prevent them from targeting snails for new homes.\u003cbr\u003eCan Disturb Corals \u0026amp; Rockwork: Their larger size and active movement can dislodge loose coral frags, plugs, or unstable decorations.\u003cbr\u003eOpportunistic Feeding: They may investigate weak snails, small invertebrates, or leftover meaty foods if underfed.\u003cbr\u003eMay Outgrow Small Cleanup Crews: They are larger and more disruptive than many dwarf hermit crab species.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like all marine invertebrates, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003cbr\u003eMolting Sensitivity: Sudden changes in salinity, pH, or alkalinity can cause stress during molting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, acclimate them carefully, provide extra empty shells, secure coral frags and rockwork, avoid copper exposure, and keep them well fed in mature aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eHalloween Hermit Crabs are some of the largest of the most commonly kept hermit crab species. These hermit crabs are typically found living within conch shells and are most well-known for their vibrantly striped orange legs. Similar to many other species of hermits kept as clean-up-crew, Halloween Hermits are omnivorous and will consume both a wide variety of nuisance algae as well as any uneaten meaty foods that may settle onto the sandbed or rockwork. Due to their larger size, these hermit crabs may occasionally topple over smaller or unsecured corals, causing irritation to the tissue. Additionally, these crabs may target larger snails for new shells as they grow if not provided with suitable empty shells.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117723853098,"sku":"CRABxHalloween","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-halloween-hermit-crab-1251806518.png?v=1785518738"},{"product_id":"harlequin-serpent-starfish","title":"Harlequin Serpent Starfish","description":"\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eSerpent Starfish, otherwise commonly known as brittle stars, can be a great addition to nearly any home aquarium. Sharing many similarities to regular starfish, these animals are primarily scavengers, feeding on a variety of detritus ranging from particulate material and bacteria to frozen food scraps. Unlike their true starfish cousins, Serpent Starfish use their thin wiry bodies to fit themselves into tight crevices of the rockwork, venturing out only in search of food. Additionally, Serpent Starfish contain all of their organs inside of their central disk and cannot regrow the main body from a fragmented arm. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003e***Serpent Starfish are more fragile than true starfish and are far more prone to detaching their arms when distressed; It is highly recommended to keep handling to a minimum with these starfish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivorous Scavenger\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e Arm span up to about 8 inches\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caribbean and Western Atlantic\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eOphioderma appressum\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Harlequin Serpent Star\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Harlequin Serpent Starfish, also called the harlequin brittle star, is named for the light and dark bands that ring each of its five smooth, flexible arms. Its central disc is usually mottled in brown, gray, or olive, and each individual’s pattern is slightly different.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnlike the larger green brittle star (\u003cem\u003eOphiarachna incrassata\u003c\/em\u003e), which is known to catch small fish, the Harlequin Serpent Star is a scavenger that is peaceful toward fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChoose a mature aquarium with plenty of rockwork and shaded crevices. This starfish hides by day with only an arm or two visible, then moves out across the rock and sand at night. Cover overflow openings and pump intakes, since brittle stars can squeeze into surprisingly small gaps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSerpent stars scavenge detritus and leftover food, but they should also be fed directly. Place small pieces of mysis, chopped seafood, or sinking pellets near an exposed arm two to three times per week, and it will pass the food along its arm to its mouth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Harlequin Serpent Starfish is peaceful with fish, corals, and most invertebrates. Avoid harlequin shrimp, which eat starfish, as well as triggerfish, puffers, and large wrasses that may pick at its arms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis species is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e. It does not eat corals, and its nighttime scavenging helps clean up uneaten food in hard-to-reach places.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eEchinoderms are very sensitive to changes in salinity. Drip acclimate over at least an hour and keep specific gravity steady. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHandle as little as possible:\u003c\/strong\u003e Brittle stars readily drop arms when stressed. Lost arms regrow slowly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimate very slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Rapid salinity changes are the most common cause of losses.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eExpect a night owl:\u003c\/strong\u003e It will hide most of the day, especially at first.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKeep away from harlequin shrimp:\u003c\/strong\u003e They are specialized starfish predators.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117724115242,"sku":"STARxHarlequin","price":69.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-harlequin-serpent-starfish-1146290932.webp?v=1770749544"},{"product_id":"horseshoe-crab","title":"Horseshoe Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003eHorseshoe Crabs are fascinating marine invertebrates known for their prehistoric appearance, sand-sifting behavior, and unique role as living fossils. Despite their name, Horseshoe Crabs are not true crabs. They are ancient arthropods more closely related to spiders and scorpions. In saltwater aquariums, juvenile Horseshoe Crabs may help stir sand beds and scavenge leftover foods, worms, and organic material within the substrate. However, they grow very large, require extensive open sand space, and are not suitable for most home reef aquariums long term. Horseshoe Crabs should only be kept in large, mature systems designed around their adult size, constant movement, and specialized sand-bed behavior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Horseshoe Crab (Prehistoric Sand-Sifter \u0026amp; Specialty Display Invertebrate)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHorseshoe Crabs (Limulus polyphemus) are unique marine arthropods found along Atlantic and Gulf coastal regions, where they inhabit sandy flats, estuaries, tidal zones, and shallow coastal environments. Their rounded armored shell, long tail spine, and constant sand-moving behavior make them one of the most unusual animals available in the aquarium trade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the wild, Horseshoe Crabs spend much of their time moving through sand and shallow substrate in search of worms, small invertebrates, detritus, and organic material. This natural behavior gives important insight into their aquarium care: they need a large open sand bed, mature substrate, and enough room to move freely without becoming trapped under rockwork or damaging tankmates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Moderate to Expert – Hardy in the right system, but requires a very large aquarium and specialized setup\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 180+ gallons for adult size, larger strongly preferred\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires a large open sand bed, mature substrate, secure rockwork, stable parameters, and unobstructed bottom space\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHorseshoe Crabs are not appropriate for small aquariums, nano reefs, or crowded coral displays. While juveniles may appear manageable when small, they can grow very large and require significant floor space as adults. Rockwork should be stable and arranged so the crab cannot become trapped while digging or moving through the sand. Open sandy areas are far more important than tall rock structures.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHorseshoe Crabs are carnivorous scavengers and substrate foragers that feed on worms, small invertebrates, leftover foods, and meaty organic matter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Carnivorous Scavenger – Eats worms, small benthic invertebrates, leftover meaty foods, and organic debris\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eFrozen mysis shrimp\u003cbr\u003eBrine shrimp\u003cbr\u003eFinely chopped seafood\u003cbr\u003ePieces of shrimp, squid, clam, or fish\u003cbr\u003eSinking carnivore pellets\u003cbr\u003eNaturally occurring worms and organic matter within mature sand beds\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough Horseshoe Crabs may find some food while digging through the substrate, they should not be expected to survive only on scavenging. Supplemental feeding with meaty foods is important, especially in cleaner aquariums or systems without a mature, food-rich sand bed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: Can be long-lived in suitable conditions\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate – Juveniles may be sold small, but adults can reach very large sizes\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHorseshoe Crabs are often sold as small juveniles, but they should always be housed with adult size in mind. Their eventual size and constant movement make them poor candidates for most standard reef aquariums. Long-term care requires a large, open system with enough sand-bed surface area to support their behavior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Does not aggressively attack fish or corals\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? No for most reef aquariums – May disturb corals, clams, worms, small invertebrates, and aquascaping as it grows\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHorseshoe Crabs are peaceful in the sense that they are not aggressive predators toward fish, but they are not ideal reef animals. As they grow, they may damage or disturb clams, worms, sand-bed invertebrates, loose corals, and delicate aquascaping while foraging. They are best suited for large sand-flat displays, species-focused systems, or public-aquarium-style setups rather than coral-heavy reef tanks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAvoid housing them with triggers, puffers, large wrasses, large crabs, or other animals that may pick at or injure them. They should also be kept away from aquariums with delicate clam mantles, prized sand-bed fauna, or unstable rock structures.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGrows Very Large: Horseshoe Crabs are often sold small but can reach sizes unsuitable for most home aquariums.\u003cbr\u003eRequires Open Sand Space: They need broad, unobstructed sandy areas to move, dig, and forage.\u003cbr\u003eNot Reef Safe for Most Systems: Their size and digging behavior can disturb corals, clams, worms, and other sand-bed organisms.\u003cbr\u003eCan Become Trapped: Rockwork must be secure and arranged to prevent the crab from getting wedged underneath.\u003cbr\u003eNeeds Supplemental Feeding: Meaty foods should be offered regularly to prevent starvation.\u003cbr\u003eMay Deplete Sand-Bed Fauna: They naturally feed on worms and small invertebrates living in the substrate.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like most marine invertebrates, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003cbr\u003eNot a Standard Cleanup Crew Animal: They should not be purchased simply to stir sand in small or average-sized aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, keep Horseshoe Crabs only in very large mature aquariums with open sand beds, secure aquascaping, protected equipment, peaceful tankmates, and a consistent feeding plan.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.020-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Regular","offer_id":49117724901674,"sku":"CRABxHorseR","price":26.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"XLarge","offer_id":49117724934442,"sku":"CRABxHorseX","price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-horseshoe-crab-1251957236.png?v=1785540158"},{"product_id":"ninja-star-snails","title":"Ninja Star Snails","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eSimilarly to their cousins, Ninja Star Astrea snails will help clean your glass of algae and will also feed on nuisance algae in the aquarium, including cyanobacteria and diatoms. These snails prefer environments with sufficient rock work for maneuvering around the aquarium, and unlike Trochus snails, generally cannot flip themselves over.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117726376234,"sku":"SNAILxNinja","price":6.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-ninja-star-snails-1251214374.png?v=1785180014"},{"product_id":"red-knobby-starfish","title":"Red Knobby Starfish","description":"\u003cp data-start=\"24\" data-end=\"377\"\u003eRed Knobby Starfish (\u003cem data-start=\"45\" data-end=\"66\"\u003eProtoreaster lincki\u003c\/em\u003e) are large ornamental sea stars known for their bright red to orange coloration and distinctive raised black knobs that cover their body and arms. Native to sandy lagoons and shallow reef environments throughout the Indo-Pacific, these starfish slowly roam across the substrate and rockwork searching for food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"379\" data-end=\"548\"\u003eTheir bold appearance makes them popular display animals in larger marine aquariums, though they require stable water conditions and a mature system to thrive long term.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1evwddo\" data-start=\"550\" data-end=\"570\"\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"572\" data-end=\"804\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"572\" data-end=\"587\"\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate to Difficult – Requires stable water quality and regular feeding\u003cbr data-start=\"661\" data-end=\"664\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"664\" data-end=\"686\"\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75+ gallons\u003cbr data-start=\"698\" data-end=\"701\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"701\" data-end=\"720\"\u003eAquarium Setup:\u003c\/strong\u003e Established aquarium with open sandbed areas, mature live rock, and stable salinity\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"806\" data-end=\"996\"\u003eRed Knobby Starfish do best in mature aquariums with plenty of space to move and forage. Stable parameters are extremely important, as sea stars are sensitive to rapid environmental changes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"a0ylww\" data-start=\"998\" data-end=\"1021\"\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1023\" data-end=\"1169\"\u003eRed Knobby Starfish are opportunistic scavengers that consume meaty foods, detritus, and naturally occurring organic material within the aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1171\" data-end=\"1241\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1171\" data-end=\"1180\"\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore\/Scavenger – Feeds on meaty foods and organic matter\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-section-id=\"f6aovs\" data-start=\"1243\" data-end=\"1265\"\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eMysis shrimp\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eChopped shrimp or clam\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSinking carnivore pellets\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eSmall pieces of seafood\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNaturally occurring detritus and biofilm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1405\" data-end=\"1536\"\u003eTarget feeding several times per week is often recommended, especially in cleaner aquariums with limited natural food availability.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"18awqjh\" data-start=\"1538\" data-end=\"1567\"\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1569\" data-end=\"1629\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1569\" data-end=\"1582\"\u003eLifespan:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3–5+ years\u003cbr data-start=\"1593\" data-end=\"1596\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1596\" data-end=\"1612\"\u003eGrowth Rate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Slow to Moderate\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1631\" data-end=\"1759\"\u003eWith stable water quality and consistent feeding, Red Knobby Starfish can maintain healthy tissue and coloration for many years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"t76pnm\" data-start=\"1761\" data-end=\"1795\"\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1797\" data-end=\"1875\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1797\" data-end=\"1813\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful – Slow-moving scavenger\u003cbr data-start=\"1846\" data-end=\"1849\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1849\" data-end=\"1863\"\u003eReef Safe?\u003c\/strong\u003e Use Caution\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1877\" data-end=\"2126\"\u003eRed Knobby Starfish are generally peaceful toward fish but may consume sessile invertebrates, soft corals, sponges, or other slow-moving organisms if underfed. They are often better suited for fish-only systems or carefully monitored reef aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2128\" data-end=\"2250\"\u003eAvoid housing them with triggers, puffers, large wrasses, harlequin shrimp, or other species known to prey on echinoderms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"kdvd6k\" data-start=\"2252\" data-end=\"2293\"\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-section-id=\"1p05d14\" data-start=\"2295\" data-end=\"2330\"\u003eSensitivity to Salinity Changes\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2332\" data-end=\"2441\"\u003eRed Knobby Starfish are highly sensitive to rapid changes in salinity and should always be acclimated slowly.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-section-id=\"1r2ehy2\" data-start=\"2443\" data-end=\"2462\"\u003eStarvation Risk\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2464\" data-end=\"2576\"\u003eIn aquariums without sufficient natural food sources or supplemental feeding, they may slowly decline over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-section-id=\"gzvm9w\" data-start=\"2578\" data-end=\"2602\"\u003eHandling Sensitivity\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2604\" data-end=\"2686\"\u003eExposure to air and rough handling can damage delicate tissue and increase stress.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-section-id=\"1aludhk\" data-start=\"2688\" data-end=\"2718\"\u003eLimited Reef Compatibility\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2720\" data-end=\"2823\"\u003eSome individuals may disturb or consume sessile invertebrates while scavenging throughout the aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"52w0mo\" data-start=\"2825\" data-end=\"2844\"\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2846\" data-end=\"2952\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2846\" data-end=\"2862\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–77°F\u003cbr data-start=\"2870\" data-end=\"2873\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2873\" data-end=\"2894\"\u003edKH (Alkalinity):\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–9\u003cbr data-start=\"2898\" data-end=\"2901\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2901\" data-end=\"2908\"\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.3\u003cbr data-start=\"2916\" data-end=\"2919\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2919\" data-end=\"2940\"\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2954\" data-end=\"3120\" data-is-last-node=\"\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eStable water chemistry, mature biological filtration, and regular feeding are important for maintaining healthy tissue and long-term success with Red Knobby Starfish.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117726834986,"sku":"STARxRedKnob","price":89.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-red-knobby-starfish-1235154565.png?v=1777843541"},{"product_id":"peacock-mantis-shrimp","title":"Peacock Mantis Shrimp","description":"\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThe peacock mantis shrimp is a marine animal that stands out for its vibrant appearance and powerful claws. These creatures can be found in tropical waters and are often admired for their striking colors. With their sturdy claws, they are skilled hunters, able to break through the shells of various prey with ease.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003ePeacock mantis shrimps have a unique visual system that allows them to see an extensive range of colors, far beyond what humans can perceive. This exceptional eyesight is useful for detecting prey and navigating their surroundings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eIn terms of care, maintaining a suitable marine aquarium is essential for keeping peacock mantis shrimps as pets. A well-maintained tank with appropriate water conditions and hiding spots is crucial for their well-being. Additionally, offering them a diet of crustaceans and small fish will help meet their nutritional needs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eWhile they are captivating creatures to observe, it's important to remember that peacock mantis shrimps can be aggressive, and their powerful claws can potentially harm other tank inhabitants. Therefore, careful consideration and planning are necessary if you intend to include them in your marine aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eIn the wild, peacock mantis shrimps play a role in the marine ecosystem by controlling populations of small prey species. Their presence is just one example of the diverse and fascinating marine life that exists beneath the ocean's surface.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117727555882,"sku":"SHRIMPxPeacock","price":169.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-peacock-mantis-shrimp-1146290927.jpg?v=1770744708"},{"product_id":"pencil-urchin","title":"Pencil Urchin","description":"\u003cp\u003ePencil Urchins are unique additions to saltwater aquariums due to their thick, blunt spines, hardy nature, and ability to graze on algae and organic debris. Also known as Slate Pencil Urchins, Eucidaris tribuloides are nocturnal urchins that spend much of the day tucked into rockwork and become more active after the lights go out. They can help consume algae, detritus, and leftover foods, but they are not as reef-safe as some other urchins and should be kept with caution in coral-heavy aquariums. Their strong body and rigid spines can also dislodge loose frags, unsecured rockwork, or lightweight decorations as they move.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Pencil Urchin (Hardy Nocturnal Grazer \u0026amp; Rockwork Scavenger)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePencil Urchins (Eucidaris tribuloides) are hardy marine urchins known for their thick, pencil-like spines and rugged appearance. Unlike more delicate urchins, their blunt spines give them a distinctive armored look while helping them wedge into crevices and move across rockwork. In the aquarium, they are most active at night, grazing across rocks and hard surfaces in search of algae, detritus, and other available foods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy to Moderate – Hardy, but best for stable aquariums with secure rockwork\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 30+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires live rock, caves, crevices, and stable reef parameters\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePencil Urchins do best in mature saltwater aquariums with plenty of rockwork for grazing and shelter. They are strong animals that may push through loose frags or unstable aquascaping, so corals and rock structures should be secured before adding one. Because they are nocturnal, they may remain hidden during the day and become more visible after dark.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePencil Urchins are omnivorous grazers and scavengers that feed on algae, detritus, and meaty organic matter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Omnivorous – Eats algae, detritus, leftover foods, and some meaty items\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eNaturally occurring algae on live rock\u003cbr\u003eDetritus and leftover fish food\u003cbr\u003eDried seaweed\u003cbr\u003eAlgae wafers\u003cbr\u003eSmall meaty foods such as mysis shrimp or finely chopped seafood\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile Pencil Urchins will graze on algae, they should not be treated as a strict herbivore. If the aquarium does not provide enough natural food, supplemental feeding with dried seaweed, sinking foods, or small meaty foods may be needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 3-5+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Slow to Moderate – Can become a substantial rockwork grazer over time\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePencil Urchins are hardy, long-lived invertebrates when kept in stable aquariums. Maintaining proper calcium, alkalinity, and overall water quality is important for supporting spine and test growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful to Semi-Peaceful – Does not actively attack fish, but may disturb corals or small sessile invertebrates while grazing\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? With caution – May graze on coralline algae, sponges, or some coral tissue and can knock over unsecured frags\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePencil Urchins are best suited for fish-only systems, predator-safe invertebrate displays, macroalgae tanks, or reef aquariums where the aquascape is stable and the keeper understands the risk of incidental coral disturbance. They should not be housed with triggers, puffers, large wrasses, large crabs, or other predators that may damage or eat urchins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReef Safe With Caution: Pencil Urchins may graze on coralline algae, sponges, and occasionally coral tissue or small sessile invertebrates.\u003cbr\u003eCan Knock Over Frags: Their strong body and rigid spines can dislodge loose coral plugs, unsecured frags, or unstable rockwork.\u003cbr\u003eNocturnal Behavior: They may hide during the day and become active mostly at night.\u003cbr\u003eNeeds Supplemental Feeding: In cleaner aquariums, offer dried seaweed, algae wafers, or small meaty foods.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like all marine invertebrates, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003cbr\u003eRequires Stable Parameters: Sudden changes in salinity, pH, or alkalinity can stress urchins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, secure corals and rockwork, provide regular supplemental foods when needed, avoid copper exposure, and place them in aquariums where occasional grazing damage is acceptable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117727818026,"sku":"URCHINxPencil","price":26.24,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-pencil-urchin-1248522134.png?v=1783718771"},{"product_id":"pink-tube-anemone","title":"Pink Tube Anemone","description":"\u003cp\u003ePink Tube Anemones are striking ornamental invertebrates known for their vibrant coloration, long flowing tentacles, and unique tube-dwelling behavior. Unlike traditional host anemones, Tube Anemones are cerianthids that live with their body buried in a soft, protective tube within the sand bed. Their bright pink coloration and graceful tentacle extension make them beautiful display animals, especially in lower-light areas of mature saltwater aquariums. While they can be hardy when properly placed and fed, Pink Tube Anemones should be kept with caution around corals and small or slow-moving tankmates due to their strong stinging tentacles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Pink Tube Anemone (Colorful Sand-Dwelling Display Invertebrate \u0026amp; Nocturnal Carnivore)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePink Tube Anemones (Cerianthus sp.) are unique, non-photosynthetic marine invertebrates that create a parchment-like tube in the substrate and extend their tentacles into the water column to capture food. In the wild, tube anemones are often found in sandy or muddy areas near reefs, rubble zones, and other soft-bottom habitats where gentle water movement delivers plankton and organic material. This natural behavior gives important insight into their aquarium care: they require soft substrate, room to expand, and regular feeding rather than strong lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Moderate – Hardy when properly placed, but requires feeding and careful spacing\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires a soft sand bed, open bottom placement, stable parameters, and space away from corals or other sessile invertebrates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePink Tube Anemones should be placed in the sand bed where they can bury their tube and extend their tentacles without touching nearby corals. They do not attach to rock like true sea anemones and should not be forced into crevices or placed on hard surfaces without access to soft substrate. A deeper sand bed or protected sand-filled area is ideal, especially for larger specimens. Low to moderate indirect flow is best, as it helps deliver food without preventing the anemone from opening fully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePink Tube Anemones are carnivorous, non-photosynthetic feeders that rely on regular meaty foods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Carnivorous – Prefers small meaty foods and planktonic foods\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eFrozen mysis shrimp\u003cbr\u003eBrine shrimp\u003cbr\u003eFinely chopped seafood\u003cbr\u003eZooplankton-based foods\u003cbr\u003eSmall pieces of fish or shrimp\u003cbr\u003ePrepared carnivore foods offered in appropriate portions\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePink Tube Anemones should be fed when fully expanded, especially after the lights dim or once the animal is comfortable opening during the day. Because they are not photosynthetic, lighting does not provide nutrition. Regular feeding is important for long-term health, but food pieces should be appropriately sized so they can be captured and consumed easily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 5+ years with proper care, with some tube anemones capable of living much longer in stable systems\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate – Can develop a large tentacle spread over time\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePink Tube Anemones can become long-lived display animals when kept in mature aquariums with stable water quality, suitable substrate, and consistent feeding. Their tentacle crown may expand significantly, so they should be given enough open space from the beginning rather than placed tightly between corals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Semi-Aggressive – Peaceful in movement, but capable of stinging nearby animals\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? With caution – Does not roam like many anemones, but can sting corals, clams, fish, and invertebrates within reach\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePink Tube Anemones are best suited for aquariums where they can be given a dedicated sand-bed area away from corals and delicate tankmates. They do not host clownfish, and clownfish should not be expected to use them safely. Avoid placing them near coral colonies, clam mantles, slow bottom-dwelling fish, small gobies, ornamental shrimp, or other animals that may come into contact with their tentacles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRequires Sand Placement: Pink Tube Anemones need soft substrate where they can bury and maintain their protective tube.\u003cbr\u003eNot a Clownfish Host: They are not true hosting anemones and should not be purchased for clownfish pairing.\u003cbr\u003eStrong Stinging Tentacles: Their tentacles can damage corals, clams, small fish, or invertebrates that touch them.\u003cbr\u003eNeeds Regular Feeding: They are non-photosynthetic and must receive meaty foods or planktonic foods.\u003cbr\u003eMay Retract When Stressed: Sudden movement, poor placement, or aggressive tankmates may cause them to stay closed.\u003cbr\u003eRequires Space: Their tentacle spread can be much larger than expected, especially after dark.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like most marine invertebrates, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, place them in a mature aquarium with a soft sand bed, feed consistently, provide open space around the tentacle crown, and keep them away from corals or tankmates that may be stung.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117728342314,"sku":"NEMxPinkTube","price":119.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-pink-tube-anemone-1251230562.png?v=1785187211"},{"product_id":"pom-pom-crab","title":"Pom Pom Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003ePom Pom Crabs are one of the most unique and entertaining ornamental crabs available for saltwater aquariums due to their small size, peaceful nature, and unusual habit of carrying tiny anemones in their claws. Also known as Boxer Crabs, Lybia tessellata use these anemones for defense and food capture, holding them like miniature pom poms as they move through the aquarium. Their fascinating behavior, reef safe nature, and compact size make them excellent additions to nano reefs, peaceful community aquariums, and mature reef systems with plenty of live rock and hiding places.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Pom Pom Crab (Anemone-Carrying Boxer Crab \u0026amp; Nano Reef Favorite)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePom Pom Crabs (Lybia tessellata) are small ornamental crabs known for their distinctive partnership with tiny anemones, which they hold in their claws and wave defensively when threatened. In the wild, they are often found in reef rubble, sandy areas, coral zones, and rocky crevices where their small size and patterned body help them stay hidden from predators. In the aquarium, they may be shy at first, spending much of their time under ledges, inside rockwork, or in shaded areas, but patient hobbyists are rewarded with one of the most interesting behaviors found in reef-safe crabs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Hardy when kept in stable, established aquariums\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires live rock, caves, crevices, rubble zones, and peaceful tankmates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePom Pom Crabs do best in mature saltwater aquariums with stable water quality and plenty of hiding places. They are small and can be secretive, so nano aquariums or peaceful reef tanks often make it easier to observe their behavior. They should be acclimated carefully, as sudden changes in salinity, pH, or temperature can stress marine crustaceans.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePom Pom Crabs are omnivorous scavengers that feed on leftover foods, detritus, small meaty foods, and suspended particles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Omnivorous – Eats meaty foods, detritus, leftover food, and small organic particles\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eFrozen mysis shrimp\u003cbr\u003eBrine shrimp\u003cbr\u003eFinely chopped seafood\u003cbr\u003eSmall sinking pellets\u003cbr\u003ePlankton-based foods\u003cbr\u003eLeftover foods from regular fish feedings\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough Pom Pom Crabs may use their anemones to help collect food, they should still be fed regularly in the aquarium. Target feeding small portions near their hiding area can help ensure they receive enough food, especially in tanks with fast-feeding fish or other scavengers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 2-3+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Slow to Moderate – Usually remains small and suitable for nano aquariums\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePom Pom Crabs stay much smaller than many other marine crabs, making them well suited for reef tanks where a less disruptive crab is preferred. Like other crustaceans, they grow by molting and require stable water parameters to molt successfully.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Generally safe with peaceful fish, corals, and most reef invertebrates\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? Yes – Does not harm corals, though it may hide among rockwork or occasionally climb on coral structures\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePom Pom Crabs are excellent choices for peaceful reef aquariums and nano tanks. They should not be housed with aggressive crab predators such as triggers, puffers, hawkfish, large wrasses, lionfish, large crabs, or other animals that may eat small ornamental crustaceans. Because of their small size, they are best kept with calm tankmates that will not outcompete or harass them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSmall \u0026amp; Secretive: Pom Pom Crabs may hide frequently, especially in larger aquariums or tanks with active fish.\u003cbr\u003eMay Lose Anemones: Some individuals may lose one or both anemones over time, though they can still survive without them.\u003cbr\u003eNeeds Regular Feeding: They should not be expected to survive only on scraps or detritus in very clean systems.\u003cbr\u003eMolting Sensitivity: Sudden changes in salinity, pH, or alkalinity can cause stress during molting.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like all marine crabs, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003cbr\u003eBest With Peaceful Tankmates: Larger predatory fish or crabs may injure or eat them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, acclimate them carefully, provide plenty of rockwork and hiding areas, feed small meaty foods regularly, avoid copper exposure, and keep them with peaceful reef-safe tankmates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117728932138,"sku":"CRABxPomPom","price":31.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-pom-pom-crab-1251855117.png?v=1785525581"},{"product_id":"porcelain-anemone-crab","title":"Porcelain Anemone Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003e*Anemone not included.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003ePorcelain Anemone Crabs are very unique crustaceans that can make an interesting addition to reef aquariums housing a wide range of anemone species. These crabs have a commensal relationship with their anemone hosts, similarly to clownfish. In exchange for the anemone’s protection, the crabs offer the anemone cleaning and another source of food through their messy consumption of prey. Unlike many other commonly kept crabs, Porcelain Anemone Crabs are primarily filter feeders and can often be seen waving their large, feathery setae around to capture particulate food out of the water column, making up the majority of their diet. These crabs will also scavenge for any pieces of meaty foods when given the opportunity. Porcelain Anemone Crabs are reef safe and pose no danger to corals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10 gallons (larger if keeping a host anemone)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Filter Feeder\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e About 1 inch across the body\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eNeopetrolisthes maculatus\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eHost Anemones\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the wild, the Porcelain Anemone Crab lives among the tentacles of large host anemones, most often carpet anemones (\u003cem\u003eStichodactyla\u003c\/em\u003e), along with \u003cem\u003eHeteractis\u003c\/em\u003e species and sometimes bubble tip anemones. In the aquarium, a healthy host anemone is strongly recommended for long-term success. Some crabs will settle into rockwork crevices without one, but they are less secure and more exposed to predators.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIf a clownfish already occupies the anemone, the fish may chase the crab out of it. Most crabs simply relocate to the anemone’s base or nearby rock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAn established reef aquarium with moderate, consistent water movement suits this porcelain crab best. Flow should carry suspended food past it without constantly knocking it off its perch. Rockwork with small holes and ledges gives it secure places to retreat during molts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePorcelain crabs catch food with fan-shaped mouthparts that sweep the water column. In a very clean aquarium, they can slowly starve without deliberate feeding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOffer fine foods such as live or frozen phytoplankton, rotifers, copepods, oyster eggs, and powdered reef foods several times per week. Turning off return pumps and skimmers for a few minutes during feeding, and gently releasing food upstream of the crab with a baster, helps ensure it eats.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePorcelain Anemone Crabs are peaceful toward fish, corals, and other invertebrates. They may squabble with another porcelain crab that crowds their spot, so keep one per anemone unless you have a pair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAvoid hawkfish, triggerfish, puffers, and large wrasses, all of which may eat small crabs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis crab is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e. It does not pick at corals or clams, and its filter feeding helps remove fine particles from the water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAcclimate gradually and keep salinity and temperature stable, as sudden swings can trigger failed molts. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAnemone not included:\u003c\/strong\u003e The crab is sold on its own. Have an established host anemone in place for the best results.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeed fine foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e Filter feeders need regular small-particle feedings, not just leftovers.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eClaws can drop:\u003c\/strong\u003e Stressed crabs sometimes release a claw. It regrows over successive molts.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolts look like a dead crab:\u003c\/strong\u003e Check for a hollow shell before assuming the crab has died.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117729390890,"sku":"CRABxPorcelainNem","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-porcelain-anemone-crab-1227264362.png?v=1773772888"},{"product_id":"red-yellow-feather-duster","title":"Red-Yellow Feather Duster","description":"\u003cp data-start=\"610\" data-end=\"892\"\u003eRed and Yellow Feather Dusters (\u003cem data-start=\"642\" data-end=\"657\"\u003eSabellastarte\u003c\/em\u003e species) are tube worms commonly found in reef environments where moderate flow delivers a steady supply of plankton. They build soft tubes from sand and debris and remain anchored in place, extending their feather-like crown to feed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"894\" data-end=\"1065\"\u003eWhen startled, they will quickly retract into their tube for protection. Given stable conditions and adequate feeding, they can remain extended throughout most of the day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1evwddo\" data-start=\"1067\" data-end=\"1087\"\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1089\" data-end=\"1294\"\u003eCare Level: Easy to Moderate – Requires consistent feeding in lower-nutrient systems\u003cbr data-start=\"1173\" data-end=\"1176\"\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons\u003cbr data-start=\"1206\" data-end=\"1209\"\u003eAquarium Setup: Established tank with stable parameters and moderate, indirect flow\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1296\" data-end=\"1480\"\u003eFeather dusters do best in systems where there is enough suspended food in the water column. Placement should allow gentle flow to pass over the crown without folding or collapsing it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"e57uqf\" data-start=\"1482\" data-end=\"1501\"\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1503\" data-end=\"1589\"\u003eRed and Yellow Feather Dusters are filter feeders that rely on fine particulate foods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1591\" data-end=\"1670\"\u003eDiet: Filter Feeder – Consumes suspended micro-particles\u003cbr data-start=\"1647\" data-end=\"1650\"\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cul data-start=\"1671\" data-end=\"1785\"\u003e\n\u003cli data-section-id=\"11bj56p\" data-start=\"1671\" data-end=\"1708\"\u003ePhytoplankton (live or preserved)\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-section-id=\"fu2b1z\" data-start=\"1709\" data-end=\"1744\"\u003eFine zooplankton and microfauna\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli data-section-id=\"a046zh\" data-start=\"1745\" data-end=\"1785\"\u003ePowdered coral foods and reef blends\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1787\" data-end=\"1915\"\u003eIn nutrient-poor systems, supplemental feeding 2–3 times per week is recommended to maintain health and prevent slow starvation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1bvigoq\" data-start=\"1917\" data-end=\"1942\"\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1944\" data-end=\"1990\"\u003eLifespan: 1–3+ years\u003cbr data-start=\"1964\" data-end=\"1967\"\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1992\" data-end=\"2118\"\u003eWith regular feeding and stable water conditions, feather dusters can maintain their crown and occasionally regrow it if lost.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1mnxhmt\" data-start=\"2120\" data-end=\"2150\"\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2152\" data-end=\"2220\"\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Completely non-aggressive\u003cbr data-start=\"2201\" data-end=\"2204\"\u003eReef Safe? Yes\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2222\" data-end=\"2399\"\u003eThey are safe with corals and fish but may be targeted by certain species such as wrasses, butterflyfish, or other invertebrate pickers. Avoid housing them with known predators.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1o7oc57\" data-start=\"2401\" data-end=\"2438\"\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2440\" data-end=\"2626\"\u003eCrown Shedding:\u003cbr data-start=\"2455\" data-end=\"2458\"\u003eFeather dusters may drop their crown due to stress, shipping, or poor water quality. This is not always fatal, and they can regrow it over time if conditions improve.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2628\" data-end=\"2721\"\u003eStarvation Risk:\u003cbr data-start=\"2644\" data-end=\"2647\"\u003eIn ultra-clean systems, they may slowly decline without regular feeding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2723\" data-end=\"2828\"\u003eSensitivity to Flow:\u003cbr data-start=\"2743\" data-end=\"2746\"\u003eExcessive direct flow can cause them to remain closed or detach from their tube.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2830\" data-end=\"2932\"\u003eHandling Stress:\u003cbr data-start=\"2846\" data-end=\"2849\"\u003eRough handling or sudden parameter swings can cause retraction or long-term stress.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"52w0mo\" data-start=\"2934\" data-end=\"2953\"\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2955\" data-end=\"3047\"\u003eTemperature: 75–77°F\u003cbr data-start=\"2975\" data-end=\"2978\"\u003edKH (Alkalinity): 8–9\u003cbr data-start=\"2999\" data-end=\"3002\"\u003epH: 8.1–8.3\u003cbr data-start=\"3013\" data-end=\"3016\"\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.024–1.026\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3049\" data-end=\"3181\" data-is-last-node=\"\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eStable water conditions and consistent access to suspended nutrients will help maintain a full, extended crown and long-term health.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117731815722,"sku":"DUSTERxRedYellow","price":52.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-red-yellow-feather-duster-1251230563.png?v=1785187150"},{"product_id":"sally-lightfoot-crab","title":"Sally Lightfoot Crab","description":"\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eThe Sally Lightfoot Crab (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003ci data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003ePercnon gibbesi\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003e), is a sleek, fast, and relatively common crab species, found on both sides of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Similar to some shore crab species, the Sally Lightfoot Crab has a very compressed body shape, allowing them to squeeze into tight nooks and crannies in the rockwork, allowing them to be highly effective at avoiding predators. Although Sally Lightfoot crabs will primarily graze on a number of green and brown algaes, including nuisance macroalgaes like Caulerpa and Padina, these crabs are opportunistic predators and will consume any meaty foods available to them.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore (primarily algae)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e With caution\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e Leg span up to about 3 inches\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Atlantic and Eastern Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003ePercnon gibbesi\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWhich Sally Lightfoot Crab Is This?\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe name Sally Lightfoot is shared by two different crabs. This is \u003cem\u003ePercnon gibbesi\u003c\/em\u003e, a flat, fully aquatic reef crab also called the Nimble Spray Crab. It is not the large, red shoreline crab (\u003cem\u003eGrapsus grapsus\u003c\/em\u003e) seen on the rocks of the Galápagos, which is not suited to reef aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProvide plenty of live rock with narrow crevices, since this crab relies on tight hiding places for security. It is quick and agile, so overflow boxes and open plumbing should be covered to keep it from wandering where it does not belong.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSally Lightfoot Crabs graze hair algae, film algae, and macroalgae, and they will also take leftover meaty foods. When algae runs low, supplement with dried seaweed, algae wafers, or sinking pellets two to three times per week.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA well-fed crab is far less likely to go looking for other food sources in the aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis crab usually ignores larger fish, but as an opportunistic feeder it may catch small shrimp, snails, or very small or sleeping fish. It is best kept with medium-sized, active fish rather than tiny gobies or ornamental shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAvoid triggerfish, puffers, hawkfish, and large wrasses, which may prey on crabs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Sally Lightfoot Crab is considered \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe with caution\u003c\/strong\u003e. Most individuals leave corals alone, but some pick at zoanthids, soft corals, or other polyps, especially when underfed. Keep an eye on its behavior once it settles in.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAcclimate slowly and maintain stable parameters to support healthy molting. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeed it when algae runs out:\u003c\/strong\u003e Offer seaweed or pellets so it stays focused on grazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWatch small tankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Small shrimp, snails, and tiny fish may be at risk from a hungry crab.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCover overflows:\u003c\/strong\u003e This fast crab can slip into overflow boxes and sumps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMonitor coral behavior:\u003c\/strong\u003e Remove the crab if it begins picking at polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117732143402,"sku":"CRABxSally","price":15.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-sally-lightfoot-crab-1146290908.webp?v=1770225493"},{"product_id":"dolabella-sea-hare","title":"Dolabella Sea Hare","description":"\u003cp\u003eDolabella Sea Hares are highly effective algae grazers valued in the saltwater aquarium hobby for their ability to consume large amounts of nuisance algae. Also known as the Wedge Sea Hare or Blunt-End Sea Hare, Dolabella auricularia is a large herbivorous marine gastropod with a mottled brown, tan, green, or algae-like appearance that helps it blend into rockwork and algae-covered surfaces. These sea hares can be extremely useful in mature aquariums experiencing heavy algae growth, but they should only be added to systems that can provide a consistent food source and stable water quality. Once available algae is depleted, supplemental feeding or rehoming may be necessary to prevent starvation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Dolabella Sea Hare (Powerful Algae Grazer \u0026amp; Nuisance Algae Specialist)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDolabella Sea Hares (Dolabella auricularia) are large, peaceful herbivores known for their unusual body shape, soft texture, and strong appetite for algae. In the wild, they are found in shallow Indo-Pacific habitats such as intertidal zones, seagrass beds, seaweed areas, and algae-rich coastal environments. This natural behavior gives important insight into their care: they are constant grazers that require abundant algae or supplemental vegetable-based foods to thrive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUnlike snails or hermit crabs, Dolabella Sea Hares are soft-bodied and more vulnerable to injury. They move slowly across rockwork, glass, and substrate while grazing, making them excellent algae-control animals in the right aquarium. However, they are not ideal for small, new, or overly clean systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Moderate to Expert – Best for mature, algae-rich aquariums\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 100+ gallons for long-term adult care\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires established rockwork, abundant algae growth, hiding areas, stable parameters, and protected pump intakes\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDolabella Sea Hares should be placed in mature saltwater aquariums with significant natural algae growth. They are best used in systems with persistent nuisance algae problems rather than clean, low-nutrient aquariums. Because they can grow very large and consume algae quickly, smaller systems may not provide enough food for long-term success.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePowerheads, overflows, and pump intakes should be covered or guarded to prevent injury. Sea Hares are soft-bodied and can be seriously harmed if pulled into equipment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDolabella Sea Hares are herbivorous grazers that feed primarily on algae.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Herbivorous – Prefers nuisance algae, filamentous algae, macroalgae, and vegetable-based foods\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eNaturally occurring nuisance algae\u003cbr\u003eHair algae and filamentous algae\u003cbr\u003eMacroalgae such as chaeto or other safe marine algae\u003cbr\u003eDried seaweed or nori\u003cbr\u003eVegetable-based pellets or algae wafers if accepted\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDolabella Sea Hares require a constant food source. They are excellent for reducing algae outbreaks, but once the algae is gone, they may starve quickly without supplemental feeding. If the aquarium becomes too clean, offer dried seaweed, macroalgae, or algae-based foods, or consider relocating the sea hare to another suitable algae-rich system.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: Often short-lived compared to many reef invertebrates, with lifespan varying by age, condition, and food availability\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate to Fast when well fed – Can grow very large, with some references listing adult sizes near 12 inches or more\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDolabella Sea Hares are often sold as smaller specimens, but they should be housed with adult size and food demand in mind. Their large size makes them very effective algae consumers, but it also means they require far more available food than standard cleanup crew snails.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Does not bother fish, corals, or most peaceful invertebrates\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? Yes, with caution – Does not eat corals, but may release ink if severely stressed or injured\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDolabella Sea Hares are peaceful algae grazers and generally safe with corals and reef fish. However, they should not be kept with aggressive or predatory tankmates that may bite, pick at, or injure them. Avoid triggers, puffers, large wrasses, large crabs, aggressive shrimp, and other animals that may harass soft-bodied invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRequires Constant Algae: Dolabella Sea Hares need abundant algae or supplemental feeding to avoid starvation.\u003cbr\u003eNot for Clean Tanks: They are best used in mature aquariums with active algae growth, not new or sterile systems.\u003cbr\u003eCan Release Ink: If startled, injured, or severely stressed, they may release a purple dye into the water. Running carbon and performing a water change can help remove it.\u003cbr\u003eProtect Pump Intakes: Their soft body can be damaged by powerheads, overflows, or uncovered intakes.\u003cbr\u003eLarge Adult Size: They can become much larger than many customers expect and require enough space to graze.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like most marine invertebrates, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Poor Water Quality: Sudden changes in salinity, temperature, pH, or alkalinity can cause stress.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, only add a Dolabella Sea Hare to a mature aquarium with abundant algae, acclimate carefully, cover pump intakes, avoid aggressive tankmates, and have a feeding or rehoming plan once algae levels decline.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eSea Hares are a popular choice among reef-aquarists for eliminating a wide variety of algae species from the home aquarium. These delicate animals are closely related to nudibranchs and share many of the same features, including a large muscular foot for locomotion, small rasping teeth for scraping algae, and the lack of an external shell. Sea hares can be quite voracious, removing large swaths of nuisance algae from rock and glasswork in a matter of days, depending on tank size. Unfortunately, sea hares can sometimes be TOO efficient at clearing the algae out of an aquarium and starve themselves unless supplemented with offerings of various dried seaweed species anchored to a surface for easy access. In extremely rare instances of stress, sea hares can produce an ink-like substance as a defense mechanism; This ink is toxic to many other reef inhabitants and if observed, should be removed immediately via a large water change.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117732765994,"sku":"SLUGxSeaHare","price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-dolabella-sea-hare-1251624973.png?v=1785446679"},{"product_id":"sexy-anemone-shrimp","title":"Sexy Anemone Shrimp","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e*Anemone not included.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eSexy Shrimp (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003ci data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003eThor amboinensis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e) offer a unique look at the symbiotic relationship that different species of shrimps can form with a variety of other organisms. In the case of the sexy shrimp, they are most well-known for their relationship with sea anemones. Often forming small assemblages within a singular anemone, sexy shrimp will spend most of their time scavenging for food on their anemone hosts tentacles, as well as feeding on the mucous produced by the anemone; In exchange for the safety and security offered by the anemone, sexy shrimp help to keep their host healthy by cleaning it of any detritus that may settle onto the body or get caught in the tentacles. Additionally, sexy shrimp are known for their displaying behaviors, in which the shrimp raises its tail-end above its head, waving it back and forth in a gentle motion. This characteristic behavior is one of the biggest appeals of these shrimp, especially in nano-reefs, making them a wonderful choice for a centerpiece. Unfortunately, sexy shrimp may not fare as well in larger systems, as their small size can leave them open to being preyed upon by many commonly kept small damsels, wrasses, and tangs.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117733257514,"sku":"SHRIMPxSexy","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-sexy-anemone-shrimp-1227271525.png?v=1773839705"},{"product_id":"tiger-pistol-shrimp","title":"Tiger Pistol Shrimp","description":"\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003ePistol shrimps offer a look into the symbiotic relationship that exists between reef inhabitants in the wild. The tiger pistol shrimp (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003ci data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eAlpheus bellulus) \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eis one of the most common pistol species in the hobby, and also one of the largest. These beautiful white pistol shrimp can be identified by the orange-brown stripes running down the entirety of their otherwise white carapace and claws. Pistol shrimps are most well-known for their asymmetric claws, with the larger claw being capable of releasing high speed air bubbles, creating a close-ranged shockwave used to stun and kill prey as well as warn would-be predators and intruders; The shockwave created by these air bubbles is so loud it can and will likely be heard outside of the tank! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cbr data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\n\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eDespite their seemingly dangerous demeanor, Tiger pistol shrimp are capable of forming symbiotic relationships with a variety of commonly kept goby species, including Randall’s gobies, Yellow Watchman gobies, Yasha Hase gobies, and Spotted Prawn gobies to name a few. In this relationship, the shrimp (being blind) tends to the burrow while the goby acts as a lookout and brings food back to the den to share with its companion. When a pair is formed, the goby and pistol shrimp may scout out a variety of locations before building a new burrow. It is not uncommon to see your pistol shrimp or goby removing sand from their burrow as they expand their home, and caution should be taken to remove any corals that may be near the burrow to prevent them from becoming buried. Other than this, pistol shrimps are generally reef safe, but may become aggressive towards fishes that invade their territory.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 20 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful toward most fish; territorial around its burrow\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivorous Scavenger\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e Up to about 2 inches\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eAlpheus bellulus\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProvide a mature marine aquarium with a sand bed at least 2–3 inches deep. A mix of fine sand and small rubble gives the shrimp the material it needs to shore up tunnel walls, and flat pieces of rock placed on the sand make ideal burrow roofs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBecause Tiger Pistol Shrimp excavate beneath rockwork, the main rock structure should sit directly on the bottom glass or on stable supports before sand is added. Rock resting only on top of the sand can shift or collapse once tunneling begins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003ePairing with a Goby\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA pairing is never guaranteed, but it is most likely when the shrimp and a compatible goby are introduced around the same time, or when the goby is added after the shrimp has established a burrow. Watchman gobies (\u003cem\u003eCryptocentrus\u003c\/em\u003e), Yasha gobies, Randall’s gobies, and other shrimp gobies such as \u003cem\u003eAmblyeleotris\u003c\/em\u003e and \u003cem\u003eStonogobiops\u003c\/em\u003e species are the most common partners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOnce paired, the shrimp keeps a feeler on the goby while it works, and the goby signals danger with a flick of its tail. A single pair per burrow is the norm; in larger aquariums, several pairs can coexist if each has its own territory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Tiger Pistol Shrimp is an opportunistic carnivore. It accepts thawed mysis, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped shrimp or clam, frozen carnivore blends, and sinking marine pellets. Leftovers that drift near the burrow are quickly pulled inside.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTarget-feed small portions near the burrow entrance two to four times per week with tongs or a feeding tube, especially in busy community tanks where fish may take food before it reaches the sand. A paired goby will share food, but it should not be relied on as the shrimp’s only source of nutrition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTiger Pistol Shrimp ignore most fish and corals, but they will defend their burrow from other bottom-dwelling shrimp and crabs. Keep only one shrimp per burrow unless you have a known mated pair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAvoid predatory fish that eat ornamental shrimp, including triggerfish, puffers, hawkfish, lionfish, large wrasses, and dottybacks. Peaceful reef fish, gobies, blennies, clownfish, and tangs are generally safe companions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis species is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e and does not eat corals. The main risk is its digging: coral frags placed on the sand near a burrow can be buried or tipped over, so mount frags on rock or glue them in place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrip acclimate slowly, since shrimp are sensitive to sudden changes in salinity and pH. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eThe snap is normal:\u003c\/strong\u003e The loud popping or clicking sound is how the shrimp communicates and defends itself. It is not a sign of stress.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSecure your rockwork:\u003c\/strong\u003e Place rock on the bottom glass before adding sand so tunneling cannot undermine it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eExpect it to hide at first:\u003c\/strong\u003e New shrimp often stay out of sight for several days while they dig and settle.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting is natural:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shed exoskeletons can look like a dead shrimp. The shrimp will hide for a day or two while its new shell hardens.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"SmallMedium","offer_id":51474470043946,"sku":"SHRIMPxTigerPistM","price":39.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large\/XL","offer_id":50884380524842,"sku":"SHRIMPxTigerPistL","price":52.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-tiger-pistol-shrimp-1251206377.png?v=1785173141"},{"product_id":"tuxedo-urchin","title":"Tuxedo Urchin","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eSea Urchins are incredible powerhouses when it comes to clearing algae out of a reef. These echinoderms, related to starfish, venture around on their countless tube feet as they use their small, conical ring of ‘teeth’ to scrape algae, sponges, and other particulate foods off of most tank surfaces. Urchins are typically quite active and ravenous, and a single individual can make a huge impact on the presence of both encrusting and filamentous algae in both reef and fish-only systems. While reef-safe, it is highly recommended that any loose corals be glued down, as sea urchins in general have a tendency to accumulate objects to use as a sort of ‘cover’ from predators. If considering introducing an urchin to a fish-only system, be aware that some larger wrasse, trigger and puffer species are capable of consuming urchins.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117735846186,"sku":"URCHINxTuxedo","price":44.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-tuxedo-urchin-1146290911.webp?v=1786386636"},{"product_id":"variegated-urchin","title":"Variegated Urchin","description":"\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Variegated Sea Urchin,\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003eLytechinus variegatus\u003c\/em\u003e, has been a popular invertebrate in saltwater aquariums for many years. Though these urchins have previously been captive bred for research purposes, ORA is pleased to make these aquacultured urchins commercially available to the Aquarium Industry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Variegated Sea Urchin, a type of pincushion urchin, originates from the tropical waters of the Western Atlantic and can usually be found roving shallow sea grass flats and other sandy substrates.  In the home aquarium, these urchins are extremely effective herbivores, rapidly consuming nuisance algae. Consequently, aquarists must be sure to provide supplementary macro algae if none is available in the aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile roaming the aquarium these urchins will frequently display an interesting “covering behavior”.  Whether for camouflage or protection from UV radiation they can be observed holding onto small rocks, shells, and pieces of macro algae with their tube feet.  ORA Variegated Sea Urchins will certainly be a hard working and beneficial addition to any aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Herbivore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes, with caution\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e About 3 inches across\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Aquacultured (native to the Western Atlantic and Caribbean)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eLytechinus variegatus\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePlace this aquacultured urchin in an established aquarium with visible algae and plenty of rock or glass surface to graze. One urchin for every 30–50 gallons keeps competition for food in check.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Variegated Sea Urchin is a strong grazer of film algae, hair algae, and diatoms, and it will also scrape at coralline algae. When natural algae becomes scarce, offer dried seaweed or algae wafers several times per week so it does not go hungry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis urchin is peaceful with fish, corals, and other invertebrates. Avoid triggerfish, puffers, large wrasses, and harlequin shrimp, which prey on urchins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Variegated Urchin is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe with caution\u003c\/strong\u003e. It will not eat corals, but it may move or topple unsecured frags as it forages, so glue loose pieces in place.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrip acclimate slowly, as urchins are sensitive to salinity swings. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAquacultured:\u003c\/strong\u003e Captive-raised urchins adapt readily to aquarium life.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSupplement algae:\u003c\/strong\u003e Add seaweed or wafers once nuisance algae is gone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSecure frags:\u003c\/strong\u003e Its covering behavior can relocate loose items.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWatch for spine loss:\u003c\/strong\u003e Losing spines is an early sign of stress.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117736763690,"sku":"URCHINxVarieg","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/Variegated-Urchin.webp?v=1789152795"},{"product_id":"tiger-sand-conch","title":"Tiger Sand Conch","description":"\u003ch2\u003eTiger Sand Conch – \u003cem\u003eConomurex luhuanus\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Tiger Sand Conch is an attractive and highly functional saltwater aquarium invertebrate known for its cream, tan, and orange-brown patterned shell. Its elongated eyestalks, flexible feeding proboscis, and unusual hopping movement give it considerably more personality than the average cleanup-crew snail. The shell’s interior may display rich orange, red, or pink coloration, which also inspires the common name Strawberry Conch. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCommonly sold as the Tiger Conch, Strawberry Conch, or Tiger Sand Conch, \u003cem\u003eConomurex luhuanus\u003c\/em\u003e is native to tropical Indo-Pacific waters. It naturally inhabits sandy areas around coral reefs, where it grazes algae, biofilm, and organic material from the substrate. The older scientific name \u003cem\u003eStrombus luhuanus\u003c\/em\u003e remains widely used in the aquarium trade, but \u003cem\u003eConomurex luhuanus\u003c\/em\u003e is the currently accepted name. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eReaching up to approximately 3 inches, this peaceful conch is well suited to established reef aquariums and fish-only aquariums with ample open sand. Its constant grazing helps keep the substrate surface cleaner and lightly disturbed, making it both a useful and visually interesting addition to a balanced marine cleanup crew. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 20 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Herbivore and Detritivore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eConomurex luhuanus\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProvide a mature saltwater aquarium with a broad area of fine- to medium-grain sand. Open substrate space is especially important because the Tiger Sand Conch spends much of its time moving across the sand while grazing. Arrange live rock so that it does not block the majority of the aquarium floor or create narrow spaces where the conch could become trapped.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA sand depth of approximately 1–2 inches is suitable for normal foraging and partial burrowing behavior. Moderate, well-distributed water movement is appropriate, provided the flow does not continually shift the substrate or tumble the animal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis conch moves using a modified muscular foot and operculum, producing a distinctive hopping or lunging motion rather than the slow glide associated with many snails. Leave clear routes across the sand and secure small coral fragments that could be displaced by its movement. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Tiger Sand Conch grazes algae films, diatoms, detritus, and organic matter from the sand surface. Its long proboscis allows it to search between sand grains and collect edible material while moving across the substrate. It is especially valuable in mature aquariums with naturally occurring biofilm and light algae growth. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSupplemental feeding may be necessary in new, exceptionally clean, or lightly stocked aquariums. Offer small pieces of marine algae sheet, sinking herbivore pellets, algae wafers, spirulina-based foods, or frozen herbivore blends near the conch. Small amounts of leftover mysis shrimp and other marine foods may also be scavenged.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFeed two or three times per week when natural grazing material is limited. Avoid keeping more conchs than the available sandbed and food supply can support, as slow starvation can occur in overly clean systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis species is peaceful toward fish, corals, shrimp, snails, and other non-predatory aquarium inhabitants. It may be kept singly or in groups when the aquarium provides sufficient open sand and enough food for every specimen.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSuitable tankmates include peaceful reef fish, ornamental shrimp, reef-safe crabs, and other cleanup-crew snails. Avoid puffers, triggerfish, large predatory wrasses, and other species known to consume mollusks. Large or aggressive hermit crabs may also attack the conch for food or attempt to take its shell.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Tiger Sand Conch may occasionally remain partially buried or motionless for extended periods. This can be normal resting behavior, particularly when food is not immediately available.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Tiger Sand Conch is considered \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e. It grazes the substrate and does not normally consume healthy corals, anemones, clams, ornamental shrimp, or other desirable reef inhabitants. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts strong hopping movement may accidentally shift loose coral fragments, small rocks, or frags placed directly on the sand. Secure delicate corals and leave unobstructed paths across the substrate. While its activity helps keep the sand surface cleaner and lightly aerated, it does not replace routine aquarium maintenance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaintain stable salinity and introduce the conch gradually when aquarium and transport-water conditions differ. Like other marine snails, it should never be exposed to copper-based medications. Stability is more important than repeatedly adjusting the aquarium to reach one exact value. Adult specimens have been maintained under controlled conditions at approximately 77–79°F and a specific gravity of 1.025–1.027. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRequires open sand:\u003c\/strong\u003e Dense rockwork with little exposed substrate limits its natural feeding behavior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSupplement clean aquariums:\u003c\/strong\u003e Provide algae-based sinking foods when natural biofilm and detritus are scarce.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSecure loose frags:\u003c\/strong\u003e Its strong hopping movement may displace lightweight objects resting on the sand.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAvoid copper exposure:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper-based medications are unsafe for this and other marine snails.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eProtect it from predators:\u003c\/strong\u003e Puffers, triggers, predatory wrasses, and aggressive crustaceans may attack or consume it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117814948138,"sku":"CONCHxTiger","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-tiger-sand-conch-1251206376.png?v=1785173112"},{"product_id":"chocolate-chip-starfish","title":"Chocolate Chip Starfish","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Chocolate Chip Starfish is a highly recognizable ornamental sea star that has always had instant appeal within the saltwater aquarium community. Chocolate Chip Starfish are opportunistic eaters which means they will eat detritus, sponges, shellfish, clams, and decaying animal and plant matter. For this reason these starfish are not reef safe and should only be kept in FOWLR saltwater aquariums only. They should be kept in larger saltwater aquariums with mild tempered fish. You should avoid housing them with predatory fish such as triggers and puffers as they are slow moving and can easily become a meal. Similar to other invertebrates, Chocolate Chip Starfish do not tolerate copper, high levels of nitrates or parameter swings in an aquarium.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eNote: Chocolate chip starfish are not reef safe as they will eat most coral and eventually invertabrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Chocolate Chip Starfish (Protoreaster nodosus) – Unique \u0026amp; Hardy Aquarium Scavenger\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nThe chocolate chip starfish (Protoreaster nodosus) is a striking and hardy sea star, easily recognized by the raised, dark “chocolate chip” nodules along its arms. These starfish are excellent scavengers, feeding on detritus, uneaten food, and decaying organic matter in fish-only and FOWLR (Fish Only With Live Rock) aquariums.\n\nHowever, chocolate chip starfish are not reef-safe, as they may consume corals, sponges, and other sessile invertebrates. They are best suited for larger, well-established aquariums with non-aggressive fish.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nCare Level: Easy to Moderate – Hardy but sensitive to water quality changes\nMinimum Tank Size: 50+ gallons\nAquarium Setup: Prefers sandy substrates and live rock for foraging\nChocolate chip starfish require stable salinity and a well-established aquarium with plenty of natural food sources. They should not be exposed to sudden parameter shifts, as they are sensitive to environmental changes.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nChocolate chip starfish are opportunistic scavengers, consuming a variety of foods found in the aquarium.\n\nDiet: Omnivorous – Prefers meaty foods, detritus, and algae\nRecommended Foods:\nChopped shrimp, squid, and fish\nFrozen or fresh marine meaty foods\nAlgae wafers and sinking pellets (for supplemental feeding)\nThey should be target-fed regularly to ensure they receive adequate nutrition, especially in tanks with limited natural food availability.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nLifespan: 5-10 years\nGrowth Rate: Slow – Can grow up to 12 inches in large aquariums\nWith proper care and stable water conditions, chocolate chip starfish can live for several years and grow to a substantial size.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nTemperament: Peaceful – Does not interact with or harm fish\nReef Safe? No – Will consume corals, sponges, and other sessile invertebrates\nAvoid housing with aggressive fish like puffers or triggers, which may nip at their tube feet and soft tissue.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nNot Reef-Safe: Will prey on corals, sponges, and small invertebrates.\nSensitive to Salinity Changes: Requires stable water conditions and slow acclimation.\nMay Require Supplemental Feeding: If food is scarce, regular target feeding is necessary.\nFor best results, maintain stable water parameters and provide a well-balanced diet.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nTemperature: 74-80°F\ndKH (Alkalinity): 8-12\npH: 8.1-8.4\nSpecific Gravity: 1.024-1.026\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117815144746,"sku":"STARxChocolate","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-chocolate-chip-starfish-1146290872.jpg?v=1784208233"},{"product_id":"emerald-crab","title":"Emerald Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Emerald Mithrax Crab is a commonly kept crustacean and is widely known for its ability to help control outbreaks of bubble algae in reef aquariums. These crabs are, however, omnivorous and will not hesitate to help clean up any excess or leftover meaty foods or waste that can settle on or in various surfaces of the tank. Emerald Crabs tend to stay hidden away during the day, emerging from small crevices or ledges to hunt and scavenge for algae and other debris at night. Although generally peaceful, in the absence of sufficient food, Emerald Crabs may demonstrate opportunistic behavior and attempt to predate on smaller invertebrates, fishes, and sometimes corals, so it is imperative to keep them well fed in established systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Emerald Crab (Efficient Algae Controller \u0026amp; Cleanup Crew)\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nEmerald crabs (Mithraculus sculptus) are hardy, algae-eating invertebrates that play a crucial role in controlling nuisance algae in reef aquariums. Known for their bright green exoskeleton and powerful claws, these scavengers specialize in consuming bubble algae (Valonia spp.), making them a valuable addition to any cleanup crew.\n\nThese crabs are low-maintenance and adaptable, often seen climbing rock structures or hiding in crevices during the day before emerging to scavenge at night.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nCare Level: Easy – Adaptable and low-maintenance\nMinimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons\nAquarium Setup: Requires ample rockwork for hiding and foraging\nEmerald crabs are nocturnal scavengers, spending most of the day hiding in rock crevices before emerging at night to graze on algae and organic debris.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nEmerald crabs are omnivorous and require a varied diet to thrive.\n\nDiet: Omnivorous – Prefers algae, detritus, and leftover food\nRecommended Foods:\nBubble algae (primary natural food source)\nHair algae, film algae, and uneaten fish food\nSupplemental seaweed and algae-based pellets if algae is scarce\nIf food becomes limited, emerald crabs may opportunistically scavenge, so regular supplemental feeding ensures they remain reef-safe.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nLifespan: 2-4 years\nGrowth Rate: Moderate – Typically reaches 2 inches across\nAs they grow, emerald crabs shed their exoskeleton through molting, which is a natural process that may make them appear vulnerable for a short time.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nTemperament: Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive – Generally peaceful but may show territorial behavior if underfed\nReef Safe? With Caution – Completely safe for corals but may prey on small invertebrates if hungry\nAvoid housing them with aggressive crabs, triggerfish, puffers, or large wrasses, as these species may harass or eat them.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nOpportunistic Feeding: If food is scarce, they may target small shrimp or slow-moving invertebrates.\nTerritorial in Small Tanks: Best kept in larger systems with plenty of food and hiding spots.\nMolting Vulnerability: Newly molted crabs hide until their shell hardens, reducing visibility for a short period.\nTo ensure safe and effective cleanup, provide a well-established tank with algae and detritus.\n\n\u003c\/p\u003e\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\nTemperature: 74-80°F\ndKH (Alkalinity): 8-12\npH: 8.1-8.4\nSpecific Gravity: 1.024-1.026\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117815177514,"sku":"CRABxEmerald","price":7.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-emerald-crab-1253590351.png?v=1786137757"},{"product_id":"scarlett-red-hermit-crabs","title":"Scarlet Hermit Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Scarlet Leg Hermit Crab is a slightly larger relative of the more common red and blue leg hermit crabs. Similar to their close relatives, Scarlet Leg Hermits and powerhouses at consuming nuisance algae including hair algae, diatoms and cyanobacteria. Scarlet Leg hermit crabs make for stunning additions to any reef tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Scarlet Red Hermit Crab (Paguristes cadenati) – Peaceful \u0026amp; Colorful Cleanup Crew\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScarlet red hermit crabs (Paguristes cadenati) are one of the most peaceful hermit crab species, making them a top choice for reef aquariums. Recognized for their bright red legs and yellow eye stalks, they stand out as both an attractive and functional cleanup crew member. Unlike other hermit crab species, scarlet reds prefer to be housed only with their own kind and should not be mixed with blue leg, red leg, or other colored hermit crabs. They thrive in well-established tanks with ample rockwork, sand, and available empty shells.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Low-maintenance and beginner-friendly Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons Aquarium Setup: Requires rockwork, sand, and spare shells for growth Scarlet red hermit crabs are active foragers, spending most of their time grazing on algae and scavenging for leftover food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eScarlet red hermit crabs are omnivorous scavengers, meaning they consume a mix of algae, detritus, and meaty foods. Diet: Omnivorous – Prefers hair algae, detritus, and leftover food Recommended Foods: Hair algae, diatoms, and film algae Uneaten fish food and organic waste Algae wafers and sinking pellets (if food is scarce) Providing supplemental food ensures healthy growth and reduces competition for resources.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 2-4 years Growth Rate: Slow – Typically reaches up to 1.5 inches As hermit crabs grow, they must molt and find larger shells, so providing a variety of empty shells is essential.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Less aggressive than other hermit crab species Reef Safe? Yes – Safe for corals and fish Should not be housed with other hermit crab species (blue leg, red leg, electric blue, etc.), as they prefer to be kept with their own kind. To prevent stress, house them only with other scarlet red hermits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eShould Only Be Kept With Their Own Kind: Do not mix with other hermit crab species. May Dislodge Corals: Can accidentally knock over frags or small corals while foraging. Opportunistic Scavenger: If underfed, may pick at soft tissue or weakened tankmates. Providing ample food sources and extra shells ensures a peaceful and effective cleanup crew.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 74-80°F dKH (Alkalinity): 8-12 pH: 8.1-8.4 Specific Gravity: 1.024-1.026\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117815210282,"sku":"CRABxScarlett","price":7.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-scarlett-red-hermit-crab-1232074089.png?v=1776029229"},{"product_id":"halloween-urchin","title":"Halloween Urchin","description":"\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eSea Urchins are incredible powerhouses when it comes to clearing algae out of a reef. These echinoderms, related to starfish, venture around on their countless tube feet as they use their small, conical ring of ‘teeth’ to scrape algae, sponges, and other particulate foods off of most tank surfaces. Urchins are typically quite active and ravenous, and a single individual can make a huge impact on the presence of both encrusting and filamentous algae in both reef and fish-only systems. While reef-safe, it is highly recommended that any loose corals be glued down, as sea urchins in general have a tendency to accumulate objects to use as a sort of ‘cover’ from predators. If considering introducing an urchin to a fish-only system, be aware that some larger wrasses, triggerfish, and other predators are capable of consuming urchins.\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117815308586,"sku":"URCHINxHalloween","price":59.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-halloween-urchin-1228439877.png?v=1774121291"},{"product_id":"skunk-cleaner-shrimp","title":"Skunk Cleaner Shrimp","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eSkunk Cleaner Shrimp are some of the most interesting shrimp available in the hobby. These shrimp will “clean” your fish for you. Also known as the Red Skunk Cleaner Shrimp due to the distinct pair of bright red stripes that outline the single white stripe running down it’s back. These very active shrimp will act like a medic in a saltwater aquarium. They will set up on your rock structure or coral outcroppings and wait while fish will come by to be cleansed of dead tissue or ectoparasites. Many fish will even allow these shrimp to clean the inside of their mouths without bringing any harm to the shrimp. Skunk Cleaner Shrimp will thrive in aquariums with plenty of rockwork and peaceful tank mates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 20 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivorous Scavenger\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e About 2 inches\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eLysmata amboinensis\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA stable, established reef or fish-only aquarium with plenty of live rock is ideal. Caves and overhangs give the shrimp a place to retreat after molting, while open ledges become the “cleaning stations” where fish line up to be groomed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSkunk cleaner shrimp are sensitive to rapid changes in salinity, so a slow drip acclimation is strongly recommended. Once settled, they are hardy and long-lived when water quality stays consistent.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCleaning fish provides only a small part of this shrimp’s diet. Offer small portions of mysis, enriched brine shrimp, chopped seafood, and sinking pellets three to five times per week. Skunk cleaners quickly learn feeding times and will climb up to meet food, or even a hand, during feeding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWell-fed shrimp are less likely to steal food from corals. Some individuals will pluck meaty food from the mouths of LPS corals when underfed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSkunk Cleaner Shrimp can be kept singly, in pairs, or in small groups in larger aquariums. Each shrimp functions as both male and female, so any two adults can form a breeding pair.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThey get along with most peaceful reef fish and invertebrates. Avoid hawkfish, lionfish, triggerfish, puffers, large wrasses, and dottybacks, which may prey on ornamental shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, also known as the scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp, is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e. It does not harm corals, clams, or other invertebrates, apart from occasionally stealing food from coral polyps.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSalinity stability is especially important for cleaner shrimp, since swings often lead to failed molts. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimate slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimation over 45–60 minutes reduces salinity shock.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFeed it directly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not rely on cleaning alone to keep this shrimp fed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolts are normal:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shed exoskeletons often look like a dead shrimp. Molting every few weeks is a healthy sign.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAvoid copper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Never use copper-based fish treatments in a tank with cleaner shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Regular","offer_id":50770556715306,"sku":"SHRIMPxCleanerReg","price":42.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"X-Large","offer_id":50770556748074,"sku":"SHRIMPxCleanerXL","price":67.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-skunk-cleaner-shrimp-1251206374.png?v=1785173081"},{"product_id":"blood-red-fire-shrimp","title":"Blood Red Fire Shrimp","description":"\u003cp\u003eBlood Red Fire Shrimp are among the most striking ornamental shrimp in the saltwater aquarium hobby, known for their deep scarlet-red coloration, bright white spots, and long white antennae. Also called Fire Shrimp, Blood Shrimp, or Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp, Lysmata debelius are peaceful reef shrimp that may establish cleaning stations where fish can visit to have dead tissue, mucus, debris, or external parasites removed. Their bold color makes them a standout addition to reef aquariums, though they are often more secretive than Skunk Cleaner Shrimp and may spend much of their time under ledges, in caves, or near shaded rockwork.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Blood Red Fire Shrimp (Striking Cleaner Shrimp \u0026amp; Reef Aquarium Showpiece)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlood Red Fire Shrimp (Lysmata debelius) are highly desirable ornamental cleaner shrimp prized for their intense red body, white markings, and elegant antennae. In the wild, they are found in Indo-Pacific reef environments where they inhabit caves, crevices, ledges, and shaded reef structures. Their natural behavior gives insight into their care: they appreciate secure hiding places, lower-light retreats, and peaceful tankmates that allow them to feel comfortable enough to come out and feed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn the aquarium, Blood Red Fire Shrimp may act as cleaner shrimp, though they are generally less bold and visible than Skunk Cleaner Shrimp. Many individuals will choose a shaded area of rockwork as their home base and become more active during feeding time or after the lights dim.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Hardy when kept in stable, established aquariums\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires live rock, caves, ledges, shaded areas, and peaceful tankmates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlood Red Fire Shrimp do best in mature saltwater aquariums with stable water quality and plenty of rockwork for shelter. They may hide when first introduced and can remain reclusive in very bright or high-traffic aquariums. Providing caves, overhangs, and lower-light areas will help them feel secure and may encourage more visible behavior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlood Red Fire Shrimp are carnivorous scavengers and cleaners that feed on meaty foods, leftover foods, mucus, dead tissue, and organic debris.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Carnivorous Scavenger – Prefers meaty foods and small animal-based foods\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eFrozen mysis shrimp\u003cbr\u003eBrine shrimp\u003cbr\u003eFinely chopped seafood\u003cbr\u003eSinking carnivore pellets\u003cbr\u003eHigh-quality flakes\u003cbr\u003eSmall meaty foods from regular fish feedings\u003cbr\u003eLeftover foods that reach the rockwork or substrate\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough Blood Red Fire Shrimp may clean fish, they still require regular feeding in the aquarium. They should not be expected to survive only on parasites or leftover waste. Target feeding small portions near their chosen cave or ledge can help ensure they receive enough food, especially in aquariums with fast-feeding fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 2-4+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate – Can grow up to about 2 inches\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlood Red Fire Shrimp grow by molting and require stable water parameters to molt successfully. After molting, they may hide for a short period while their new exoskeleton hardens. Maintaining stable salinity, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, iodine, and trace elements helps support healthy molting and long-term condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Safe with peaceful fish, corals, and most reef invertebrates\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? Yes – Does not harm corals, though it may climb on them or steal food during coral feedings\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlood Red Fire Shrimp are excellent choices for peaceful reef aquariums and community saltwater systems. They are generally safe with corals and reef fish, but they should not be housed with shrimp predators such as triggers, puffers, hawkfish, large wrasses, lionfish, groupers, large crabs, or other animals that may eat ornamental shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCan Be Shy: Blood Red Fire Shrimp are often more reclusive than Skunk Cleaner Shrimp and may spend much of the day under ledges or in caves.\u003cbr\u003eNeeds Regular Feeding: Cleaning behavior alone is not enough to sustain them long term.\u003cbr\u003eMay Steal Food From Corals: They may pull food from LPS corals, anemones, or other target-fed invertebrates.\u003cbr\u003eTerritorial With Their Own Kind: Multiple individuals may not tolerate each other unless kept as a compatible pair or in a spacious aquarium.\u003cbr\u003eMolting Sensitivity: Sudden changes in salinity, pH, or alkalinity can cause stress during molting.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like all marine shrimp, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003cbr\u003eNot a Parasite Cure: Cleaner shrimp may help remove debris or some external parasites, but they are not a replacement for quarantine or proper disease treatment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, acclimate them carefully, provide shaded hiding places, keep them with peaceful tankmates, feed consistently, and avoid copper exposure or sudden water parameter swings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117815472426,"sku":"SHRIMPxBlood","price":79.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-blood-red-fire-shrimp-1253590348.png?v=1786137729"},{"product_id":"harlequin-shrimp","title":"Harlequin Shrimp","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eHarlequin Shrimp have become very popular within the saltwater aquarium hobby, not only for their stunning colors and unusual behavior, but also their appetite for a variety of nuisance starfish species, such as asterinas. While these shrimp have seemingly large claws, these are not used for hunting but rather for social displays. Harlequin Shrimp tend to do best when kept in pairs in saltwater aquariums with moderate lighting and plenty of small caves, crevices and overhangs. Harlequin Shrimp will ONLY feed on the tube feet of starfish and urchins, and will rapidly starve and deteriorate in the absence of these prey animals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"SM","offer_id":51051057774890,"sku":"SHRIMPxHarlequinS","price":79.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"L\/XL","offer_id":50770558877994,"sku":"SHRIMPxHarlequinXL","price":99.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/harlequin-shrimp-for-sale.webp?v=1789152538"},{"product_id":"tiger-tail-cucumber","title":"Tiger Tail Cucumber","description":"\u003cp data-mce-fragment=\"1\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-fragment=\"1\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eSea Cucumbers are among some of the most efficient sandbed cleaners in the reefing hobby. Sea Cucumbers are distant relatives of sea stars and sea urchins, sporting the same tube feet along the underside of their elongate bodies which they use for locomotion. These animals are primarily detritivores, cruising through the sandbed at night and filtering out small particulate organic matter before excreting the remaining sand back out. Due to their direct ingestion of sand, sea cucumbers are extremely efficient at cleaning large volumes over a short period of time. It should be noted that during the day, many species of sea cucumber will hide in, underneath or between rockwork for protection and may not be seen.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 50 gallons with a mature sand bed\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Detritivore (sand sifter)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e Up to about 12 inches extended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eHolothuria hilla\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber is named for its long, tapering body, which is tan to orange with darker bands and pale, bumpy papillae. It stretches out to feed and contracts when disturbed, so its apparent size changes considerably from day to night.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA large, established sand bed at least 2 inches deep is essential, since this cucumber feeds by processing sand for organic material. Newly set-up tanks and bare-bottom systems do not provide enough food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCover pump intakes and overflow openings with guards. A cucumber that is pulled into a pump can release toxins that harm fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Tiger Tail Cucumber eats detritus, bacteria, and microorganisms from the sand. In very clean or lightly stocked tanks, place sinking pellets or powdered foods on the sand near it once or twice per week. A cucumber that steadily shrinks is not finding enough food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis cucumber is completely peaceful and compatible with most reef fish and invertebrates. Avoid puffers, triggerfish, and fish known to pick at slow-moving invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Tiger Tail Sea Cucumber is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e. Its sand sifting helps keep the substrate clean and aerated without disturbing corals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrip acclimate slowly. Sea cucumbers are sensitive to sudden salinity changes. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGuard pumps and overflows:\u003c\/strong\u003e Injured cucumbers can release toxins into the water.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eKeep activated carbon on hand:\u003c\/strong\u003e Running fresh carbon helps if a cucumber becomes stressed or injured.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNeeds a mature sand bed:\u003c\/strong\u003e Established sand is its main food source.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWatch for shrinking:\u003c\/strong\u003e Steady shrinking means it needs supplemental food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117815570730,"sku":"CUCMBRxTiger","price":43.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-tiger-tail-cucumber-1146290870.jpg?v=1784208148"},{"product_id":"sand-sifting-starfish","title":"Sand Sifting Starfish","description":"\u003ch2\u003eSand Sifting Starfish – \u003cem\u003eArchaster typicus\u003c\/em\u003e\n\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Sand Sifting Starfish, also known as the Indo-Pacific Comb Star, is a distinctive marine invertebrate with a broad central disc, five tapered arms, and rows of pale marginal spines. Its cream, gray, and brown patterning provides excellent camouflage against the substrate, where it spends much of its time buried beneath the surface.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNative to sandy and silty habitats throughout the tropical Indo-Pacific, \u003cem\u003eArchaster typicus\u003c\/em\u003e moves through soft sediment in search of small mollusks, worms, crustaceans, and other bottom-dwelling prey. Adults can reach approximately 8 inches across. The common trade name is also occasionally applied to similar-looking species such as \u003cem\u003eAstropecten polyacanthus\u003c\/em\u003e, so appearance and collection origin may vary between shipments. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIts burrowing activity can keep the sand surface visibly disturbed, but this species should not be treated as a simple cleanup-crew animal. It consumes beneficial sandbed organisms along with unwanted organic material and can exhaust its natural food supply in smaller or immature aquariums. Long-term care is best attempted in a large, established reef aquarium or fish-only aquarium with an expansive, biologically productive sandbed. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 100 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivore \u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eArchaster typicus\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProvide a mature saltwater aquarium with a broad, unobstructed area of fine sand. A substrate approximately 2–4 inches deep allows the starfish to bury itself and forage naturally. Coarse crushed coral, sharp gravel, and bare-bottom aquariums are unsuitable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe available sandbed footprint is more important than water volume alone. Dense rockwork should be arranged so it cannot shift or trap the starfish, while open routes should remain available around and beneath the aquascape. Moderate, indirect water movement is appropriate, but exposed pump and overflow intakes should be guarded.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis species should only be introduced to a thoroughly established aquarium with a productive population of sand-dwelling organisms. Adding one to a new, sterile, or frequently disturbed sandbed creates a substantial risk of starvation. Keep only one in most home aquariums; multiple specimens require a significantly larger area and compete for the same limited food supply. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAcclimate slowly because sea stars are sensitive to abrupt changes in temperature, salinity, and other water conditions. Handle as little as possible and never lift or move the animal by one arm.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Sand Sifting Starfish is primarily a predator of small animals living within the substrate. Members of the genus \u003cem\u003eAstropecten\u003c\/em\u003e consume mollusks, polychaete worms, crustaceans, and other benthic organisms, often swallowing small prey whole. It is not an algae eater and should not be expected to control diatoms, hair algae, or cyanobacteria. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA mature, biologically active sandbed must provide the foundation of its diet. Supplemental foods may include small pieces of chopped clam, mussel, shrimp, mysis shrimp, sinking carnivore pellets, and finely chopped marine seafood placed beneath the sand near the starfish. Offer a small targeted feeding once or twice weekly when the animal accepts prepared food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSupplemental feeding does not guarantee long-term success. Some specimens ignore offered foods, while others continue depleting the sandbed faster than its microfauna can recover. Monitor the starfish for loss of body mass, shortened or thinning arms, slow movement, tissue deterioration, or failure to emerge during feeding. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis sea star is peaceful toward fish and does not display territorial behavior. Suitable tankmates include peaceful reef fish, clownfish, gobies, cardinalfish, tangs, blennies, and other species that do not prey upon echinoderms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIt is not peaceful toward all sand-dwelling invertebrates. Small snails, juvenile bivalves, worms, tiny crustaceans, brittle stars, and other infauna may be consumed while it forages. This predatory activity can significantly reduce the biodiversity of a live sandbed. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAvoid housing it with harlequin shrimp, puffers, triggerfish, large predatory wrasses, aggressive crabs, or other animals known to attack or consume sea stars.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Sand Sifting Starfish is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e. It does not normally eat healthy corals and can move beneath established reef structures without deliberately damaging them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe primary concern is its effect on beneficial sandbed life. It may consume small mollusks, worms, crustaceans, and other organisms that contribute to a diverse substrate ecosystem. Unsecured coral frags resting on the sand may also be shifted or buried as the starfish moves below them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMaintain consistent salinity, good oxygenation, and stable water quality. Avoid rapid parameter changes and never expose the starfish to copper-based medications. Stability is more important than repeatedly adjusting the aquarium to reach one exact reading.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLong-term starvation is the primary risk:\u003c\/strong\u003e A specimen can remain active for an extended period while gradually exhausting the sandbed’s food supply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRequires a large, mature sandbed:\u003c\/strong\u003e Small, new, bare-bottom, or exceptionally clean aquariums are unsuitable.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot an algae-control animal:\u003c\/strong\u003e It feeds mainly on small invertebrates and other edible material within the substrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSensitive to acclimation errors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Introduce it slowly and avoid sudden changes in salinity or temperature.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117815603498,"sku":"STARxSandSift","price":29.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-sand-sifting-starfish-1249225524.png?v=1784143211"},{"product_id":"lettuce-nudibranch","title":"Lettuce Nudibranch","description":"\u003cp\u003eUnlike most other sea slug species, Sea Lettuce Nudibranchs (Elysia sp.) are among the best suited for reef aquariums. As opposed to many other sea slug species who often select for very specific types of prey, Sea Lettuce Nudibranchs have adapted to thrive on consuming a variety of soft green algae species. This trait has made them a popular choice in the home aquarium for their ability to tackle some of the most annoying filamentous green algae species, including bryopsis and hair algae. In addition to consuming a number of these nuisance algae, Sea Lettuce Nudibranchs are also capable of integrating the chloroplasts of the algae they consume into their own tissues (kleptoplasty), allowing them to photosynthesize by proxy and survive for moderate periods in the absence of algae. Sea Lettuce Nudibranchs perform best in reef aquariums with an abundance of green algae and in the absence of predators such as wrasses and butterflyfish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 20 gallons with established algae growth\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Herbivore (green algae)\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e About 2 inches\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caribbean and Western Atlantic\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eElysia crispata\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLettuce Sea Slug or Nudibranch?\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough it is sold as the Lettuce Nudibranch, \u003cem\u003eElysia crispata\u003c\/em\u003e is technically a sap-sucking sea slug (a sacoglossan) rather than a true nudibranch. The frilly, lettuce-like folds along its back give it its common name and house the chloroplasts it collects from the algae it eats.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChoose a mature reef aquarium with a steady supply of green algae. A newly set-up tank or one that is already spotless rarely has enough food to support this slug for long.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCover pump intakes, overflow openings, and powerhead guards with foam or mesh. Sea slugs roam freely and can be pulled into equipment. Moderate lighting and gentle to moderate flow are ideal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Lettuce Sea Slug feeds by piercing algae cells and drawing out their contents. It prefers green filamentous and bubbly algae, and many aquarists use it to help manage bryopsis and hair algae. Results vary between individuals and algae types, so it works best alongside nutrient control rather than as a sole cure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFew prepared foods are accepted. If algae begins to run out, move the slug to a system that still has growth or be prepared to rehome it before it loses condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis slug is peaceful toward fish, corals, and other invertebrates, and several can share a large tank with plenty of algae. Avoid wrasses, butterflyfish, puffers, and other fish known to pick at slugs and soft-bodied invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Lettuce Nudibranch is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe\u003c\/strong\u003e. It grazes only algae and does not harm corals, clams, or crustaceans.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrip acclimate slowly and keep salinity steady. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNeeds algae to survive:\u003c\/strong\u003e Only add this slug to a tank with visible green algae it can graze.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGuard your pumps:\u003c\/strong\u003e Intake covers prevent slugs from being injured by pumps and overflows.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNot a guaranteed bryopsis cure:\u003c\/strong\u003e Treat it as one tool alongside nutrient control and manual removal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWatch its body shape:\u003c\/strong\u003e A thin, shrunken appearance usually means it is running out of food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117815636266,"sku":"NUDIxLettuce","price":22.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-lettuce-nudibranch-1232074086.png?v=1776029256"},{"product_id":"orange-linckia-starfish","title":"Orange Linckia Starfish","description":"\u003cp data-end=\"403\" data-start=\"28\"\u003eOrange Linckia Starfish (\u003cem data-end=\"62\" data-start=\"53\"\u003eLinckia\u003c\/em\u003e species) are striking reef invertebrates known for their vibrant orange coloration, smooth body texture, and slow, graceful movement across rockwork and glass surfaces. These sea stars are commonly found in tropical reef environments where they spend their time scavenging biofilm, microbial growth, and organic material from hard surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"605\" data-start=\"405\"\u003eThey are considered one of the more delicate starfish available in the aquarium trade and are best suited for mature, well-established reef systems with abundant live rock and stable water conditions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"627\" data-start=\"607\" data-section-id=\"1evwddo\"\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"893\" data-start=\"629\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"644\" data-start=\"629\"\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Difficult – Requires a mature aquarium with stable parameters and established live rock\u003cbr data-end=\"735\" data-start=\"732\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"757\" data-start=\"735\"\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75+ gallons\u003cbr data-end=\"772\" data-start=\"769\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"791\" data-start=\"772\"\u003eAquarium Setup:\u003c\/strong\u003e Well-established reef aquarium with abundant live rock, stable salinity, and minimal parameter swings\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1108\" data-start=\"895\"\u003eOrange Linckia Starfish require mature systems with naturally occurring biofilm and microbial growth to sustain long-term health. Newly established aquariums typically lack the biodiversity needed to support them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"1133\" data-start=\"1110\" data-section-id=\"a0ylww\"\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1278\" data-start=\"1135\"\u003eOrange Linckia Starfish primarily graze on biofilm, bacterial films, and microscopic organic material found on live rock and aquarium surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1364\" data-start=\"1280\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"1289\" data-start=\"1280\"\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Scavenger\/Grazer – Consumes biofilm and naturally occurring microorganisms\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"1395\" data-start=\"1366\" data-section-id=\"1s0mdyd\"\u003eRecommended Food Sources:\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eEstablished live rock with mature biofilm\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eNaturally occurring microbial films\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003eOrganic detritus and microfauna\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1704\" data-start=\"1514\"\u003eUnlike many other starfish, Orange Linckia Starfish are rarely observed directly accepting prepared foods. Long-term success heavily depends on the maturity and biodiversity of the aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"1735\" data-start=\"1706\" data-section-id=\"18awqjh\"\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1783\" data-start=\"1737\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"1750\" data-start=\"1737\"\u003eLifespan:\u003c\/strong\u003e 5+ years\u003cbr data-end=\"1762\" data-start=\"1759\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"1778\" data-start=\"1762\"\u003eGrowth Rate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Slow\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1930\" data-start=\"1785\"\u003eWith excellent water quality and a mature environment, Orange Linckia Starfish can live for several years and slowly regenerate tissue over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"1966\" data-start=\"1932\" data-section-id=\"t76pnm\"\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2042\" data-start=\"1968\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"1984\" data-start=\"1968\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful – Completely non-aggressive\u003cbr data-end=\"2024\" data-start=\"2021\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"2038\" data-start=\"2024\"\u003eReef Safe?\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2158\" data-start=\"2044\"\u003eOrange Linckia Starfish are considered reef safe and generally do not bother corals, fish, or other invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2285\" data-start=\"2160\"\u003eAvoid housing them with puffers, triggerfish, large wrasses, harlequin shrimp, or other species known to prey on echinoderms.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"2328\" data-start=\"2287\" data-section-id=\"kdvd6k\"\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"2357\" data-start=\"2330\" data-section-id=\"lugq73\"\u003eAcclimation Sensitivity\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2505\" data-start=\"2359\"\u003eOrange Linckia Starfish are extremely sensitive to sudden changes in salinity, temperature, and pH. Slow drip acclimation is strongly recommended.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"2526\" data-start=\"2507\" data-section-id=\"1r2ehy2\"\u003eStarvation Risk\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2638\" data-start=\"2528\"\u003eMany losses occur from slow starvation in aquariums that lack sufficient natural biofilm and microbial growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"2672\" data-start=\"2640\" data-section-id=\"u5urjc\"\u003eSensitivity to Water Quality\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2801\" data-start=\"2674\"\u003eRapid parameter swings, elevated nitrates, or unstable salinity can quickly lead to stress, tissue deterioration, or limb loss.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch3 data-end=\"2820\" data-start=\"2803\" data-section-id=\"ec0nsw\"\u003eTissue Damage\u003c\/h3\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2952\" data-start=\"2822\"\u003eExposure to air for prolonged periods or rough handling can damage sensitive tissue and increase the risk of bacterial infections.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"2973\" data-start=\"2954\" data-section-id=\"52w0mo\"\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"3081\" data-start=\"2975\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"2991\" data-start=\"2975\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–77°F\u003cbr data-end=\"3002\" data-start=\"2999\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"3023\" data-start=\"3002\"\u003edKH (Alkalinity):\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–9\u003cbr data-end=\"3030\" data-start=\"3027\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"3037\" data-start=\"3030\"\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.3\u003cbr data-end=\"3048\" data-start=\"3045\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"3069\" data-start=\"3048\"\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-is-only-node=\"\" data-is-last-node=\"\" data-end=\"3231\" data-start=\"3083\"\u003eExcellent water stability, abundant mature live rock, and long-term system maturity are key factors in successfully keeping Orange Linckia Starfish.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117815931178,"sku":"STARxLinckiaOrange","price":59.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-orange-linckia-starfish-1235118288.png?v=1777757172"},{"product_id":"pin-cushion-urchin","title":"Pink Pin Cushion Urchin","description":"\u003cp\u003eSea Urchins are incredible powerhouses when it comes to clearing algae out of a reef. These echinoderms, related to starfish, venture around on their countless tube feet as they use their small, conical ring of ‘teeth’ to scrape algae, sponges, and other particulate foods off of most tank surfaces. Urchins are typically quite active and ravenous, and a single individual can make a huge impact on the presence of both encrusting and filamentous algae in both reef and fish-only systems. While reef-safe, it is highly recommended that any loose corals be glued down, as sea urchins in general have a tendency to accumulate objects to use as a sort of ‘cover’ from predators. If considering introducing an urchin to a fish-only system, be aware that some larger wrasse, trigger and puffer species are capable of consuming urchins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Herbivore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes, with caution\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e About 3 inches across\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Western Atlantic and Caribbean\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eLytechinus variegatus\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eAbout the Pink Pin Cushion Urchin\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis pink pincushion urchin is a color form of \u003cem\u003eLytechinus variegatus\u003c\/em\u003e, a short-spined grazer from the seagrass beds and reef flats of the Caribbean. Its dense covering of short, soft pink spines gives it the rounded pincushion look that makes it a popular pick for reef aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAdd pincushion urchins to an established aquarium with visible algae growth and plenty of rock surface to graze. Allow roughly one urchin per 30–50 gallons so each has enough food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePin cushion urchins scrape film algae, hair algae, and diatoms from rock and glass. They will also graze coralline algae. Once nuisance algae is under control, supplement with dried seaweed clipped near the urchin or sinking algae wafers several times per week to prevent starvation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis urchin is peaceful and safe with fish, shrimp, crabs, and snails. Avoid triggerfish, puffers, large wrasses, and harlequin shrimp, all of which may prey on urchins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Pink Pin Cushion Urchin is \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe with caution\u003c\/strong\u003e. It does not eat corals, but it may carry off or knock over loose frags as it moves. Glue frags securely and expect some coralline algae grazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eUrchins are sensitive to low or fluctuating salinity. Drip acclimate slowly and keep specific gravity stable. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCovering behavior is normal:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carrying shells, rubble, or algae on its spines is natural and harmless.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpine loss is a warning sign:\u003c\/strong\u003e Dropping spines usually points to stress or poor water quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSupplement when algae runs out:\u003c\/strong\u003e A hungry urchin will decline quickly without added food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlue down frags:\u003c\/strong\u003e Loose corals may be moved or toppled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117816488234,"sku":"URCHINxPinCushPink","price":19.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-pink-pin-cushion-urchin-1228432196.png?v=1774114089"},{"product_id":"purple-reef-lobster","title":"Purple Reef Lobster","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe Purple Reef Lobster (\u003cem\u003eEnoplometopus debelius\u003c\/em\u003e), also called Debelius’ reef lobster or the purple spotted reef lobster, is one of the most colorful lobsters available to saltwater aquarists. Its pinkish-orange body and claws are covered in bold violet spots, making it a standout display animal for a reef or fish-only aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis reef lobster is a nocturnal scavenger from the Indo-Pacific. It spends the day wedged into a cave or crevice and emerges after dark to forage, so it is most often seen during feeding time or under moonlighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eQuick Care Guide\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 gallons\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Semi-Aggressive\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivorous Scavenger\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e With caution\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e Up to about 5 inches\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRegion:\u003c\/strong\u003e Indo-Pacific\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cem\u003eEnoplometopus debelius\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTank Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eProvide an established aquarium with sturdy, well-built rockwork that includes a cave slightly larger than the lobster itself. Reef lobsters rearrange rubble and sand around their dens, so secure the main rock structure before adding one.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet and Feeding\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFeed meaty foods such as mysis, krill, chopped shrimp, clam, squid, and sinking pellets three to four times per week. Target-feeding near its cave shortly after lights-out works best. Regular feeding also reduces the chance it will hunt tankmates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament and Tankmates\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Purple Reef Lobster is territorial and will fight with other lobsters, so keep one per tank unless you have a confirmed pair. It may catch small fish that sleep near the substrate and will prey on small shrimp, crabs, and snails.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGood tankmates include medium to large fish such as tangs, angelfish, and larger wrasses. Avoid small gobies, blennies, ornamental shrimp, and hermit crabs, as well as triggerfish, puffers, and groupers that may prey on the lobster.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eReef Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eConsider the Purple Reef Lobster \u003cstrong\u003ereef safe with caution\u003c\/strong\u003e. It does not eat corals, but it can topple loose frags and will eat small invertebrates. It is best suited to reef tanks without a large cleanup crew or ornamental shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Parameters\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75–80°F\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSpecific Gravity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.024–1.026\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003epH:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1–8.4\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8–12 dKH\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDrip acclimate slowly and keep parameters stable, especially around molts. Invertebrates are highly sensitive to copper, and copper-treated water or medications should never be added to an aquarium that houses them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOne per tank:\u003c\/strong\u003e Reef lobsters are territorial toward their own kind.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSmall tankmates are at risk:\u003c\/strong\u003e Small fish, shrimp, crabs, and snails may be eaten.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLeave molts alone:\u003c\/strong\u003e The lobster hides while its new shell hardens and may eat the old one for minerals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eNocturnal:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moonlighting is the best way to watch it forage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117873799466,"sku":"LOBSTERxPurple","price":49.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-purple-reef-lobster-1146287956.webp?v=1784208122"},{"product_id":"cerith-snails","title":"Cerith Snail","description":"\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Cerith Snail (Sand-Stirring Grazer \u0026amp; Cleanup Crew Essential)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerith Snails (Cerithium sp.) are small, hardy cleanup crew snails known for their ability to graze on algae, detritus, and leftover foods throughout the aquarium. Unlike many snails that spend most of their time on rockwork and glass, Cerith Snails often move along the sand bed and may partially bury themselves in the substrate. This behavior makes them especially useful for cleaning lower areas of the aquarium and helping keep the sand bed lightly turned over.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Hardy when kept in stable, established aquariums\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires live rock, sand, and algae-covered surfaces for grazing\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerith Snails do best in mature saltwater aquariums with stable water quality, live rock, and a sand bed. They are small enough for nano reefs but are also useful in larger cleanup crew packs. They should be acclimated carefully, as sudden changes in salinity, pH, or temperature can stress marine invertebrates. Like all snails, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerith Snails are omnivorous grazers and scavengers that feed on algae, detritus, and leftover foods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Omnivorous – Eats film algae, diatoms, detritus, leftover food, and soft algae growth\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eNaturally occurring algae on live rock, sand, and aquarium glass\u003cbr\u003eDiatoms and film algae\u003cbr\u003eDetritus and leftover fish food\u003cbr\u003eSupplemental dried seaweed or algae-based foods if natural food sources are low\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerith Snails are excellent routine cleaners, but they still require enough natural food to support long-term health. In very clean aquariums, supplemental feeding may be needed.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 1-3+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate – Can grow up to about 1.5 inches\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerith Snails stay small and manageable, making them a good choice for nano reefs, mixed cleanup crews, and aquariums where larger snails may be too disruptive. Maintaining stable calcium and alkalinity levels will help support healthy shell growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Does not bother fish, corals, or other peaceful invertebrates\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? Yes – Safe with corals, fish, and most reef invertebrates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCerith Snails are excellent choices for reef aquariums and peaceful community tanks. They can be kept with other cleanup crew animals such as trochus snails, nassarius snails, turbo snails, conchs, and small hermit crabs. Avoid housing them with snail predators such as triggers, puffers, hawkfish, aggressive wrasses, large crabs, or hermit crabs without extra empty shells.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeeds Established Food Sources: Cerith Snails should be added to tanks with enough algae, diatoms, detritus, or leftover food to support grazing.\u003cbr\u003eSand-Bed Activity: They may bury themselves or spend time under the surface of the sand, which is normal behavior.\u003cbr\u003eSmall Size: Because they stay small, they may be less effective for heavy algae outbreaks than larger turbo snails.\u003cbr\u003eFlipping Over: If they fall onto their backs and cannot right themselves, they may need assistance.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like most marine invertebrates, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Parameter Swings: Sudden changes in salinity, temperature, pH, or alkalinity can cause stress.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, acclimate them slowly, provide a mature aquarium with natural food sources, avoid copper exposure, and keep them with peaceful, reef-safe tankmates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117873832234,"sku":"SNAILxCerith","price":2.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-cerith-snail-1250946502.png?v=1784928191"},{"product_id":"coral-banded-shrimp","title":"Coral Banded Shrimp","description":"\u003cp data-topshelf-wwc\u003eThe Coral Banded Shrimp (\u003cem\u003eStenopus hispidus\u003c\/em\u003e) is the classic red-and-white boxer shrimp, found across the Indo-Pacific and Caribbean Sea. It is reef safe, territorial and moderate to care for. Read the full \u003ca href=\"\/pages\/saltwater-invertebrates\/coral-banded-shrimp\"\u003eCoral Banded Shrimp care guide\u003c\/a\u003e, or compare the \u003ca href=\"\/products\/gold-coral-banded-shrimp\"\u003eGold\u003c\/a\u003e, \u003ca href=\"\/products\/blue-coral-banded-shrimp\"\u003eBlue\u003c\/a\u003e and \u003ca href=\"\/products\/zanzibar-coral-banded-shrimp\"\u003eZanzibar\u003c\/a\u003e coral banded shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eCoral Banded Shrimp, also known as boxer shrimp, are one of the mostly commonly kept shrimp in the reefkeeping hobby. These shrimp, identified by the bright white and red bands on their bodies and large pincer claws, look considerably different from most other reef shrimp. As their appearance suggests, Coral Banded Shrimp are substantially more aggressive than most other shrimp species, however they only pose a threat to other smaller invertebrates who intrude on their territory. These shrimp are nocturnal and prefer an aquarium with plenty of caves and ledges to hide in. During the molting process, these shrimp can occasionally hide for one to two days as their new shell hardens. These shrimp are very hardy and are suitable for most saltwater aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49117873897770,"sku":"SHRIMPxCoralBand","price":24.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-coral-banded-shrimp-1146288238.png?v=1770744546"},{"product_id":"red-leg-hermit-crab","title":"Red Leg Hermit Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003eRed Leg Hermit Crabs are popular additions to saltwater aquarium clean up crews due to their small size, bright red coloration, and constant scavenging behavior. These active hermit crabs help consume nuisance algae, detritus, leftover foods, and organic debris from live rock, sand, and hard-to-reach crevices. Their small size allows them to clean areas that larger snails and crabs may not be able to reach, making them useful additions to reef aquariums, nano tanks, and peaceful community systems. Red Leg Hermit Crabs are generally peaceful, but like most hermit crabs, they should be provided with extra empty shells to reduce competition with snails and other hermits.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Red Leg Hermit Crab \u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRed Leg Hermit Crabs (Clibanarius digueti) are small, hardy cleanup crew animals known for their red legs, active foraging behavior, and usefulness in controlling algae and detritus. Also commonly sold as Mexican Red Leg Hermit Crabs or Dwarf Red Tip Hermit Crabs, they are excellent beginner-friendly invertebrates for established saltwater aquariums. They spend much of their time moving across rockwork and sand, picking at algae, leftover food, and debris while helping keep the aquarium cleaner.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Hardy when kept in stable, established aquariums\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires live rock, sand, crevices, and extra empty shells\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRed Leg Hermit Crabs do best in established aquariums with plenty of live rock and surface area for grazing. They are active scavengers and may dig lightly through the sand while searching for food, which can help stir small areas of the substrate. Extra empty shells should always be available in a variety of sizes so they can move into larger shells as they grow.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRed Leg Hermit Crabs are omnivorous scavengers that feed on algae, detritus, leftover foods, and organic debris.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Omnivorous – Eats algae, detritus, leftover food, and small meaty foods\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eNaturally occurring algae on live rock and aquarium surfaces\u003cbr\u003eDetritus and leftover fish food\u003cbr\u003eAlgae wafers\u003cbr\u003eDried seaweed\u003cbr\u003eSmall meaty foods such as mysis shrimp or finely chopped seafood\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAlthough Red Leg Hermit Crabs will graze throughout the aquarium, they should not be expected to survive only on waste in overly clean systems. If natural algae and leftover food are limited, offer small supplemental feedings to keep them healthy.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 1-3+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate – Can grow up to about 1 inch\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRed Leg Hermit Crabs remain small, making them suitable for nano reefs and larger cleanup crew packs alike. Like other crustaceans, they molt as they grow and require stable water parameters to support healthy molting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful to Semi-Peaceful – Generally safe, but opportunistic around snails and other small invertebrates\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? Yes, with caution – Does not harm corals, but may climb on them or disturb loose frags while foraging\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRed Leg Hermit Crabs are generally reef safe and suitable for peaceful saltwater aquariums. However, they may compete with snails for shells if empty shells are not provided. Avoid keeping them with predatory fish or invertebrates such as triggers, puffers, hawkfish, large wrasses, large crabs, or other animals that may eat small hermit crabs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeeds Extra Shells: Provide multiple empty shells in different sizes to reduce aggression and prevent them from targeting snails for new shells.\u003cbr\u003eOpportunistic Feeding: While useful scavengers, they may investigate weakened snails, leftover foods, or other available food sources.\u003cbr\u003eCan Disturb Loose Frags: They may climb over coral plugs or loose frags while foraging.\u003cbr\u003eMay Compete With Snails: Hermit crabs and snails can be kept together, but shell availability helps reduce problems.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like all marine invertebrates, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003cbr\u003eMolting Sensitivity: Sudden changes in salinity, pH, or alkalinity can cause stress during molting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, acclimate them carefully, provide extra empty shells, avoid copper exposure, and keep them with peaceful, reef-safe tankmates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49118269669674,"sku":"CRABxRedLeg","price":2.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-red-leg-hermit-crab-1252671611.webp?v=1785791979"},{"product_id":"blue-leg-hermit-crab","title":"Blue Leg Hermit Crab","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Blue Leg Hermit Crabs also known as Tricolor Hermits or Dwarf Blue Legs are tiny powerhouses and used extensively in the marine aquarium hobby for control of nuisance algae including hair algae, diatoms and cyanobacteria. Blue Legs congregate in large numbers in the wild feeding upon many types of algae and do a wonderful job within a reef tank consuming algae as well as leftovers. Size per individual is roughly 1\/2″ – 1″ inch shell.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Blue Legged Hermit Crab (Algae Eater \u0026amp; Cleanup Crew Essential)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe blue legged hermit crab (Clibanarius tricolor) is a small but effective member of the aquarium cleanup crew, known for grazing on nuisance algae, detritus, and leftover food. Found in shallow reefs and seagrass beds, these crabs are highly adaptable and play a crucial role in keeping aquariums clean. With their bright blue legs and small size, these hermit crabs are an excellent choice for nano tanks and large reef systems alike.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Low-maintenance and beginner-friendly Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons Aquarium Setup: Requires rockwork, sand, and spare shells for growth Blue legged hermits spend most of their time foraging and are constantly in motion, helping to break down organic waste.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBlue legged hermit crabs are omnivorous scavengers, meaning they require a mix of algae and meaty foods for a balanced diet. Diet: Omnivorous – Prefers algae, detritus, and leftover food Recommended Foods: Hair algae, diatoms, and film algae Uneaten fish food and organic waste Algae wafers and sinking pellets (if food is scarce) Supplementing their diet with seaweed or meaty foods helps maintain their coloration and longevity.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 2-4 years Growth Rate: Slow – Typically reaches up to 1 inch As hermit crabs grow, they must molt and find larger shells to accommodate their size.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive – Can be territorial over shells Reef Safe? Yes – Safe for corals and fish but may target small snails for shells To prevent aggression, always provide a variety of empty shells to reduce competition among hermit crabs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eShell Stealing: May attack snails or other hermits if not provided with empty shells. May Dislodge Corals: Can accidentally knock over frags or small corals while foraging. Opportunistic Scavenger: If underfed, may pick at soft tissue or weakened tankmates. Providing ample food sources and extra shells ensures a peaceful and effective cleanup crew.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 74-80°F dKH (Alkalinity): 8-12 pH: 8.1-8.4 Specific Gravity: 1.024-1.026 Stable water conditions support healthy molting and long-term survival.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49118270521642,"sku":"CRABxBlueLeg","price":1.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-blue-leg-hermit-crab-1250940633.png?v=1784920840"},{"product_id":"astrea-snail","title":"Astrea Snail","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Astrea snail is one of the smaller, more commonly used algae eaters in the saltwater hobby. Astrea snails will help clean your glass of algae and will also feed on nuisance algae in the aquarium, including cyanobacteria and diatoms. These snails prefer environments with sufficient rock work for maneuvering around the aquarium, and unlike Trochus snails, generally cannot flip themselves over.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Astrea Snail (Algae Grazer \u0026amp; Cleanup Crew Essential)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAstrea snails (Astrea tecta) are hardy, reef-safe algae eaters that excel at removing film algae, diatoms, and biofilm from rocks and glass surfaces. These snails are efficient grazers, making them an essential part of any cleanup crew. While they are excellent at controlling algae, Astrea snails cannot right themselves if flipped over, which can lead to starvation or predation. It’s important to monitor them and assist if necessary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Low-maintenance but requires monitoring Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons Aquarium Setup: Requires live rock and glass surfaces for grazing Astrea snails thrive in established reef tanks with moderate algae growth, where they can continuously graze on surfaces.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAstrea snails are herbivorous grazers, feeding on a variety of nuisance algae. Diet: Herbivorous – Prefers diatoms, film algae, and biofilm Recommended Foods: Naturally occurring algae on rock and glass Diatoms and film algae Supplemental seaweed sheets if algae is scarce Astrea snails do not consume cyanobacteria or macroalgae and should only be added to established tanks with a steady algae supply.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 3-5 years Growth Rate: Slow – Typically reaches up to 1.5 inches With proper care and a stable food source, Astrea snails can thrive for several years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Does not interact with or harm tankmates Reef Safe? Yes – Does not harm corals, fish, or invertebrates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eFlipping Over: Astrea snails cannot right themselves if overturned, making them vulnerable to starvation and predation. Requires Algae to Thrive: May need supplemental feeding if algae levels are low. Slow Movers: Unlike some other snails, Astrea snails move at a slow pace, requiring patience in high-algae environments. To ensure their success, check regularly for overturned snails and maintain a stable environment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 74-80°F dKH (Alkalinity): 8-12 pH: 8.1-8.4 Specific Gravity: 1.024-1.026\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49118270914858,"sku":"SNAILxAstrea","price":2.49,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-astrea-snail-1250940635.png?v=1784920813"},{"product_id":"fighting-conch","title":"Fighting Conch","description":"\u003cspan data-mce-fragment=\"1\" style=\"font-weight: 400;\" data-mce-style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eFighting Conchs are great medium-sized sand sifters\/cleaners and make a wonderful addition to any large saltwater aquarium. Fighting Conchs will burrow and plow through sand, cleaning it as they go. They will stir and clean the top layers of your sand bed removing detritus, algae and other unwanted debris. Fighting Conchs, despite their name, are considered to be very reef safe and peaceful.\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49118305648938,"sku":"CONCHxFighting","price":20.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/top-shelf-aquatics-fighting-conch-1146279330.webp?v=1770317641"},{"product_id":"chestnut-snails","title":"Chestnut Snail","description":"\u003cp\u003eChestnut Snails are excellent additions to saltwater aquarium clean up crews due to their attractive rounded shells and constant appetite for nuisance algae. Chestnut Snails are active grazers that help control film algae, diatoms, hair algae, and algae growth on live rock and aquarium glass. Their manageable size makes them a versatile option for reef aquariums, while their peaceful nature allows them to be kept with a wide variety of fish, corals, and invertebrates. Chestnut Snails should be added to established aquariums with plenty of grazing surfaces and should not be housed with aggressive tankmates that may pick at or prey on snails.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eIntroduction to Chestnut Snail (Reliable Algae Grazer \u0026amp; Cleanup Crew Essential)\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChestnut Snails (Turbo castanea) are hardy, reef safe algae grazers known for their rounded shells, variable chestnut-brown coloration, and usefulness in controlling nuisance algae. They are often seen moving across rockwork and glass throughout the day and night, grazing as they go. While they are not usually as massive as oversized Zebra Turbo Snails, they are still strong, active snails that can help keep established reef aquariums cleaner and more balanced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCare Requirements\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCare Level: Easy – Hardy when kept in stable, established aquariums\u003cbr\u003eMinimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons\u003cbr\u003eAquarium Setup: Requires live rock, glass surfaces, and steady algae growth for grazing\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChestnut Snails do best in mature saltwater aquariums with stable water quality and plenty of natural algae. They should be acclimated carefully, as rapid changes in temperature or salinity can stress marine invertebrates. Like other snails, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eDiet \u0026amp; Nutrition\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChestnut Snails are herbivorous grazers that feed on a variety of nuisance algae.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDiet: Herbivorous – Prefers film algae, diatoms, hair algae, and soft algae growth\u003cbr\u003eRecommended Foods:\u003cbr\u003eNaturally occurring algae on live rock and aquarium glass\u003cbr\u003eHair algae and diatoms\u003cbr\u003eSupplemental dried seaweed or vegetable-based foods if natural algae becomes limited\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChestnut Snails are best suited for aquariums with an established algae source. If the tank becomes too clean, supplemental feeding may be needed to prevent starvation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eLifespan \u0026amp; Growth Rate\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLifespan: 1-3+ years with proper care\u003cbr\u003eGrowth Rate: Moderate – Can grow up to about 2 inches\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChestnut Snails remain a manageable size for most reef aquariums while still providing strong algae-grazing ability. Maintaining stable calcium and alkalinity levels will help support healthy shell growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eTemperament \u0026amp; Compatibility\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperament: Peaceful – Does not bother fish, corals, or other peaceful invertebrates\u003cbr\u003eReef Safe? Yes – Safe with corals, fish, and most invertebrates\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eChestnut Snails are excellent choices for reef tanks and peaceful community aquariums. Avoid keeping them with aggressive snail predators such as triggers, puffers, large wrasses, large hermit crabs, or other animals that may flip, harass, or eat them.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eCommon Challenges \u0026amp; Considerations\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeeds Established Algae Growth: Chestnut Snails should be added to tanks with enough natural algae to support grazing.\u003cbr\u003eMay Need Supplemental Feeding: If algae levels are low, offer dried seaweed or vegetable-based foods.\u003cbr\u003eCan Move Loose Frags: While generally manageable, they may still dislodge unsecured coral frags or lightweight plugs while grazing.\u003cbr\u003eFlipping Over: If they fall onto their backs, they may need assistance righting themselves.\u003cbr\u003eSensitive to Copper: Like most marine invertebrates, they should never be exposed to copper-based medications.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTo prevent issues, secure loose corals, maintain stable water conditions, and monitor the aquarium for signs of food shortages.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003eWater Conditions\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTemperature: 72-78°F\u003cbr\u003edKH Alkalinity: 8-12\u003cbr\u003epH: 8.1-8.4\u003cbr\u003eSpecific Gravity: 1.023-1.025\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49118470963498,"sku":"SNAILxChestnut","price":5.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/tsa-inverts-chestnut-snail-1250946498.png?v=1784928132"},{"product_id":"porcelain-crab","title":"Porcelain Crab","description":"\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003ePorcelain Crabs are among the more unique crustaceans commonly kept in reef aquariums. Unlike many other commonly kept crabs, Porcelain Crabs are primarily filter feeders and can often be seen waving their large, feathery setae around to capture particulate food out of the water column, making up the majority of their diet. These crabs will also scavenge for any pieces of meaty foods when given the opportunity. Due to their thin body shape, Porcelain Crabs will often wedge themselves in tiny holes and crevices in the rockwork for safety during the day. Porcelain Crabs are reef safe and pose no danger to corals.\u003c\/span\u003e","brand":"TSA Inverts","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49118473617706,"sku":"CRABxPorcelain","price":14.99,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/files\/porcelain-crab.webp?v=1791076184"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0783\/0873\/7322\/collections\/saltwater-inverts-for-sale.webp?v=1745951492","url":"https:\/\/topshelfaquatics.com\/collections\/saltwater-invertebrates.oembed?page=5","provider":"Top Shelf Aquatics","version":"1.0","type":"link"}